Those are usually hermetically sealed. You will damage the housing if you try to replace it..
SOURCE: My Bose Quiet Comfort Headphone Cord
Go to
http://www.bose.com/controller?url=/shop_online/headphones/noise_cancelling_headphones/accessories/qc3_replacement_audio_cable_acc.jsp
It even comes with free shipping
SOURCE: Bose desktop speakers stopped working suddenly
Make sure that the power is plugged into both the wall or strip and the back of the speaker.
SOURCE: How can I fix false contact on my Bose QC3
You will need to remove the pad that fits to your ear. Also the foam, you might have to force the foam off, you can glue it back when done. With them gone you should see access screws.
SOURCE: I have lost sound in the left earcup of my Bose
The solution to this problem is not for the faint hearted. You will break your headset, you will void your warranty,
and you quite likely will end up with a non-working headset. You will
also have to solder very small electrical components.
I also had the left channel audio not working, so the first thing to do was to take apart the headset.
Step 1. Remove the battery. Remove the two tiny screws from under the
u-shaped plastic piece that holds the earpiece to the headset. You will
have to pop out the end furthest from the audio jack. A #0 phillips is
needed. Put the tiny screws in a safe place.
Step 2, Break the silver cover free from the black plastic earpiece by
sliding a flat blade screw driver down between the joint towards the
bottom of the earpiece. Be very careful not to insert the screwdriver
blade too far into the earpiece because the circuit board is just
inside. For some reason Bose decided to glue the two attachments for
the bottom of the silver cover to the earpiece.
Step 3. Unscrew the 3 screws holding down the circuit board and put
them in a safe place. Gently pull up the circuit board about .5cm.
Look at the audio jack, the tab on the circuit board on the bottom right
is the left channel audio. You can try to reflow the solder at this
point on that tab using a 25W iron. It didn't work for me, but if your
connector is not as bad a mine, it might work.
Step 4. Remove the solder from the 4 tabs holding the audio jack to the
circuit board. Remove the audio jack from the circuit board (this is
hard and accompanied by much cursing). Try not to overheat the board
and lift the lands. Use a pliers to pull out the contact for the left
audio channel and bend the jack contact out 1mm or so. Insert it back
into the audio jack. Get your audio cord, plug it into the jack and
check and see if you have continuity with an ohmmeter. If it all checks
out, continue on.
Step 5. Resolder the audio jack back into the circuit board (also
accompanied by much cursing). Screw the circuit board down. Put the
battery back in and see if everything still works. If it doesn't, check
to see if you broke the fine wires just above the audio jack on the
circuit board. They run to the other earpiece through the headset.
Step 6. Reassemble everything and see if it still works. If it does,
then congratulations and enjoy your restored audio. If not, open it
back up and look for broken wires.
Disclaimer: This solution will likely destroy your headset. Proceed
only if you have experience working with modern surface mount parts. I
am an electrical engineer with 30 years experience in troubleshooting
and repairing electronics and it still was not an easy fix. Total time
to repair was about 4 hours.
SOURCE: Bose TP-1A Headphone replacement parts
Broke headphoneTP1 need just the part that the head phones are held together with
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