Haier Heating & Cooling - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

there is no fuse. the manual talks about your homes power either breakers of fused. if you have breakers follow manual and call for service. page 13 https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/210565-1.pdf

Have you checked the troubleshooting section of the owner's manual? If you do not have the original it can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.

install a permanent drain

clean and check filter and coils if clean check fan speed last could be a freon problem but usually dirty filter or coils is culprit

Press the "Extra Function" button once and then the "Power" button right after to switch between °C and °F. If that doesn't work, try pressing both buttons simultaneously and releasing both buttons immediately to switch between °C and °F.

If your unit is the one that has a heater option too, then the problem is that it needs to be drained. For whatever reason, when using the heater option, it creates condensation and will shut the heating element of in til you drain the water out of the small port on the bottom in the back. See picture. Once the water is drained, it will throw heat again. But it won’t be long before you have to drain it again. Your best bet is to raise it up enough to put a drain pan under the drain. Ease of simplicity. You’ll be doing it a lot when heating a room with it.

fixya is not your maintenance company

in the base of the unit and goes out through the wall with the other pipes and wires it is not visible from inside

Try washing out condencer coil.

Open battery compartment. Use a paper clip to press the little button marked "CLK". Set hours and minutes with buttons on front. Press button again with paperclip to save the settings.

Your Model number matches a GE room air conditioner. You may look it up for yourself on the "SearsPartsDirect" website. When you do, you will see a phone number to call for help. I would call them, because I did not see the possibility of ordering an owner's manual. God bless your efforts.

it does not

need a meter to check power source --circuit wiring and compressor

when the heat ambient temps go up . the start capacitor gets hot to turn on fan and heat sensor for the compressor senses it and turns off . check the run/start cap first

I had the same problem. I found the micro-switch for the water level was faulty. This switch had a high fluctuating resistance. I was able to correct the problem by spraying some contact cleaner ( or use TV tuner cleaner, alcohol might even work) into the switch. The resistance then dropped to 0.6 ohms. The only place I saw to get the cleaner inside, was around the depress-pin itself. It obviously got inside. If facing the unit, this micro-switch is located on the left lower inside, you can't miss it. You can see where the water float level lever mechanism depresses this switch. Getting the cover off was aggravating, but wasn't too bad. Remove the front cover's 2 bottom screws and lift up and off the front. Remove the left side 3 screws and the rear panel 4 screws and this gave me enough play to prop up the left side panel to get to the switch. The switch removes super easy. For troubleshooting purposes, you could jumper the 2 wires together, that are connected to the switch, as the switch is used in a 'normally closed' application. Essentially bypassing the switch. The unit should then power up and function correctly ( Temporarily ) Hope this helps.

need a meter to test circuit -switches compressors and fans