Toyota 4Runner - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 6

When I have had trouble bleeding systems...I have over come it by reverse bleeding. You buy a pump on container put it on the last bleed screw and flush the fluid back wards up out the resavor

The floor shifter engages the transfer case, the front differential the has to lock, if the 4wheel light does not turn on then the problem is at the front differential possibly the vacuum operated front wheel lock diaphragm. Check to make sure the vacuum hoses are attached to the vacuum housing, check the metal pipes on the diaphragm they can clog up with rust, you may have to remove it and apply vacuum to it to see if it works. If the hoses are on at both ends, they connect to a vacuum solenoid at the top, check the solenoid.

That sounds like an air leak in the intake manifold area. If there is no hose off,it could be a intake manifold gasket problem If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

Try disconnecting the battery for a minute.

Get a 2nd opinion. Get the cooling system ckd. The cooling sensor will eventually adjust the timing along w the valves. ck your coolant level when warmed. all sensors contribute to valve/ timing.

No trick that AI have run across.

what is the valve clearance and cylinder head torque for toyota 2lt diesel engine

kasim

Insert the key and turn the lock cylinder while lifting up on the lift gate. You have to get the gate open. Once open, The strike plate (where the locking mechanism hits) is bolted to the jamb. Loosen the bolts and slightly move it toward the rear of the vehicle. NOT TOO MUCH! Tighten the bolts, and try it. Hope this helps.

Transfer box fault? (This is very common fault on Land Rover discovery)

run the fault codes for the timing to be out there will ba code

was the control panel ever wet? You may need to remove the entire dashboard to get the part out - I am not that familiar with 4 runners so I could be entirely wrong

sounds like the fuel pump is not getting fuel to the injectors - check the fuel filter and if that is not plugged up, then check the fuel manifold pressure - if it's about 10psi or more (when the ignition switch is on) then it's probably not the fuel system. it the ignition system okay (sparks to the plugs?) you could have a burned out coil or spark plug wires - or spark plugs - but since it was running, I'd check the fuel system first

sounds like you have a dead battery - does the starter solenoid click when you turn the ignition to the start position?

Sounds like it could likely be a hose that goes to the heater core.

system is air locked. find the highest holes in system loosen clamp too let air esape. some systems have air valve in line some were for this. check heater for heat, no heat, no water, bleed heater core holes. you can park on hill with front of engine up. keep in mind if engine is side ways put front of engine on high side of hill. check to see if fan is working good luck

When a warning light is on, codes are stored. Get the codes read. That's your starting point. Asking us to guess is a waste of time

run the fault codes could be a vacuum leak from a bad brake booster of hoses not properly connected after the work

This might be a bearing or cv joint. Raise one wheel and see if you can wobble it.