The nut holding the steering wheel in place has been stripped. It may be possible to rethread. What is the size and thread count for this nut?

Before you do any work turn you steering to the 'straight ahead position.
This job will depend on if yours is fitted with an airbag. The versions with NO airbag usually have a push fit centre cap you can usually 'Gently' lever out to get access to the mounting nut.
The versions WITH an airbag usually have the centre cover bolted into place.
**If yours has an airbag REMOVE the battery wire BEFORE you start to prevent the airbag going off accidentally.** The heads for these bolts are on the back of the steering wheel and often in deep holes to hide them, so you'll be working blind trying to get them out. Different companies use different styles of bolt so the heads could be a cross head screw, a hex head (Allen key?) or a torx bolt so try one of each.
Once the bolts are out, CAREFULLY lift the airbag out and CAREFULLY disconnect the wire to the airbag. This is the trigger wire which make the airbag detonate. Put it safely to one side, I usually tuck it under the vehicle for safety.
Removing the actual steering wheel is the same for both types. There is a large nut in the centre holding the steering wheel in place. This nut will be tight so you might need a helper to hold the steering wheel still while you use a socket to loosen the nut the first half turn. DO NOT take the nut all the way off, leave it on two or three turns. This stops the wheel hitting you in the face if it comes off suddenly. Rock the wheel as you pull on it. It should come free with a little bit of effort. Remove the nut all the way off. Pay attention to where the airbag wire goes as you lift the old wheel off.
Refitting is the opposite of the above method. First thread the airbag wire into place, Position the wheel so it sits straight. Then fit the nut by hand until finger tight then tighten with a socket. The nut pushes the steering wheel into place so recheck that the nut does not unscrew easily. Refit the airbag wire to the airbag, remount the airbag and reconnect the battery.

They will need to be replaced,
Remove the studs easily with a good hit,
Sml lump hammer works better than a claw hammer!

I think you have the wrong puller. The screws are not the right size. There are usually several sets
of screws with the steering wheel puller. Are you sure you are using the correct screws?

There are usually 2 sets of screws with the puller that are the same size, but have different
number of threads per inch. So check to make sure you are using the right screws with the puller.

Where did you rent the puller?

1. Lift the hood. Remove the power-steering cap. Use the turkey baster to siphon as much fluid as possible from the power-steering pump reservoir. This is done to lessen the fluid loss when the hoses are removed.
   

2. 2

   Remove the two pressure hoses from the rear of the power-steering pump, using a wrench and common screwdriver. The high-pressure hose is threaded into the back of the pump while the lower-pressure hose is held on with a clamp.
   

3. 3

   Loosen the belt tensioner by using a wrench to move the tensioner away from the belt and removing the belt.
   

4. 4

   Place the power-steering pulley extractor tool on the nose of the pulley. The tool has two half shells that clamp around the lip on the nose of the pulley and around the lip of the tool. Thread the tool in until the shells fit on both the pulley and the tool lip. Install the circular metal band to keep the shells in place. Hold the threaded head of the tool with a wrench. With another appropriately sized wrench, turn the large nut above the shells counterclockwise to pull the pulley off.
   

5. 5

   Remove the bolts securing the pump to the support bracket. Remove the pump.
   

6. 6

   Install the new pump. Insert the securing bolts and tighten. Install the pulley by holding the pulley on the shaft while threading the extractor tool into the center hole of the shaft, with the shells removed. Hold the head of the threaded shaft with one wrench and turn the large nut clockwise with another wrench to push the pulley on the power-steering pump shaft.
   

7. 7

   Install the serpentine belt by pushing the tensioner away from the belt while wrapping the belt around the pulleys. Allow the tensioner to press on the belt, causing tension.
   

8. 8

   Install the two power-steering hoses. Fill the power-steering pump reservoir with power-steering fluid. Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, left and right several times to bleed all the air from the system. Check the fluid one more time.
   

