Hi,
With refrigeration pressures that will vary greatly with the temperature.
When downn to proper cool temperatures the low will be around 10-15 and the high side 150 or so
This "problem" may not be a problem at all. When you open the door of a cold space you admit warm air. The colder the space is before you open the door the more quickly the warm air you admitted by opening the door shrinks (contracts) as it meets the cold surfaces. This effect causes a short term vacuum in the space. The vacuum prevents the door opening until the internal and external pressures equalize again. This can take several seconds. There is a drain for draining defrost water from the compartment that has a water "trap" in it which is intended to minimize the effect. In some models a gurgling sound can be heard when door is closed as the vacuum tries to **** the water trap back into the compartment.
If you haven't noticed this happening in the past there can be several reasons.
Possibly you just never noticed the effect before.
If your refrigerator has less stored in it than usual the air exchange when you open the door can be larger than normal and the volume of warm air admitted may take longer to "shrink".
The thermostat for the compartment has been turned down without your knowledge or has failed making the compartment colder than usual.Take temperatures. Refrigerators should be 36-42 degrees while freezers should normally be close to zero.
The drain for that compartment is clogged and needs to be cleared. A turkey baster with hot water can usually clear the drain.
Except for a faulty control and the clogged drain the other issues are no "problem" and merely a function of the "tightness" of the insulation of the refrigerator
There will be two switches per compartment, one is the fan switch, the other is for the lights... Remove the top compartment vent panel, the switches will be accessed from above... remove the wires and push them down into the fridge... you can test them by setting a meter to "continuity" test and pressing the paddle of the switch to see if it lets current through.
SUB-ZERO machines are more serial number dependent when ordering parts... http://www.midwestdistributing.com/Store/OpenPages/ManualPage.aspx?PageTitle=MANUALS
Thee is a plastic cam at the bottom hinge of the door. Mine cracked and I bought a new one online for like $30 (for a piece of plastic). Got a strong friend to lift the door off the hinges while I replaced it. make sure you get the right one for left or right doors.
7014663 Sub Zero Refrigerator Bottom Cabinet Hinge Cam LH (7014663) (7014663) - Genuine Refrigerator Parts
this subzero had the same error code. when i tested defrost components find out that defrost thermostat is bad, so i replaced it, and it does work just fine now.
When my repair tech came out, he showed me that the fill tube sometimes retracts toward the rear of the freezer. He simply pulled it forward with a pair of needle nose pliers until it rested in the delivery reservoir. This placement allows the detector to know when the tray is full and shut off; thus not overfilling the freezing tray and/or splashing additional water onto the freezer wall and into the ice cube drawer.
I have subzero 642 but it should be the same. Remove 2 screws on the top edge of the door. The screws attach a metal track to the top of the door and the track needs to be loosened to allow the front wood panel to slide out. Next on the side edge of the door are 3 metal strips. The middle one is held in place simply by magnets and slots at the top and bottom edges of the door. You can remove the middle strip by lifting it out in the middle with a small screwdriver and pulling it off. This will expose 3 or 4 screws that hold a metal track to the side edge of the door. Remove these screws and the metallic track on the side edge of the door. You can then slide the wood door panel out enough to expose the 2 screws that the door handle attaches to. Good luck!
posible termistor en cortocircuito en el evaporador refrigerador o el cableado del termistor. el corto es m?s que probable que en el conector del termistor. el trabajo debe ser realizado por un profesional capacitado.
Usually the problem is not with the dirty condenser. Most likely there is freon leak at evap coils on fresh food side. You can charge it with freon to proper pressures, but it will leak out; or replacing evaporator - thats most common place where freon leaks out. Here is my video how i do it. Thanks.
