Question about Sub-Zero Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Hello, the coils in the back of the refrigerator keep freezing up. we have had both compressors replaced. also, the switches on top of inside door were not being pressed so had this addressed. what can cause the coils to freeze? i let it defrost for a few hours and then works fine for a few days. any thoughts?
WOW. I DISCOVERED THIS WELL. I HAD PROBLEMS FOR YEARS WITH THE DRAIN SYSTEM FREEZING UP. I DID THIS ALL WITHOUT PULLING THE FRIDGE AWAY FROM THE WALL. I DISCONNECTED THE DOWNSPOUT AND SNAKED/WRIGGLED A FLEXIBLE WIRE DOWN THE DRAIN AS FAR AS POSSIBLE. I THEN REPLACED THE DRAIN BRINGING THE WIRE UP THROUGH THE DRAIN AND BEHIND THE RUBBER SEAL SO IT IS IN THE UPPER PART OF THE FRIDGE(ABOVE THE CRISPER) AND TAPED IT TO THE BACK WALL. THERE IS ENOUGH HEAT CONDUCTION TO PREVENT FREEZING. IT'S BEEN OVER A YEAR AND NO FREEZE UP.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
I had same problem very recently. The problem with both the refrigerator and freezer on the 550 is that the drain line that takes condensation and water from the defrost cycle to the drain pan freezes up. Sub Zero parts suppliers will sell you a fix-it kit which I used for the refrigerator. The kit is simply a heater wire that you plug into one of the existing circuits and runs down the length of the drain pipe to keep it from freezing up. When my freezer started doing the same thing I ordered the kit for the freezer but the wire was too fat for the drain pipe so a Sub Zero rep gave me a better and more elegant solution. You need a length of bare 12 guage copper wire, about 24 inches. Run it through the drain pipe with about 6 inches exposed at each end. On the underside of the fridge, wrap the end of the copper wire a few times around the black heater coil that you will see running back and forth. At the upper end, wrap the copper wire around the black heater coil that defrosts the freezer coil. The heat generated by the two coil will simply conduct heat through the copper wire and keep your drain line from freezing up. There is a 90 degree bend in the drain line which makes it difficult to feed the copper wire through. I suggest using guitar string or picture hanging wire as a snake. Feed that through first, then us it to pull the copper wire through. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
donna, the model posted probably has a adaptive defrost board. You definitely have a defrost problem. I hate changing these out. They can be a challenge. It's located on the right side in back on the refer controls. You have to remove the control panel. There are 2 slots in back where you can get a finger in. Pull down on these tabs and pull out at the same time. The control panel housing will pull off. This can be a real bear to do as I always fight with them. Next you would remove the light fixture screw on the right side. A little farther back will be another screw holding the right side of the upper panel. Then there will be one on the back wall next to the filter holding the upper panel there. Now the right side of the upper panel will drop down enough to get at the adaptive defrost board. You should do a test on it by shorting between L1 and test that are marked on the board. When you do this the refer will go into defrost for approx 23 minutes. If you short between the 2 and it jumps right back out of defrost, then you can assume the board is bad. I really believe that this is your problem as I have had many of them in the past. The heater and bi-metal on the evaporator usually never fail. But to be sure, you can do the test I described above. Now some models do have a mechanical defrost timer, but on the msd2758gew it should be adaptive. You can get an idea of how this board looks by going to repairclinic.com, entering your model number and following the links to get the part you need. Catriver
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
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