20 Most Recent Amana AOCS3040 Electric Single Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hello,

I have included a link to the parts break down of the door THEIR IS NO BREAKDOWN/ DIAGRAM EVER DRAWN that is going to so the placement of where every screw goes


http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/M0402280-00004.png

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F1 error code is displayed when the clock assembly/electronic range control (ERC) goes bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

I hit the same F9 problem when trying to self-clean, except that the door was locked OPEN.

After much trial and error, I found the following fix: 1. Switch circuit breaker off. 2. Switch circuit breaker on. 3. Press Bake button. 4 Press the small/inside button which indicates that the oven door is closed.

The lock mechanism opened and the oven now works fine.

Sounds like the element shorted out. I recommend having someone look at it or go out and buy a new oven. Either way you will have to spend some money to get someone to get your oven repaired/replaced.

Hi,

If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Check for loose power cables to the control board. Also check for loose and dry joints on the electronic controll board.

I have the same problem on my AOCS3040 oven....door will not shut tightly so it loses heat and is about 25 degrees off plus the escaped heat makes the control panel get very hot during cooking.

F1=Electronic range control failure

It is telling you may have a fauilty control...need to replace control or EOC

Which element..?? there are 3... Check for voltage to the bake element.!!! (2 legs of 110-120 VAC) Does your broil function work.? Convection.? or did "bake" flake out.? the relay boards are not very robust in these ovens, and manufactured as cheaply as possible. The board mounted relays develop cracks in their soldered connection to the PCB over time, resulting in intermittent opens for some of the relays. Spend some time narrowing down the relay controlling the circuit that is dropping out, and re-solder the node. Sometimes just hitting it with a soldering pencil will be enough to restore the connection, but I would recommend adding a little silver solder to the puddle. It will help keep that connection from opening again.! Heck, while you're at it, re-solder all the board side relay nodes to prevent future issues.. or just replace the $165 board.. :)

Jump online & get the schematics for your oven.. You'll need to troubleshoot the bake circuit, which is comprised of 2 - 120VAC legs (240VAC is applied during bake). One 120VAC leg is from the DLB relay and the other is from the Bake relay. if either one is bad, or not energizing, you won't get any power to the bake element. (The bake element runs 100% of the time during the bake cycle. broiler only operates 25% of the time during bake) I have had luck re-soldering the relay leg nodes on the backside of the relay board, as they develop "opens" over time. The relays are designed for ridiculous ##s of cycles, so they're not *usually* bad.

You probably have a burnt out element.

It is possible that the igniter is bad but you will need to test it first. Disconnect the wiring harness and use a ohm meter on the connector for the igniter(should get 500 to 700 ohms). If you get a open reading or a very low ohm reading then the igniter is bad. Verify that the wiring harness coming from the oven control has around 120volts when the oven thermostat is in demand using a voltage meter. You can also have the igniter tested at most stores that sell replacement appliance parts.

If it is a drop down door, then you will probably have to replace the oven door hinges, as the springs are most likely weak.
Hope this helps with your prob.

No, I do not want to pay for a simple question I have. Will solve the problem otherwise, unless you can forward an Instruction Manual (single oven) to me for FREE.
Thanks,
Christel

There is a blower on the top of the oven, which turns on when the oven is hot enough. If the warm/hot air is coming out from top vent corners - this is the blower working. Even if you turn the oven off at that moment, the blower will still work until the oven cools down. This is normal.

The normal convention for interlock switches is positive and therefore the switch as to be made to allow the appliance / function to operate. Therefore, as you have already tried to isolate it you really only have one option left and that is to replace the inter lock switch assembly. Before doing so it is worth checking the continuity of the wiring from the switch assembly back to the controller board with the power switched off just to see if there are any breaks etc. Use an Ohm Meter if possible to see if they are all low resistance as they should be.

Hello, an F1 error code for an Amana refers to a failed watchdog circuit or ERC (Electronic range control) and need to be replaced. This can be located inside the control panel and is normally accessed from the back of the range. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. Mike

you could have a bad touch pad or ECU which is the main control board.

HI. this F-9 code is signaling a major door mechanism malfunction. the best action is to replace the entire door latch assembly. this will heel the F-9 alert and, fix the problem you are experiencing at this time.


Please rate and, have a great evening:)

Possible solution: The clean oven safety latch is in the latched position already. Move latch to opposite side and try closing door again. Latch not usually needed except during cleaning cycle.

Good luck,
Techjoel