Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

this normally a transducer fault in your main board,board will need replacing

what reason do you have to remove the whole top, or did you mean the lid ?

you may have tripped the board circuit, have you tried to reset it? read ur manual and it should show you how to reset it or try unplugging it for few minutes and plug back in.. WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (orreplace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one,the switch MAY BE BADand will need to be replaced.Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switchmay need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/

Hi just read your posting.Error Code 131 is called REPETITIVE ROTOR POSITION SENSOR ERROR..The 3 reasons this fault is appearing is 1--the wiring to the rotor sensor is faulty.--2--the rotor sensor is faulty.--3-- the motor controller is faulty.If you have or can borrow an electrical test meter I can help you test the wiring but to test the rotor sensor you need a tester called RPS tester.Please reply on how you would like to proceed an I will help you as much as I can.

Hi,

code 43 is an out of balance switch problem.Once replaced, would fix the issue.

One trick that might work ;-

I unscrewed top cover, then unscrewed and lifted up the grey computer cover. The balance switch is underneath on the right with a yellow and white wire coming off.

I removed switch from clip and then removed the wires/clips from contacts. There was definitely corrosion on the contacts. I soaked switch overnight in vinegar. Then rinsed with water. Then dried switch out for day.

Put it all back together and am now on second load of washing.

Thanks.

More info needed. What is the model number? Is it a top or front load machine? What is the error code displayed when it beeps? If it is a top load machine then while it is beeping take note of which lights are on and which are off along the top row of 8 lights. Count from left to right and note the number of the lights that are on.

Change out out of balance switch which is under the control module

RPS sensor fault. You have to remove the rotor bowl then loosen the 4 bolts holding the copper stator so you can pull it down far enough to take off the RPS sensor. Look for corrosion on the wiring plug if it has a plug. Some are hard wired all the way back up to the control board. If no plug corrosion it will probably have to be replaced but really needs testing with a special RPS testerv to make sure it is faulty.

Hello, Keith - I suggest you contact Fisher and Paykel Customer Care and ask your question directly. I have no idea the country where your washer was manufactured. Therefore, following are the links for country of manufacture: USA: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/us/ Choose "Help & Support" Canada: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/ca/ Choose "Help & Support" New Zealand: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/nz.html Choose "Support" Australia: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/au.html Choose "Support" Fixya receives questions from people worldwide. I am answering from the USA. Best wishes.

Each light has a specific number, so to work out the error code we need to know which side you are counting from i.e. left to right or right to left. Makes a huge difference.

This is error code 40. 40. (00101000) Basket Dis-engage Fault While carrying out a basket check, the Motor Control Module has found that the basket is not engaged even though the pressure sensor indicates that the basket is empty. The Motor Control Module continues to check for 2 minutes, after which time it displays this fault. The first two areas to check are the clutch and the pressure tube. If these two appear correct, then the fault could be in the pressure sensor in the Motor Control Module. Primary Source: Mechanical. Action: 1) Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can stop the basket rotating. 2) If the machine is empty of water, carry out a clutch disassembly procedure and check the spline drive. 3) Next check that the pressure tube has not come off and that it is not kinked. Secondary Source: Motor Control Module. Action: Replace Motor Control Module.

What appliance is it?

http://electrotechnician.blogspot.com/ https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ http://homenol.blogspot.com/ Please visit these sites to get some details.

If you cannot see the water leaking from the inlet valves, check the seal just above the water pump located directly under the drum. I am in the midst of awaiting parts to fix this very thing on my FP GWL11. This leak is dripping water directly onto the motor, causing it to trip the circuit breaker during drain/spin cycles.

Note... I have also had to have the inlet valve assembly replaced as well as it was not opening to allow cold water to mix with the hot.

Hope this helps.

that is a sizing problem ,if neither board has been replaced recently,then faulty board

if its a top loader then a faulty motor controller.(computer main board )

That means that power is being applied to the drain pump when it shouldn't be. There is only one reason for that, a fault in the main control board. You will have to replace the main board.

would need more info

each element switch controls the heat to that element so those switches need to be replaced ,technical name is simmerstat