1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I just replaced both horns on my 98. I lot of dirt roads and mud can foul them up....went to parts store and spent about 40 and replaced both

I am not sure if the voltage regulator is built in the alternator on that car but check it, If it is built in the alternator you most likely have a short of some kind, you need to have a electrical check.

It's under the timing cover on the front of the engine. I have pasted autozone.com instructions to replace the water pump below.

3.0L & 3.5L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. If necessary, properly release the fuel pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable
   

CAUTION Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.

Upper radiator shroud Accessory belts Air conditioning compressor tensioner pulley, if equipped Cooling fan and clutch assembly and the water pump pulley Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines Water outlet, gasket and houses Radiator hoses from the water pump Crankshaft pulley(s) Timing belt covers. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark the direction of the timing belt's rotation, for installation in the same direction. Be sure the engine is positioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its compression stroke and the sprockets timing marks are aligned with the engine's timing mark indicators. Timing belt Water pump bolts are different lengths, note their positions before removing. Water pump from the block Water pipe connection and O-ring

To install:

1. Clean and dry the mating surfaces of the block and water pump
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   New O-ring on the water pipe connection, wet the new O-ring with water to aid in installation Water pump, with a new gasket, Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) on 3.0L and 3.5L engines Alternator bracket bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) Timing belt(s) and covers Crankshaft pulley(s) Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines. Torque the bolts to 12-14 ft. lbs. (17-20 Nm). Radiator hose to the water pump Water outlet, new gasket and houses. Torque the bolts to 12-14 ft. lbs. (17-20 Nm). Water pump pulley Cooling fan and clutch assembly Air conditioning compressor tensioner pulley, if equipped Accessory belts Upper radiator shroud Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines Negative battery cable
   
3. Refill the radiator with coolant. This cooling system has a self-bleeding thermostat, so system bleeding is not required.
4. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens and fill the overflow tank. Check for leaks.
5. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.

From what you describe you have perhaps two unrelated but easy and cheap to resolve issues: 1) where your vehicle wants to stall is due to an idle air control problem and 2) the tranny clunk is probably nothing more than low fluid level. 1) When a car is at idle the throttle plate is closed and a vacuum builds up due to engine suction in the inlet manifold. Without air your engine stalls. The idle air control (IAC) system can take two forms a) a solenoid operated valve sitting on a passageway around the throttle plate or b) a motorised gear mechanism that actually opens the throttle plate a tiny amount to allow air to bleed past it. IAC problems are also associated with sudden stall at start up when the AC is switched on or when you engage 'drive'. This is because the IAC is unable to make corrective adjustment to the amount of air required by the engine at these times. How to fix: Remove all the air ducting between the air cleaner and the throttle body, this is just to give you access. Using a cloth and WD40 or carb. choke cleaner spray clean the inside of the throttle body of all the black gunk. Clean the throttle plate out face, apply pressure to the top of the plate to turn it and then clean behind it, the edge of the throttle plate and the back of it the best you can. Check to see if there is a finger diameter sized passageway leading off the side of the throttle body interior just before and just after the throttle plate shut position. If there is such a passageway you will have the valve type control system (see above). The valve is held on to exterior of the throttle by a couple of bolts (10mm?). Disconnect the electrical connection to it and unbolt it. Clean the valve interior until like new paying special attention to the valve and valve seat. Clean the passageways on the IAC and on the throttle. Reassemble when spotless. If you do not find passageways on initial inspection then you have a motorised throttle opening system. Cleaning the throttle plate and interior will be enough. All this cleaning is to remove all obstruction to the small amount of air bleed. Refit everything taking car to make the air ducting connections properly. This should help solve the idle issues. If a problem persists check every 'vacuum' tube making connections with the inlet manifold or 'hissing' leaks whilst the engine is idling. 2) clunking in the transmission is usually due to low fluid. The transmission fluid dip stick is at the back of the engine. Only measure the fluid level when the engine is running (this pumps fluid to the torque converter and allows correct levels to be determined). You will need fluid of the correct type (consult with Mitsubishi). Add fluid at 500ml at a time via the dip stick tube to top up the transmission, check level between each top up. Once at correct maximum level refit the dip stick. All done

Hit the starter with a hammer while some one is trying to start it and if it starts up after this the starter is bad most likely if you already checked the battery contacts in it get stuck if theres is power down to it ...starter bad....

Press the button on the dashboard "A/T Mode" changeover switch, which switches the driving mode between Normal and Hold. From the Owner's Manual: "Select the "HOLD" mode when starting your vehicle on a road surface slippery from snow or the like, and the vehicle will start smoothly...other than "L" position, the vehicle starts in second gear." BTW, red brake light is probably the emergency brake light switch, which might just need cleaning or adjustment

Timing belts are supposed to be replaced in intervals, on this vehicle every 60,000 miles. The timing belt may look good, but they mostly stretch over time. As for the looseness and becoming tight, its because there is different compression tension that pull either way. But to be loose to the point you can spin the tensioner pulley, replace everything (belt, tensioner, idler pulley, water pump)!!

