Are you check right fuel pressure to the check valve on the fuel rail, the spark is there, the timing is correct, it cranks over fine? You'll probably need to do some pinpoint checks to see if the drivers are working. Are you scanned the PCM to know exactly what fault code is stored?
Keep in mind that the EDIS ignition will not function without a valid PIP signal. However,
when dealing with computer modules and circuitry, intermittent-type
problems are not all that uncommon, so you can't rule out a component
just because you know that it works properly some of the time.
Keep us updated.
Fuel is metered into each intake port in a sequential firing order. Fuel injectors pulse to follow engine firing order in accordance with engine demand on a tuned intake manifold.
The basic fuel requirement of the engine is determined from the data supplied to the powertrain control module (PCM) by the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, which measures the amount of air being drawn into the engine.
Other sensors are used to measure:
The various sensors detect any changes in the operating conditions and send signals to the powertrain control module. This permits the powertrain control module to control the opening duration (pulse width) of the fuel injectors and maintain optimum exhaust emission control and engine performance for all operating conditions.
The fuel injectors:
CAUTION: The fuel injectors and the fuel injection supply manifold must be handled with extreme care to prevent damage to sealing areas and sensitive fuel-metering orifices.
The fuel injection supply manifold:
It sounds like you may have a bad PCM, or computer. You will need to scan this vehicle using a NGS Scan Tool. If you don't have one, you will need to have a Dealership scan your computer and sensors to figure out if your PCM is bad, or it is just a bad sensor.
The Sensors help the PCM control the Fuel Injectors, but the PCM is what controls the Fuel Injectors. If the wiring is fine, you probably have a faulty PCM.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
Have you had your Timing Checked? You might also want to check your Main Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, Ignition Switch, Injector Wiring, Injector Resistance, and Injector Leakage. If you PCM is fine, your timing is correct, your injectors are getting the signal from the PCM to spray fuel, the fuel rail is pressurized, and the injectors operate correctly, you should have no problems.
This issue almost sounds due to bad wiring. When the engine starts, it may move slightly, causing an intermittent connection loss, then the engine dies. This is a long shot, but it is possible.
Are you sure the engine is really starting up for a couple of seconds, or does it just partially combust and then die? I would check the timing since everything else seems to be checking out.
Inspect the connectors for corrosion, broken clips, bent pins, etc. Repair as necessary. You may want to try spraying some Electrical Contact Cleaner on the connector terminals to see if this helps.
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Hello
Have you run the OBD2 electronic engine control fault code test? both the of the tests must be done and the result's diagnosed, that is the key on engine off test (KOEO) and the key on engine running test (KOER) as well. How have you confirmed the injector pulse is lost? each injector has its own driver in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), the injector grounds the injectors to open them in the proper sequence, it is the same as the firing order of the spark plugs. To confirm loss of injector pulse you use a little tool known as a "NOID", they can be bought at any good auto parts store for about $5.00, they contain a little light that flashes when the injector pulse is present, it plugs into the harness connector at each injector. Each injector shares the same Battery (+) circuit and is powered off of a fuse and it in turn is powered off the ignition starter switch.
You have not answered even one question I asked, yet immediately reject my help?? I think based on what you have written you have no clue, so please read and follow the very well grounded advice I gave you. I am a Ford certified Master technician in Ford electronic engine control systems. UI speak from decades of experience. Good luck.
Logic probe?? what is that?? I have access to every factory tool for diagnosis of this type of problem and that is not one of them. All you need is a live data system scanner like a Ford NGS and a Digital Volt Ohm Meter
Hello again
I requested specific information so I could try and help, not to insult you, ego has nothing to do with this. In the future be forth coming about everything you have done in the first post, It toke four exchanges of information before you really answered my questions as to what tests were done. And the Logic test, I did this a long time and I still do not know what you are referring to here, maybe just a different term for a common test procedure known to me as something else?? Sorry for any hard feelings you might have, I was never trying to hurt your feelings or degrade you. I just thought you were a home mechanic (like 99% of the problem posts) and based on the problem you presented I thought it was over your head due to the training and equipment needed to do the large number of diagnostic tests. You never indicated your level of automotive training, I only mentioned my certification to let you know that I know the product and am not some want to be expert with no Ford training. There is no need to attach me on a personnel level, I was just trying to help. It is obvious you are frustrated with this car, it is just a car and it will get fixed, if not by you then some other technican.
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CHECK CAMSHAFT SENSOR WIRES COULD BE LOOSE DISCONNECTED.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD PRPBLEM COULD BE FAULTY CAMSHAFT OR FAULTY PCM.BOTH FIRES THE FUEL INJECTORS.
Symptom indicates your losing pressure on the fuel rail which indicates the fuel pump is cutting off. Put the ignition in the "ON" position and then test the pressure on the fuel rail. If there is no pressure or less than 35lbs of pressure on the fuel rail with the key in the "ON" position the fuel pump is faulty. If there is more than 45 lbs of pressure on the rail you have the same problem and the safety is killing the fuel pump to prevent damage.
The Injector pulse drops off if fuel pressure fluctuates, it is a safety feature built into the vehicle. The only other source for the ignition relay or ignition switch shorting.
Then your problem is in the ignition switch, ignition relay area. replace both and see if that solves the problem. If neither works then you have a much bigger problem and will need dealer diagnostics to isolate it.
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FUEL PRESSURE IS GOOD AND IN SPEC RAIL SENSOR TEST GOOD AND FUEL PUMP OPERATING PROPERLY
fuel pressure is not the problem injector pulse drops off
FUEL PRESSURE IN SPEC WITH NEW IPS INSTALLED NO CHANGE
confirmed with logic probe lost after initial start cycle key and will start every time for a second or two then dies, continue cranking through and rpm ref and spark still present cam sensor shows constant inj ohms good fuel pressure in spec
IT FUNCTIONS AS WELL AS A NOID LIGHT AND TO ANSWER YOUR OTHER QUESTION YES I HAVE RUN THOSE TESTS AND YOUR COMMENT ABOUT I HAVE NO CLUE IS OUT OF LINE DON'T LET YOUR FORD EGO GO TO YOUR HEAD !!!!! I ALSO HAVE 30 YEARS EXP SEVERAL I N DEALERS AND HAVE OWNED A SMAAL SHOP WITH 7 BAYS AND 4 TECHS FOR 10 YEARS BUT HTIS AN OFF THE WALL PROBLEM AND I AM ASKING FOR ASSISTANCE NOT A LECTURE FOR YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I QUESS THE COMMENTS CAN NOT BE READ BY EVERYONE FUEL PRESSURE IS PRESENT RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR GOOD FUEL PRESSURE WITH IN SPEC ON SCANNER AND DIGITAL GAGE SPARK IS PRESENT RPM REF PRESENT AND WILL START AFTER EVERY KEY CYCLE THEN STALLS TRIED NEW PCM NOT THE PROBLEM
timing fine not the problem injector pulse drops out at times it may start and run for a period of time and run fine. have not ruled out poor connection but have never lost comunication with scan tool and still have spark and tach ref while cranking
no apparent signs of moisture intrusion or pin damage suspect wiring connection but all inputs and output appear to be communicating with scanner properly sensors readings are good coolant, air, mass air, crank and cam tried pcm with no success
im having the exact same issue with an 03 taurus dropping ground control b+ stays costant. did you ever figure it out?
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