20 Most Recent LG LRFD25850 French Door Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

We solved this problem by replacing the plastic parts on the top & bottom of the door that 'latch' the door closed.

On the top of each door is a white plastic 'cam' that latches into a receiver at the center point of the refrigerator chamber. One of mine was broken.
Additionally, on the bottom edge of each door is a white plastic hook-shaped 'stopper' that provides spring tension. I replaced both of those and now all is happy.

Got the parts from RepairClinic.com
Item #: 1266811
Description: Door hinge cam (left)
Price: $2.40
Item #: 1266810
Description: Door hinge cam (right)
Price: $2.40
Item #: 1267543
Description: Stopper,door
Price: $2.40

George,
The short answer to your question is no. It sounds like you are having the same problem I had almost 1 year ago. The defrost controller in your fridge has gone bad. I have an LFC25760 and had ice buildup in the bottom of the freezer such that water would start leaking onto the floor. The ice buildup in the bottom of the freezer was due to a failing/bad defrost controller. Behind the back white wall in the freezer compartment exists the cooling fins along with a heating element underneath. Due to moisture that comes into the freezer from opening it, frost/ice builds up on the cooling fins. Thus the defrost controller turns on the heating element to melt the ice/frost off of the fins which then drips into a metal pan which channels the water to a drain hole which drops into the drip pan underneath the fridge next to the fan. The problem is that the defrost controller doesn't keep the heating element on long enough or the cooling cycle comes on too soon thereby freezing the water and plugging up the drain, which then causes the melted ice on subsequent defrost cycles to overflow the drip pan and flow into the bottom of the freezer and then eventually onto the floor when the bottom is full of ice. I had my defrost controller replaced (just outside the warranty period!) and it worked for about 1-month and then same thing happened again. Instead of paying for another defrost controller that would probably not work 100% my serviceman used the old paper-clip trick. He took a paper clip, stretched it out and then wrapped one end around the heating element and placed the other end into the drain hole. Thus when the heating element comes on the paper clip keeps the drain hole warm/hot and prevents the water from freezing. It has been 9 months since this fix and I haven't had any ice pooling in bottom of the freezer.
When I had the problem and started diagnosing it I opened up the freezer, pulled out the racks, draws, and eventually the door. Then I removed the ice maker and then a few screws and carefully removed the back white wall panel disconnecting the fan and any other electrical connections. Behind the panel you will see the cooling coil/fins, the heating element, the drip pan, and drain hole. Most likely you will see a sheet of ice everywhere. The best way to remove the ice is to boil a bunch of water in a tea kettle and slowly pour it on the ice to get it to melt so that you can start breaking out the pieces. Have a sponge and bucket ready to remove the water as the ice starts to melt. Eventually you should get all of the ice removed and get the drain hole unplugged. After all the ice is removed, you still need to fix the real problem by replacing the defrost controller, using the paper clip trick, or both.

Good-luck.

It sounds like your defrost controller has gone bad. I have an LFC25760 and had ice build up in the bottom of the freezer such that water would start leaking onto the floor. The ice build up in the bottom of the freezer was due to a failing/bad defrost controller. Behind the back white wall in the freezer compartment exists the cooling fins along with a heating element underneath. Due to moisture that comes into the freezer from opening it, frost/ice builds up on the cooling fins. Thus the defrost controller turns on the heating element to melt the ice/frost off of the fins which then drips into a metal pan which channels the water to a drain hole which drops into the drip pan underneath the fridge next to the fan. The problem is that the defrost controller doesn't keep the heating element on long enough or the cooling cycle comes on too soon thereby freezing the water and plugging up the drain. I had my defrost controller replaced (just outside the warranty period!) and it worked for about 1-month and then same thing happened again. Instead of paying for another defrost controller that would probably not work 100% my serviceman used the old paper-clip trick. He took a paper clip, stretched it out and then wrapped one end around the heating element and placed the other end into the drain hole. Thus when the heating element comes on the paper clip keeps the drain hole warm/hot and prevents the water from freezing. It has been 9 months since this fix and I haven't had any ice pooling in bottom of the freezer.