Replace the ignition switch...

But! If you are turning the key and you are not getting anything from the starter, then replace the starter.

Another words, if you are turning the key and there is NO noise at all coming from the starter, then replace the ignition switch.

If there is SOME noise/clicking or anything, replace the starter.

If you are going to put a used engine in the vehicle you will want to make sure that the engine is no more than one year before or after the date of your original engine so that you will not have to change very much from the old engine over to the engine that will be going into your vehicle. The auto industry changes their vehicles every year, and the more years that are between the original engine and the one that is going into the vehicle will often translate into how much has to be removed from the old engine and installed on the new engine for it to properly function in that vehicle, and especially to make the OBD-II system happy so that there is no check engine light on after installing the engine, and the difference can be from just having to change a sensor or two, to having to change all of the sensors, the fuel injectors, the oil pan, intake manifold and or throttle body, the exhaust manifolds and the valve covers. The most important thing is to be certain that all of the sensors that are on the old engine are exactly the same as on the engine that is going into the vehicle, and if any are different then swap them with the ones from the old engine. There should be no more or no less sensors than the original engine had on it and all of the sensors should be exactly like the original sensors or they should be the original sensors that are on the engine when the engine is installed into the vehicle.

There are a few things to check for when purchasing a used engine, and check the tune-up parts to see how well the engine was maintained, and check the spark plugs to see how each spark plug was burning and that gives you an idea how well that cylinder was functioning, and what you are looking for will be uniformity among the spark plugs, and optimally there should only be a light tan color to the spark plugs, and any spark plug that is not or is fouled out with carbon or oil fouled was not burning properly and that cylinder will have had some kind of either mechanical, electrical, or a fuel related problem with it. Also remove the oil filter if it has one and pour it into a container or a drain pan so that you can look for any fine brass clouds in the oil, or for any metal shavings.

If you are purchasing a new or a rebuilt engine then it will not matter because you will have to change over all of the sensors to the new engine, along with the intake manifold, the valve covers, any exhaust manifolds and usually the oil pan.

assuming you have a 3.0 v6, follow the top hose from your radiator until you can see where it connects on the other end. That is your thermostat housing. Make sure you do this while engine is cool.

Either an alternator or a really bad battery. You used to test an alternator by unhooking the battery while the car is running, but have seen two instances where the batter was so dead that it caused the same problem. Try and put a charger on the battery and see if it takes a charge, else it is the alternator most likely

check the owners man sometimes people write the code on the inside cover if not the vin number should work at the dealer for the code

test to make shore you ignition coil is working" unplug any plug wire and then try starting it...you should her the ticking from the ark of electrisity from the coil to the engine block its self... first: be shore youve connected the spark plug wires in to the right slots on the ignition coil second: make shore the wiring harness just upstream from the air filter is connected"without it my montero want start" third:make shore all harmesses are connected and tight.... forth: now turn the car on..but dont start it.. and see if the check engine light goes off.... fifth:try giving it a lil bet of gas when trying to start..... thats all i can think of, srry for spelling...hope it helps

If your engine is producing white smoke this is anti-freeze making its way in to the cylinders. I highly recommend NOT running it until corrected. Have a compression check run to find where problem is and correct. Hopefully just blown head gasket, possible though cracked, warped head. If you feel a confident mechanic you can do this on your own, otherwise you'll need to take it to a shop for repais : (

Sorry, wish I had better news,
Tom

Sounds like you might have a loose are worn fan belt. Specially if this is a V belt. With the hood up have someone turn the air conditioner on and watched the compressor clutch if it stops turning you might have a bad compressor. If it keeps turning in the squealing just goes away, you might just have a loose belt. Good luck.

napa carries some of them and snap on has a socket for removing most of the tire shops can order the different keys

i thing you kill the end of crankshaft(happen to my)if the pulley vibrating nothing can hold tied the bolt.you can try looking paste only if you can tie the bolt as much mitsubishi recommend

45 foot lbs

I just changed my starter recently, when you look at the starter its in a very tight spot. Loosen the transmission lines running right under the starter. As your laying under your suv you will see 2 lines running right under your starter, just follow the 2 lines toward the engine and you will see a small bracket that holds them together. Losen the screw and wala you now have several inches of play now that u you can move the lines out of the way, this will grant you ease in getting the starter in and out. This was my first time changing my starter and i had the car for 11 years ^_^ I changed it in 2-3hrs remember to disconect your battery also before you begin ^_^

Check all the cable connections and battery terminals