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First do a quick wipe of the appliance with a gentle liquid dish detergent & water mix, dry with a clean towel. After washing you’ll likely see the smudges and marks still hanging in there. You can buff out each smudge with a lint-free towel and some pressure, but try one of these items instead to bring back the shine and quickly remove those pesky fingerprints and smudges:
Olive Oil (just a dab will do)
Mineral Oil (Baby Oil)–Just a dab will do
Club Soda (especially good for removing streaks and heat stains)
Rubbing Alcohol
Vinegar (great for polishing too)
Apply directly to a lint-free cloth and wipe down surface, follow up with a clean dry cloth to bring appliance to a mark-free shine.
Avoid using cleaners or cleaning tools that are abrasive since they can mar the surface (even some soft-scrubbing creams can cause damage).
When cleaning the surface, wipe down the appliances along the grain of the stainless steel for best results.
Don’t clean stainless steel with bleach (diluted or otherwise), this can damage the finish.
Don’t forget to open the refrigerator or oven door, you’ll likely see a mess of smudges along the edge of the door.
For my Frigidaire manufactured Kenmore dryer, the stainless steel drum is part ordinary painted steel (front flange). That flange is part of the suspension for the drum. The flange rides on a nylon wear pad above the door. On both sides of the pad, there is a felt that is glued to the dryer front panel to act as a seal. What happens is that the paint on the ordinary steel flange rubs through and rusts, staining clothes during the drying cycle. I have to replace the nylon pad and felts every few years to combat the rusting issue. The felt and nylong pad assembly is glued to the cabinet flange using heat resistant adhesive.
ok, from the sound of things you're not going to like me any better when i get done than you did previously.. :) if you can move the clothes tub/basket (stainless steel with lots of holes in it) not only around in a circle, but forward and backwards, and i assume diagonally kinda/sorta also within the constrains of the outer plastic tub/shell u gots big problems!! within the plastic outer shell that keeps the water in containment, and houses/contains the bearing and seal assembly, would normally rotate a 3 armed spindle to which that stainless clothes basket is attached, those attachment points were prone to fail!!! especially if you live where you have acidic water which attacks the pot metal spindle assembly within 2 or 3 years, sometimes a little longer but usually just out of "warranty" unfortunately. now be warned or happy depending on how your warranty is worded that some of those "electrolux/frigidaire" manufactured kenmore appliances came with a 10 year "part" warranty on that same stainless steel clothes basket, and if that has defected and destroyed the bearings within that rear tub half then sears in their infinite wisdom should and will "when pressured" replace them both as one led to the destruction of the other. the labor to change them would fall on your shoulders and i'm not sure what they are charging for that level of repair now. if u had to buy those parts you are talking about approximately $170 for the rear tub half w/bearing, and $200 for the inner stainles steel basket.. if you've never changed one of these before plan on around 5 hours, 2 bandaids, and lots of patience as the bolts that hold the tub together are only available from the front yet you'll be doing most of your wiggling from the rear.. save the foam blocks that the tub half come with for shims/spacers to hold the front tub half up with once u remove the shocks and springs ;) have fun, and best of luck to ya..
What is the answer for dingy clothes? I have the same problems and I'm getting ready to get rid of this washer because I'm tired of not getting clean clothes and having my towels smelly after taking them out of the washer.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I CALLED THE 800 NUMBER AND HAD WHIRLPOOL SEND ME ALL OF THE PARTS THAT WERE STILL UNDER THE EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT I PURCHASED. WHIRLPOOL SENT ME EVERY PART, INCLUDING THE STAINLESS TUB, THAT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. I NOW HAVE REPLACED ALL INTERNAL PARTS EXCLUDING THE MOTOR.
I was waiting with someone with more experience to post back on your issue. I haven't experienced this issue it but I would not rule out a transmission seal failure causing your oily grey substance in the wash tub.If you want to investigate further you can get the Service Manual from here http://www.fixya.com/support/r1655507-found_service_manual_neptune_top_load take a look at page 38 and on and see if you feel OK with a tear down to the transmission.
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CALYPSO WASHER
Model: GVW9959K
Serial Code Date: Prior to CP44
GRAY MARKS OR SMUDGES ON CLOTHING
L8178406
October 2003
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Gray marks, streaks or smudges on clothing after a wash
cycle.
CONDITION:
CAUSE:
At the end of the cycle, the wash plate nutates for
approximately 30 seconds to fluff the clothing after the
final spin. The action of fluffing causes the outer wash
plate seal to rub against the stainless steel basket while
they are both relatively dry. This condition causes the gray
discoloration.
RESOLUTION:
An updated machine control, part number 8542693, is
now available. The updated control reduces the fluff time
from 30 seconds to 8 seconds, allowing the clothing to be
fluffed, without causing discoloration.
Gray marks or smudges can be washed out of clothing
after wiping down the basket. The consumer should use
the recommended amount of HE detergent and the hottest
water safe for the fabric or hand wash the garment under
running water. In either case, the fabric must be cleaned
prior to running through the dryer.
What actually will happen over time is the stainless steel retianing hub and nut diseningrate and the tub becomes loose. Then the spin cycle will destroy the top balancing ring. When this happens - the washer is junk - not worth repairing.
Before that thou - other mechanical problems can happen, like u-joint breakage. These washers are absolute junk.
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