A fridge does not have a door latch, the door is held closed by gasket and a door stopper.
If you are looking for door stopper, here the part:
Stopper, door part1. 243A on diagram.Number:4620JJ3006CSubstitution:4620JJ3006D
Stopper, door Part2 - 243B Number:4620JJ2009A






Here the diagram find the part and check part list below:


You find the part list and part here: DOOR PARTS

Sorry to say this is typical for LG. Very little customer support and will never answer your request for support. About Your Message Type of Inquiry : Customer Service
Product Class : Appliances
Product Type : Refrigerators
Model Name/Number : LRTBC1825T
Your Message Message :
I am having a difficult time getting service
manuals or parts breakdowns for most or any of
your appliances. Please give me a contact so I
may by parts and view your service manuals.
Maytag and its group of Companies support the
customer. I think LG should also. I have about
16 websites and 4 of which sell and give advice
to the customers needing advice on repair and
parts. I would Like LG appliances to be a group
of dependable people that back up what they
sell. So visit my sites
http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/ and
http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/ and
while you are there go to the Maytag Service
Manuals Icon and see how easy it is to have
them service the customer. Thank Sea Breeze
You can get some support from http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/
I will help you because LG is not very helpful, Let me know and please rate me. It's important I get respect from my customers and friends. I also expect Lg to do the same, Thanks, Sea Breeze

When you put the filter in, did you let several gallons of water run through it before you started using it for your own use? You're supposed to flush the filter (see directions on box filter came in) before you use the filter for your own purposes.

If you're getting "chunky" water, check to make sure the water coming in from your taps is not sketchy, that your water source (either town/city or well) isn't encountering problems. If that's the case you might need to put in a "whole house" filtering system.

I had this same problem, with the thing freezing up, and this is how I solved it -- I took everything out of the fridge, I defrosted it for a few WEEKS (yes, weeks), cleaned the thing thoroughly, replaced the water filter, and fired it up again. So far, it's been two months, the thing is quiet as a grave, and running like a champ.

I think if you let ice form around the condenser fan, it will not go away easily. I tried the hair dryer trick, the "unplug it for a while" trick, but nothing worked. After a week or so I'd hear that grinding sound (which I think was the condenser fan and a huge chunk of ice doing their thing).

This refrigerator doesn't like to be opened a lot, and it doesn't like a door being left open, even a tiny bit, at all. The right door of the refrig can stay slightly open without the annoying beep happening, and the bottom freezer can also be slightly ajar and the beep won't go off. It's a trick to get everyone in the family to pay attention to this and make sure that the doors are all closed TIGHTLY, particularly the freezer door.

I called up the (not terribly helpful) LG people and they denied a systemic problem with the frig, and they also denied that cutting insulation was a good idea.

I am not sure what the truth is, but so far, so good with the lengthy defrost. Of course, if you don't have a spare frig, or you're not prepared to live out of a cooler for many days (I do think you need several days to get that massive block of ice melted) to try this fix, you may not be interested in it.

I got a new bin from repairclinic.com, but the little nubs that hold the bin onto the door (in the thin plastic lining of the door itself) are snapping off. Sigh.

Had that happen to me once. I took a hair dryer and (VERY CAREFULLY) thawed out the frozen water in the tube. Work fine after that. Remember water and electricity DO NOT MIX!! Your best bet may be to unplug the fridge, open the freeze door and let the tube thaw out naturally.

Hi there,

Clean the condensing coils. They're underneath or in the back of the fridge. You may need to buy a special brush that looks like a baby bottle brush, but much longer. just try this it will work.

good Luck!!
Thanks

It is very straight forward. Place the Lever within the Ice Bin in the Down Position.

press the swith by hand,work,check the door if it touch the swith.otherwise,ckech the swith

it indicates the problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute,check it. most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs. please do not forget to rate the solution.thanks

Your refrigerator has a main control board. We need to get the exact model number and do some test. I looked for the model listed above your post, but every number below and higher are what I found. Double check the model and if you like we can do some diagnostics, Thanks, Sea Breeze

yea...LG has lied to a lot of people. Check out www.lgfridgefury.org They can help.

It is possible that the fanmotor is not working and needs replacing. If the fanmotor is working, then you have the defrost system checked. It is either the element which is gone or the main pc board.