Replaced blown head gasket and now dont know how the lobes on the cams are supposed to face. Diagram i obtained from mazda is a little vague. Car is in time as I have done this a million times, but it wont start and Im thinking i have installed the cam arms(maybe waht theyre called) incorrectly

You could do that, but you may have a worn cam lobe and your problem would not be solved.

90 Storm, must be in Canada, 1,6 (the comma tells me this)
the storm is a:
The car is really an Isuzu Impulse minus some of that car's more expensive features.
my guess is you drove the this 4EX1 engine until the cam belt slipped. yes> if yes you bent valves.????????????
so does compression exceed 150psi on all 4 cylinders now?
we use the cylinder leak down test in all DOHC .
if not , back to the drawing board.
if yes, the we check spark next, then try test fuel.
when did the engine last run , last week,month , year,?
who did your valves, a real machine shop or kid down the street.
a read shop pressure tests the head ,and warp checks it and
then makes sure the valves are ready for long service.
are the head bolts at 58 ft/lbs
did you use sealant on the 3 cap caps, per the FSM book.
if not , top end oiling will fail. and cams wrecked.

the 1.6l DOHC has no HLA's
the lash on valves must be checked, and this is corrected with SHIMS.

a pro machine shop does the for you,did they:?
when rebuilding engines, its best to read the factory service manual first. FSM so you know the special steps just for this engine.
ISUZU engine it is.



quote.
1.6L Twin Camshaft Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the cylinder head or valve cover.
3. Position the No. 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke.

The notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the 0 degrees mark on the timing gear case. Make sure the rocker arms on the No. 1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on the No. 4 cylinder are tight. If not, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the marks again.

1. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the selective shim on the intake and exhaust valves on the No. 1 cylinder, then the intake valves on the No. 2 cylinder and the exhaust valves on the No. 3 cylinder. Note readings.
2. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the selective shim on the intake and exhaust valves on the No. 4 cylinder, then the intake valves on the No. 3 cylinder and the exhaust valves on the No. 2 cylinder. Note readings.
3. The valve clearance obtained on the exhaust valves should be between 0.008-0.012 in. (0.20-0.30mm). If not, replace the selective shim by turning the camshaft lobe downward and installing tool J-38413-2 or J-38413-3 (valve lash spring spacer) between the camshaft journal and the cam lobe next to the selective shim. Turn cam lobe upward and remove the selective shim. Install new shim using the selective shim chart.

The rear camshaft bearing caps must be removed to remove the selective shim.

1. The valve clearance obtained on the intake valves should be between 0.004-0.008 in. (0.10-0.20mm). If not, replace the selective shim by turning the camshaft lobe downward and installing tool J-38413-2 or J-38413-3 between the camshaft journal and the cam lobe next to the selective shim. Turn cam lobe upward and remove the selective shim. Install new shim using the selective shim chart.
2. When the adjustment is completed, install the cylinder head covers and connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.

end fsm quote.

see those 2 marks, and crank must be at TDC. mark first.

Cam lobes on piston firing should be sticking up in the air,opposite the one that's got cam lobes opening or just closing the valves

Really, really, sorry to suggest that the head gasket may not have oil passages lined up. Always lay the oil gasket over the new gasket to see if each and every hole is punched out and lines up to the old gasket.

Also, each lifter needs to go back to its original spot. The Cam lobes are worn for that lifter and a mismatch can be possible. A mismatch could mean extra play in a badly worn lifter face mated to a badly worn Cam lobe.

If that is what you did then get new or rebuilt lifters. Check out Compcams.com for a detailed description of each engine scheme. Your engine may have a thrust plate for the lifters and it may be incorrectly installed creating noise.

Sounds like it is water in you oil, most probably coolant from a blown head gasket.

befor replacing cam belt or chains puo two valvse on no 1 cylind to the closed with the cam lobes facing away from the valves replace belt make sure rotor arm pointing at no 1 ht lead then timing is set

here you go buddy

http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=25269

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1994-mazda-protege-replacing-a-blown-head-gasket-vt206242.html

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-mazda-protege--my-timing-belt-broke-again,-oil-pressure-vt253721.html

http://www.blurtit.com/q298393.html

hope this helps.

thanks,

voodoo

if this is 6VD1 engine it has single cam gear each head, but is still a 2 cams per head, engine
if belt has broke or you have turned any gear you must remove rocker covers to check positions of camshafts front lobes are in certain spot as well as timming mark on belt driven cam gear to cover
this cam gear is a 3:1 ratio (3 turns of cam gear = 1 turn of cams)

Stage one of a blown head gasket is a pin hole leak. As time goes by the hole(s) get bigger.
I will start traking the coolant lost and oil lose.
From the time you stop your engine to the next morning,there can be slow leakage between the coolant passage and the cyclinder end of the head gasket.
This is one possiblilty of lots of white smoke in AM.
Small amount is normal but large amount of smoke is a call for a professional check up.
To pin point a blowing headgasket you will need
1)coolant system compression tester
or
2)chemical reaction test for combustion test gas
If it's the org. engine from 1997,with over 110,000 then blowning headgasket is a good possiblity.
Drive it to the shop and let the pro to do the coolant pressure test and combustion gas test.
A full head gasket job with head re-surface (if it can be re-use) is worth it.
Shop around on well estiblished independent shops.
Fix the blown head gasket at the first stage of failure can safe you thousand on a head replacement.