Top 20 Amana AOCS3040 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Try unplugging or reset the breaker. Leave it off for about a minute. If that doesn't get it then try to remove face plate. Disconnect the wires to the control panel. It can put it back in order. Next , maybe this should be second, try to google your problem and often times the results are there. I have loved many a problems doing that. Last resort, call mfr and see what they suggest. They may have the easiest and fastest fix.

The lock motor (latch) has gone bad. Unfortunately, the part has been discontinued and is no longer available for this model. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you want to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more than this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions. Kevin

Hi,Here is a tip that I wrote about why an electric oven will not shut off.Electric Oven Problem Oven will not shut offheatman101

Hello,

The F2 error code means that the over overheated by at least 100 degrees above the tempature that was set at the time. The usual reason the oven would over heat by so much is a defective oven tempature sensor and the sensor would need to be tested to see if is the problem to test the sensor it would need to disconnected from the wiring to it and measure the amount of ohms of resistiance AT ROOM TEMPATURE when the oven is off and cool. At room temp. the the meter used to check the sensor should display between 1060-1100 ohms,if the number is vastly different that 1060-1100 at room tempature the sensor is defiently bad and should be replaced. This is what the sensor looks like
it will be inside of the oven chamber and again to properly check it the wiring should be unplugged and the meter leads should be placed into the plug at the end of the sensor to measure the ohms

GENE

Hi

F4 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

unplug unit remove back,,remove tw0 screws holding broil [top] element and replace..

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
This is a fairly common problems with these ovens expecially if you have just used the self clean feature or were using it and tried to interupt the cycle.
What you will need to do is first unplug the power to the oven then wait 1 full hour with out touching it then after the hour is up plug the power back in and you may hear a click sound if not wait additional 5 min then press the cancel or the off button for the self clean feature then try to open the door.
Now if this does not work than the door lock feature is either faulty or stuck which means that you will have to remove the top of the stove and unbolt the plate that is under neath there to get to the switch to release it once it has been released check it out really good to see if any of the wires look or smell burnt or the lock itself looks worn out if so replace it ok
Hope this helps you out
Best regards Mike

Hello,

I have included a link to the parts break down of the door THEIR IS NO BREAKDOWN/ DIAGRAM EVER DRAWN that is going to so the placement of where every screw goes


http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/M0402280-00004.png

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F1 error code is displayed when the clock assembly/electronic range control (ERC) goes bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,

If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Sounds like the element shorted out. I recommend having someone look at it or go out and buy a new oven. Either way you will have to spend some money to get someone to get your oven repaired/replaced.

I have the same problem on my AOCS3040 oven....door will not shut tightly so it loses heat and is about 25 degrees off plus the escaped heat makes the control panel get very hot during cooking.

amana oven reads SAb or 5Ab code? stove works, oven doesnt??? HELP

Check for loose power cables to the control board. Also check for loose and dry joints on the electronic controll board.

Jump online & get the schematics for your oven.. You'll need to troubleshoot the bake circuit, which is comprised of 2 - 120VAC legs (240VAC is applied during bake). One 120VAC leg is from the DLB relay and the other is from the Bake relay. if either one is bad, or not energizing, you won't get any power to the bake element. (The bake element runs 100% of the time during the bake cycle. broiler only operates 25% of the time during bake) I have had luck re-soldering the relay leg nodes on the backside of the relay board, as they develop "opens" over time. The relays are designed for ridiculous ##s of cycles, so they're not *usually* bad.

If it is a drop down door, then you will probably have to replace the oven door hinges, as the springs are most likely weak.
Hope this helps with your prob.

It is possible that the igniter is bad but you will need to test it first. Disconnect the wiring harness and use a ohm meter on the connector for the igniter(should get 500 to 700 ohms). If you get a open reading or a very low ohm reading then the igniter is bad. Verify that the wiring harness coming from the oven control has around 120volts when the oven thermostat is in demand using a voltage meter. You can also have the igniter tested at most stores that sell replacement appliance parts.

Which element..?? there are 3... Check for voltage to the bake element.!!! (2 legs of 110-120 VAC) Does your broil function work.? Convection.? or did "bake" flake out.? the relay boards are not very robust in these ovens, and manufactured as cheaply as possible. The board mounted relays develop cracks in their soldered connection to the PCB over time, resulting in intermittent opens for some of the relays. Spend some time narrowing down the relay controlling the circuit that is dropping out, and re-solder the node. Sometimes just hitting it with a soldering pencil will be enough to restore the connection, but I would recommend adding a little silver solder to the puddle. It will help keep that connection from opening again.! Heck, while you're at it, re-solder all the board side relay nodes to prevent future issues.. or just replace the $165 board.. :)