20 Most Recent 2007 kawasaki Ninja 250R Questions & Answers


Hi, Rockwood26 for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 21, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 07, 2018


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 06, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 06, 2018


Frame number(VIN) is stamped on the yoke behind the headlight. You have to turn the handle bar fully in order to see it on the frame. The engine number is stamped on top of the lower half of the engine behind the cylinders (basically on top of the gearbox)

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 16, 2016


Hi, Chase the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://service.tanga-moteurs.ro/data/KAWASAKI%20NINJA%20250%2008%20EX250J8F%20(99924-1391-01)%20SM.pdf
Owner Center

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Dec 18, 2015


Hi dirty Petrol and now carbies are blocking need to pull and strip carbies down and clean Mess out jets. Regards Billy

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 07, 2014


Hello,use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on May 28, 2014


Try releasin the cable till you have play in the lever.If you have play there already,could be your throut at the clutch pack is crossed up and locking it open.

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 02, 2013


It sounds like the float needle valves are lletting gas run into the bowl,in turn running gas into the motor,and fouling the spark plugs. Have you noticed if the oil level seems to be going UP,or the fuel level is going down? Kawasaki motorcycles are prone to leaking needle valves in the carbs for some reason. And the longer it sits,the worse its going to get.Try this,...pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel.Then,unhook the coils,and spin the motor over with the plugs out.If it shoots raw fuel about a foot out of each or ANY cylinder,then that is your problem. JUST BE SURE TO DISABLE THE COILS BEFORE SPINNING MOTOR OVER,AND DONT BE CLOSE TO THE PLUG HOLES WHEN YOU SPIN IT OVER!!
Good Luck!

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 27, 2012


Check the fuses under the seat. They are both on the same circuit so that's where I would start.

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Jun 09, 2012


Most likely you will need to remove the cylinders to inspect the pistons. It sounds like the pistons have received cracks on the top end so no or very low compression is causing it not to fired

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 24, 2011


If it is made different, then you got the wrong part. There can also be changes in electrical items in mid year production. Unfortunately, most electrical parts are not returnable. I suggest you take the part number for the part you got and look it up on the internet or go to your local dealer. OEM is the way to go. Good luck.

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Mar 07, 2018


Hi, Michael_p571 before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Engine won start Clicking sound ninjette org
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/90605-bike-wont-start-makes-clicking-sound.html
Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Mar 06, 2018


Hi, James and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Jan 19, 2018


Hi, Denise and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirt or other foreign matter between float valve and its seat.
2. Float valve sticking.
3. Float valve and/or valve seat is worn or damaged.
4. Float misadjusted.
5. Float cracked, leaky or damaged.
6. Excessive "PUMPING" of hand throttle grip.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Jan 17, 2018


Hey Anon, remove the battery, have it's CCA's - ( Cold Cranking Amps ) checked... this is the only true measure of a batteries health. O'Reilly's, Auto Zone, Advance Auto can check it..they will tell you if its good or not. Install new (recommended) spark plugs.. Next, its time to make sure the injectors are getting fuel,,..make sure the petcock is letting fuel through.. DO NOT put "additives" in it...make sure the injectors are passing fuel..(fuel pressure) It might be time for a trip to a qualified professional to double check the injectors..
An internal combustion engine requires 3 things to run:
1. A properly timed spark
2. Adequate compression >120PSI
3. A proper fuel/air ratio

one - or more - is not working.. eliminate one by one..

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Sep 13, 2017


Hi, Casey for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://forums.ninja250.org/posting.php?mode=topicreview&t=53330&tro=1
Transmission fluid type
Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2001 Kawasaki NINJA 250R Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Aug 14, 2017


Hi, Tyler and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kawasaki Ninja 250R Service Manual
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Feb 23, 2017

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