Lincoln Town Car - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4
1998 lincoln towncar, wont crank,
turn on head lights have some one try and start car if the lights do not go dim then the starter is not drawing any power take starter out replace or rebuild can take starer out and hook to the battery its a 98 should have put 3 or 4 starter in by now I have
Brake light wont light up when brake pedal is pressed
Sounds like a brake lamp switch or fuse.
Check all fuses electrically, with a test probe you can purchase from any auto parts store. Go through each fuse with the probe touching the end or tip of the fuse after clipping the lead on the probe to a good ground. If the probe lights up at both ends of the fuse, the fuse is sound, if it only lights up at one end then replace that fuse and if the probe does not light up at all, that fuse is not active so turn on the ignition but dont start the motor.
The brake lamp switch is attached to the brake pedal. It may have a single wire or several. All the switch does is connect the brake lamp circuit to an active supply rail so, The switch should have one active wire and the other wire should become active when the pedal is pressed. If it does not, replace the switch. If it does, then you may have two blown bulbs in the rear lamps or a damaged wiring harness to the rear lamps and you should seek the advice of a qualified person. Start with the fuses, then the switch, then the bulbs..and remember, you may have more then one fuse panel in the vehicle so check under the hood too..
93 Lincoln Town Car was stolen, this left behind...any idea of what/how????
This a "valet Key" I thought Lincoln had stopped using the things. It's a plastic key attached to a plastic card. When you want to let a valet park your key, you supposedly punch out the plastic key and it's supposed to be good for one (1) parking assignment; there after the key degrades with use and becomes worthless. The reason Ford stopped issuing them is evidenced by the loss of your car.
Brake lights and turn signals
I had this same problem on a 1995 Lincoln Towncar -- thought I might have to replace the Signal Switch - then it was suggested to check the ground for this wiring. However I was told to check the HAZARD SWITCH. The Hazard Switch was not On or Off it was stuck in the middle. Simply pushing it up and down correct the problem. I was also told that maybe a little WD40 on the HAZARD SWITCH might help.
This is an easy try me first fix. It worked for me and cost 0.
94 Lincoln TC engine stalls when slowing/stopping
Most common cause of stalling for Lincolns in that era is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It regulates fuel mixture, idle speed etc. A bad TPS will usually act up in one of two ways:
- When cold, car continually stalls
- When warm, car stalls when slowing down (especially if AC is on)
As far as valve cover oil leak, it's a problem that should be addressed to keep oil from fouling your spark plugs but highly unlikely to be the cause of your stalling problem. Hope this answers your question. All the best.
Greg
2001 licoln town car engine stall while driving
"2001 lincoln town car
Engine stall while driving". In the trunk compartment, leftside trunk hood door, on the hinge base, there is a fuel pump circuit breaker; check if popped out upward. If yes, push back in. If this doesn't work, than check electrical connections. Usually, a tare in wire fibers is the cause
1997 Lincoln Towncar. Shifter stuck in park
There is a switch mounted on the arm of the brake pedal (under a plastic cover held on with 3 plastic push-pins). There is an electical connection attached to this switch. In my case one of the wires had broken and was not supplying electricity to the switch. By fixing the broken wire it allowed the shifter to properly move and got the brake lights working again.
AIR SUSPENSION PROBLEMS FOR 2000 LINCOLN TOWNCAR CARTIER
I have serviced these in the past and it will probably be a combination of things. I just a few weeks ago fixed a 1999 with the same problems. Generally from past repairs, the electric pump has been working overtime to compensate for leaking rear air shocks. The best solution is to replace them both, not a cheap repair, the pump around 275.00 and each shock arount 275.00.
Just with every thing over time things fail, the rear shocks develop leaks over time/weather cracks, they are easy to check, soapy water will identify this as the problem. If you can get under it enough to spray around the bottom of the shocks when they are inflated. These systems are computer controlled and if you have the proper scanner you can check the system out for eletrical problems easily. My past experiences with these suspensions as almost always the shocks and pump.
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