20 Most Recent 2008 kawasaki Ninja 250R - Page 6 Questions & Answers

time to clean the carb(s)

Change the gear to neutral and check the kill switch to be on. take the bike off side stand as it may be caused by side stand swich. If your battery is charged it should have enough power to trun the lights on. Check the lights by trurning the ignition to on and turning the lights on. Try starting the engine. If it cranks the battery is fine you should check gas as the second step.

Shelly this is a relatively easy fix if you feed the cable back up under the fairing locate the back of the speedo you will see a threaded piece protruding from the back of it simply place the inner cable that is the sqare metal bit intothe middle now screw the silver bit on about half way give the front wheel a few turns just to locate the cable correctly into the speedo now tighten the silver bit fully there you go fixed & you did it all the best Geoff

sounds like you do have a fuel problem and may have picked some trash or water in your fuel you might let the let the dealer check it and see being it is new as you dont want to work on it yourself as it might void your warrenty

http://bikerpunks.com/media/other_files/15021361-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-Service-Manual2.pdf

1500 miles oil change clutch adjust and alinement for tires and brake operation.

Pull the spark plug and squirt some gas in the cylinder, put the plug back in and get the juices flowing. Sometimes the fuel pump goes dry and needs to be primed, the crank alone won't do it, it needs some umph! Hope this helps.

you can change the sprockets.If you go to a 16 tooth front sprocket. two teeth on a front sprocket is like droping 4 teeth on the rear. You could drop 2 teeth on the rear sprocket but a 43 tooth is probably harder to find. the usual choices for front are 14,15,16 tooth.
For the rear they are 44,45,46 tooth

The way to remeber gearing changes is on REAR sprocket is smaller=faster and larger=slower top end.
the FRONT is OPPOSITE to the rear smaller=slower and bigger=faster.
You may have to lengthen or shorten the chain depending whjch way you go.

You could have a blocked main jet .When starting from cold your engine runs on an idle jet & choke .with very little air .When engine is warm ,there is no need for choke .and your main jet will supply your engines fuel & air ,however if the jet is blocked or there is no air supply like a dirty air cleaner unit .then there is a good chance thats your problem .One quick way of checking this is to try and start without choke and see if your plugs are wet .Then whle plugs are out test the spark by placing them on the engine .and turning the engine over .

Unfortunately, bike batteries seem to **** out from one season to the next due to material build-up (from vibration) in the bottom of the battery case which causes the cells to discharge even when recharged through the storage period. The meter on your charger (unplugged) is reading battery voltage, but if you turn on the headlight, the voltage would show very low. Try charging the battery at 2 to 4 amps rate overnight (about 6 hours) and see if the battery recovers. If it fails rapidly, get a new battery. Hope this helps!

The oil filter is under the engine towards the front,black canister ,and the drain plug is at the very bottom of the engine in the middle probably 12 or 13mm spanner,when removing dont loose the copper or alloy seal washer,allways warm the engine first,to help drainage of oil ,and replace with quality 15/40w motorcycle engine oil,semi synthetic never use car oil.

sounds like the carbs need cleaning...if its been stood for a while..petrol thats in the carbs goes off....so you will need to take the carbs of the bike & take the float bowls off to clean them out...& do the jets as well...has these have small holes in them .petrol goes threw these & gum up....thats why your bike wont rev!!..its not getting enuf petrol!!...hope this helps

No problem mate, you have many kawasaki parts dealers in the philippines. Here you go

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/motorcycle-dealers-distributors/

Joe

sounds like could be exhaust problem. do anything new to it lately? also what kind of gas are you running and what kind of oil and tranny fluid. Check battery terminals make sure they are secure tightly.

no fuse, you probably fried your battery. dont ever jump your ninja with your truck again, if you do, dont start the truck... just hookup and disconnect asap. you may have burnt some wiring and may have to replace it. let me know if you have any more questions. TAKE UR BATTERY TO AUTO ZONE TO MAKE SURE IT IS STILL GOOD :)

if it wont go into gear it may be your statter or clutch. Hard to tell, what i always do is take my bike in when i have problems like this, have them diagnose the problem, get a list of part numbers and do the work yourself :) :)

so i drove my bike sputtering to school and notice that there werent problems with the fuel system cause i heard the engine drowning in the fuel cause the ignition system couldnt explode it by a to weak spark from the spark plugs, so i only had to change the spark plugs and everything was good as normal

sorry if my story writings look a bit weird, cause i dont speak or write english where i live

The exhaust is about all you can do and a K&N air filter. Those 250's are tweek pretty much to the limit from the factory.

You need to remove the seat,sidecovers. Then take both sides off of air box (so you can move it slightly) remove fuel line (turn petcock off first) remove vacumm line from the tank and remove tank. Then take a philips screw driver and loosen the clamps on the carb boots.At the air box boots take a small flat screw driver and roll thye springs back. Disconect the choke cable.use a 10mm wrench and loosen adjusting bolt on throttle both the push and the pull side.unscrew the cables out of the braket. pull backon the airbox as you tilt the carbs up toward the airbox and they should come out.once removed you will need a philips,narrow flat head.and a 10mm wrench. drain fuel from carbs and remove bowls. take one carb apart at a time so not to mix floats and needles up.pull the pin holding the floatand remove the needle sholud come out with it.use the 10mm to take out the needle seat(don't loose the washer).
look down the holes in the bottom and you will see screws this is your pilot jet.BE VERY CAREFUL UNSCREWING THE JET AS IT IS BRASS AND WILL STRIP VERY EASILY. Turn the carbs over and remove tophats,srping and slide.turn your air mixture screw in until it hits bottom and count the turns (usually about 21/2 to 3 turns) remove screw and sring,washer and oring. If the oring and washer are stuck in the hole you will need a pic set and alot of pashence. Don't loose these or your bike won't idle right after.clean crabs with carb and choke cleaner and reassemble in reverse order. Hope this helps
P.S. turn mixture screws in all the way and back out same number of turns as you counted before.

Unscrew the connector at the front wheel. If you can reach the connector under the speedometer unscrew it. If you can not reach it you will have to take the parts in your way off. I would suggest a careful examination using a mirror to see if it can be done with very few items removed. A dentists mirror is ideal for this. Otherwise take pictures as you go to aid re-assembly. You may get away with merely removing the upper fairing. Good Luck.