LG LRFD25850 French Door Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You are expereincing poor service. The techs that are working on your unit do not know what they are doing. There is no problem that can't be resolved on appliances. My suggestion to you is to find a really good LG tech in your area to repair this problem. There are only so many things that can cause these problems.

You need to replace the light or check and make sure your switch is not frozen and being held in

Suggest obtain correct valve.

Model number are the best the show techs like myself the configuration of the unit so we can accurately answer your concerns

Bad door gasket.

dispenser panel of what ?? thanks .

Hello Silvana, Personally I believe you are listening to the sound of... BIG SAVINGS. Very cool...!! I suspect DON'T live at the South Pole nor Fargo in winter I'm thinking you have an enviably GREAT door SEAL. Because a proper seal (which, I THINK, you have) maintains a really GREAT DIFFERENCE between the inside and outside air. The greater the TEMPERATURE difference the louder the sound. With good clean contact (NEW magnetic edge) ... you are hearing the cold air dropping out the bottom... room air rushing in... and if you are really lucky... a newly created vacuum trying to suck your door back closed... You might want to double check your temperature settings... with a ($6 to $10) REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER THERMOMETER(s) noted below... but I'm thinking the "squeezy sound" is MONEY in the BANK. Be proud.... (but verify). Comment me back if that sound is NOT a little more pleasing.

Check the flap where the ice comes out it may be stuck open which will cause the ice to freeze together

Is that model number LRFD25850 above your post correct? You are talking about the dispenser fountain controls? Appliance 911 Seabreeze

I would suggest you check the seal and the hinge. This frig has a piece that folds in and out flush for the two doors to seal, you might check that as well.

Karri,

I experienced the same problem with my LG refrigerator (model LFC25760ST). Came home from a weekend trip only to find that the light bulb assembly had melted and dropped onto the top shelf. The interior of the refirgerator compartment was very warm (est. 70 to 80 degrees) and everything in it had spoiled. Fortunately, nothing worse had happened. (According to consumer information on the Internet this LG refrigerator is suspected - but not proven - to have been the cause of a couple of house fires.)

There was no recall, however, because the reports to the Consumer Products Safety Commission were for less than 5% of this model sold in the U.S. But if you contact LG customer service (1-800-243-0000) whether your unit is still under warranty or not they should send someone out to replace the lamp assembly at no charge to you - this one with a heat sensor that serves as a backup to turning the lights off once the doors are closed.

Newer LG refrigerators have LED lights instead of incandescent light bulbs so they don't produce enough heat to warm the interior of the fridge or melt the light housing.

To learn more about other folk's similar experiences with these LG refrigerators just do an Internet search using "LG and "LCF25760" and "melted plastic." (Note: Leave the other letters after the five numbers in the model number off - they only refer to the exterior finish [i.e., "ST" = stainless steel] and unnecessarily narrow the search so as to miss some links.

Good luck with LG customer service.

grm

This fridge LRBN20514BK with bottom freezer is a piece of junk. Just had the relay on compressor replaced and now the thermostat isn\'t working. Temperature on fridge reads nothing and freezer temperature reading 5,6,7. Then the freezer coils freeze up and no air blowing to the fridge. Ready to take this POS outside and blow it up. Only 7 years old and never ending issues. I will never buy LG again. EVER! LNG - Life is not good! HELP.....so what needs replacing? Thermostat? And of course I have to have repair man come in due to LG not selling parts to customers. Again I call BS

Stop buying meat! Human are not meant to ever eat meat. You are a vegan by design.

Er is for error there should be something after the er to tell you what the error is.

Make sure the rails are pulled all the way forward, then lift the basket into place.

YOU WILL NEED A POWER POLISHER WITH A BUFFING PAD AND SOME YELLOW ROUGE AND WHITE ROUGE, (CAN BE PURCHASED AT HOME DEPOT TOOL DEPARTMENT). APPLY BUFFING PAD TO POLISHER AND TURN ON, SET TO LOWEST SETTING, APPLY YELLOW ROUGE TO PAD AS IT SPINS, ( START AT CENTER OF PAD AND MOVE OUTWARDS), DO THIS TWICE THEN BEGIN POLISHING STAINLESS,APPLY SLIGHT PRESSURE BUT ALLOW POLISHER TO DO WORK, REPEAT AS NEEDED, APPLY WHITE ROUGE TO BRING OUT SHINE.

Unplug the unit. What is the display panel showing?

Switch is bad on the refrigerator.

Economy mode. If the door is used less than a certain number of times a day the power consumption is lowered by switching the compressor on less. It is a good thing, not a fault!

The real problem is that the drain which carries the defrost water away from the coils (and down to the external pan underneath where it should evaporate) has become plugged with ice (from having left the door open thereby icing up the coils and the drain). The problem you have now is that the normal defrost cycle was not designed to melt the ice plug that is blocking the drain. Solution: You have to either (1) if you're handy, you can remove the plastic panel over the coils in the back of the freezer and melt it out with a hair dryer or hot water -- or (2) unplug the unit, leave the doors open and let it melt out by itself. I don't know how long you'd have to wait for (2) to completely melt the ice plug -- I'm guessing at least 24-36 hours to be sure. I did (1) and it took me about 2 hours to remove the freezer bin and door, remove the main drawer slides, remove the internal drawers and their slides, remove the back inside panel, find the ice plug (lower left side of the drip tray under the evap coils), melt it out with hot water from a baster, verify that the drain was clear, reassemble in reverse order. But it worked. Problem completely solved -- no water since. By the way the drip tray was completely full of ice - right after a defrost cycle had completed -- so this problem will never resolve itself without intervention. Bear in mind, the whole cycle COULD happen again if the drawer is left open again and the excess ice builds up on the coils again. This is a design flaw in the unit itself. However, I read about a clever solution to prevent a new ice plug forming as a result of the open door. Just loop a length of 10-12 gauge bare copper wire around the defrost heater element and insert the other end of the wire in the drain hole. Heat conducted through the wire during defrost will clear any ice plug that may form.