20 Most Recent 1991 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Is at the very back of the motor. Located in the coolant passage under the heater hoses. It has one wire going to it. Oct 29, 2014

Coolant Temp Sensor - Largest 4Runner Forum

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Did you disconnect the battery? Does it have an alarm and engine immobilizer? Is the Security Light Flashing? Did you reset it after you reconnected the battery? Did you check for DTC codes? https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+toyota+4runner+v6+reset+security+system https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

Not sure, but did you replace the oxygen sensors. Is your catalytic converter still good?

22r-E, 3vz-E And 3f-E Engines

1. Warm up the engine, then turn it OFF. Connect a timing light to the engine following the manufacturer_s instructions.
   
2. Connect a tachometer to both battery terminals. Connect the tachometer probe to the IG-terminal in the check connector box. The check connector box is located next to the underhood fuse and relay box on trucks and 4Runner's; for Land Cruisers, the check connector box is on the firewall. Use the correct adapter to insure a tight fit on the terminal. Not all tachometers, particularly older ones are electrically compatible with this system. Read instructions for your unit before using.
   

Attach the tachometer as shown

3. Start the engine and run it at idle. Check the idle speed on the tachometer; adjust it to specification if necessary.

4. At the check connector, use a small jumper wire to short the connector at terminal T or TE1 and terminal E1, of the DLC1 as shown. Special service tool (SST) 09843-18020 or its equivalent can be used for this also.



Connect the SST or jumper wire to the TE1 and E1 terminals of the DLC1

This jumper will be used repeatedly during diagnostics in later sections. Take the time to make a proper jumper with correct terminals or probes. It's a valuable special tool for very low cost.

1. Check the idle speed, then check the ignition timing. The 22R-E should read 5° BTDC, 3VZ-FE should read 10° BTDC and the 3F-E should read 7° BTDC. All of these readings are at idle.
   

On 3-FE engines, remove the rubber plug at the rear of the engine to view the timing mark



On other engines, the timing mark is visible on the crankshaft pulley

1. Loosen the distributor pinch bolt just enough that the distributor can be turned. Aim the timing light at the marks on the crankshaft pulley (or the drive plate on 3F-E) and slowly turn the distributor until the correct timing mark aligns with the pointer. Tighten the distributor pinch bolt.
   
2. Remove the jumper wire or special service tool (SST) from the DLC1.
   
3. Check that the ignition timing advances. At idle the 22R-E should read 10°-14° BTDC, 3VZ-FE should read 8° BTDC, and the 3F-E should read 12° BTDC.
   
4. Shut the engine OFF and remove the timing light and tachometer leads.
   

These are terminals in the diagnostic check connector usually located under the hood on pre 1995 models using the OBD1 diagnostic system, when a jumper wire is put in between both terminals and the key is on the check engine light will blink, giving you a two digit code This code number can then be looked up to determine the fault of the engine control system. Specifically, terminal E1 is ground and TE1 is linked to the computer's diagnostic section,.

run the fault codes could be a vacuum leak from a bad brake booster of hoses not properly connected after the work

Hey Jane, .. hhhmmm..Only does it in 2H..not 4H... this tells me that it is in the front wheel drive line..(the noise quits in 4H)..obviously something in the front drive line is loose or worn out... THIS could be a safety issue... PLEASE take it to a qualified professional for a diagnosis... good luck..

knock sensor may be wired from the distributor check the plug into the distributor for pin looseness or corrosion

Replace the clutch package. You have to pull the transmission Master and slave also..

I would start by removing the wheels and inspecting the brakes. Could have damaged shoes or springs.

Replace rear wheel Cylinder Rubbers

autozone comprobar? que gratuitamente

What kind of vehicle?

which engine exactly???? The 3VZ-E btw , the cam drive can make noise and make the sensor go nuts. so we never just throw in this $185 sensors. not ever. FIRST GOOGLE HIT http://www.yotatech.com/f2/knock-sensor-wire-3vz-e-34186/ OR ALLDATA.COM OR ANY REAL TOY FORUM NOT , FIXYA. OR THE REAL FSM SOLD BY HELM. OR? Post symptoms and ask for why it fails.

-What happened to the original one...? Just take one old one and go match or get from junk yard. Good Luck Mai Lor

late valve timing ( how did you find this out)is from a faulty timing adjuster on the front of the cam shaft and is hydraulically operated by a solenoid controlled by the ECM. They are prone to failure and regularly require replacement. have the fault codes read for better assessment of faults before you waste any more money.

check cranck and cam sensors