20 Most Recent Kenmore 43042 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

I had the same problem and I changed the door switch and is running like new.

It sounds like the bearings are going bad. Try spinning the drum with your hand while it is empty. It should spin nice and smooth. If the rotation feels a little rough and noisy, you might have a problem. You can double check by taking the drive belt off and try shaking the pulley. If there is "play" when shaking the pulley, the bearings are most likely toast. The inner stainless drum rides on two bearings which sit in the rear of the outer plastic drum. The whole plastic drum and bearings come as one piece and go for $150. It would cost about the price of a new maching to have someone come out and repair it for you. It sounds like kenmore has had a bearing problem which is pretty rediculous considering how much these things cost. Sears said, "those tend to go in a few years", which is criminal especially since the warrenty is usually conveniently exopired by the time this problem happens. If you are handy, have a spare day, and can remember how to put a washing machine back together, go for it. I did it and it was not a fun time. There is a lot of sharp metal edges in the machine so wear gloves. good luck

My kenwood 43042 front load wash machine will not spin out and the motor smell like it burning. I just installed a new motor

hi, this is a typical symtom of one or two things.. one is that the motor you have sourced is faulty 2 is that you drive belt is slipping you need to check the tension on the drive belt if that ok and you confirm its not slipping then its the motor thats at fault.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4AeUy1V6VgI hope this helps you.

likely the lid switch is bad - if not the ECU/timer is.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

This will be one of 2 things, either the drum has separated from the rear mount (new drum needed) or your bearings are failing (new bearings needed)

timer needs replacement if it works perfect on one cycle and not on the other

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. You need to make sure your fuse did not blow in the washer. Make sure it is on the correct setting also. Push and hold in the start button and see if it comes on. You want to make sure the washer is getting power. You should check the outlet to be sure. With Kenmore, you may have a bad lid switch. They can get bent and not work right. It may be defective.

Hi, as a frontload style washer. You probably have soap buildup underneath the detergent tray, where the soapy water enters the hose that goes to the tub. Try to remove the soap tray and clean the buildup.

Hi, your washing machine tub has an agitator that rotates in a back-and-forth motion during the washing cycle to aid the movement of water and soap through your clothes. When you start a wash cycle, the water pump sends water into the wash tub, where it splashes around when the agitator activates. When the agitator in your washing machine does not rotate, one of the moving components that controls it, or the sensors that tell it to activate, may be faulty. Some agitator problems may require that you call a certified washer...

Unplug the washer from the wall and turn off the water supply to the washer. The washer water supply comes from a spout on the wall. Turn the handle counterclockwise to shut it.
Remove the two bottom screws from the control panel of the washing machine. Slide a putty knife under the control console to release the tabs that hold the control console down, and push it back. Unplug the wire for the console from its plastic tab. Pull the front of the machine forward to remove the washer cabinet. Check your owner's manual for removal instructions if your machine has a different style of cabinet.
Find the motor at the bottom of the machine. Unplug any hoses that keep you from lifting the motor by pinching their clip or clips with a pair of pliers. Slide off the hose from the pump port. Pry up the clips that hold the pump housing and remove the pump to expose the motor. Remove the bolts holding the motor down using a wrench and pull up the motor. Inspect the plastic disks on the back of the motor for damage. These disks transfer power from the transmission. Remove the bolt or bolts holding them in place and replace them if necessary.
Check the belt of the motor if you see it has one. Such a motor is a direct drive motor that does not have disks on the back. Instead, the belt powers the agitator. Inspect the belt for cracks. Push it down in the middle. It should give only 1/2 inch. Replace it if necessary.

The streaks on clothes are usually caused by fabric softener not being diluted completely due the high-efficiency of the machine which uses very minimal amount of water. One way to avoid such problem is not using fabric softener at all. If cant avoid using fabric softener, put it a small plastic bowl and place it inside the drum prior to the final rinse cycle.

If your motor does not run after the washer fills, then your failure is in the water level pressure switch, the timer, the drive motor or the wiring harness. The pressure switch would be the first component that I recommend checking. With the washer filled to satisfy the pressure switch, you can disconnect electrical power and pull the tan and violet wires off of the pressure switch. With a volt/ohm meter, measure the resistance across the leads of the pressure switch where the tan and violet wires were connected. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance with the washer full of water. If not, then your pressure switch would need to be replaced.