Yes - the steering wheel can be removed, just be prepared for the wire to be smashed or mangles and unusable. Look on the back side of the steering wheel - you will see some small holes for the retaining screws for the center piece of the steering wheel. If your model has an airbag in the wheel you will need to disconnect the battery to prevent activating the airbag.Remove the panel below the steering wheel to access the harness for the airbag and unplug. Now remove those retaining screws and the center piece of the wheel. Now you will see a large nut on the center shaft of the column.Before you remove the center nut, look at how many threads are exposed above the nut before removing. Lock the steering wheel and remove that nut. Now you will need a steering wheel puller. Find the fasteners that fit your wheel and mount the puller, Turn the puller shaft 3 turns and try to remove wire - if it won't come out then you'll need to completely remove the wheel to extract the wire. Place the wheel back on the column shaft and use that center nut to re - install the steering wheel. You may need to place that nut socket over the shaft around the threaded part and tap lightly to seat the wheel far enough to use the nut to seat the wheel back down. Press steering wheel until it sits where it did in the beginning. Re - install center piece, plug in airbag and replace that lower panel. Your local auto parts store may have a steering wheel puller for rent - if not, they are not expensive to buy ( should be less than $10.00 USD).
Hope this helps!!

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

hi from uk the retain screws are for holding the rotor/disc in position so when wheel bolts are removed they can be easily refitted as rotor will not move off line the screws play no part in brakes and the wheel bolts or nuts are what secure the wheels and rotors in place SO if screw head has stripped ? you can use a drill with bit size of head of screw and drill the head off screw then remove rotor you can then try vice grips to remove screw but if not possible you can fit rotor and reassemble brakes hope this helps

If you have a stripped lug nut on your vechicle, the best thing is to take the vehicle to a tire shop and have them remove the nut. You can drive missing one nut tempoarily. They have universal tools for removing wheel locks and this will work for this application. You will need a new nut.
If you have a stripped wheel stud, these are available at your local parts store. To remove the stud you will need a small sledge hammer. when the wheel and brake drum/rotor is off, the stud should be exposed. There should be a hole in the backing plate of the axle and this is where the stud needs to be lined up with. Hammer the stud out through the hole. Next, replace with the new stud. To seat the stud on the splined area you need to press the stud into place. Using a number of flat wahers, place them on the threaded part of the stud until only 5 threads are showing. Turn on the new nut and tighten the nut until the stud is pulled into place. You may need to remove the nut and add more washers to seat the stud. Hope this helps.

1966 Olds 98?
It's been a while, so bear with me. The main objective is to remove the steering wheel, to have access to the turn signal switch.

1.Negative battery cable disconnected

2.I believe you twist the horn button in the middle of the steering wheel, and pull up, to remove. The horn button should have a ring of thick rubber on the bottom, which keeps it in the steering wheel. The chrome piece under the horn button may come off with it, or it stays on the steering wheel. This is the part that is fuzzy to remember.

3.Remove the steering wheel nut, and lock washer.

4.If you do not have a steering wheel puller, go to your nearest auto parts store, and see if one is available to rent. The cost of this puller is relatively low, so you may just want to go ahead, and purchase one. While you're there you need to obtain another tool also. Steering Wheel Lock Plate Tool.

5.After the horn button is removed, and the steering wheel nut, you will see a flat metal area of the steering wheel. On each side of the threaded part of the steering column shaft, there are two small threaded holes, in this flat metal area.

The steering wheel puller, is a bar shaped piece of metal, that has a threaded hole in the middle. There is a threaded shaft that goes into this hole. On each end of the metal bar are slots. Threaded bolts go through these slots, and line up with the two threaded holes in the steering wheel. There is a pointed tip, that rotates on the threaded shaft, of the steering wheel puller. This pointed tip goes in the middle of the steering wheel shaft. (The shaft that you removed the nut from)

Find the two correct threaded bolts in the steering wheel puller kit, that matches the threads in the steering wheel holes. They HAVE to be the correct size, AND the correct thread. (Fine thread, or Coarse thread. They will be SAE thread, and not Metric) If the puller does not come with bolts, or the correct bolts, you'll have to purchase them separately.

Place the puller on top of the steering wheel shaft. Run the threaded shaft of the puller down, until at least 3 to 4 threads of the shaft, are showing on the steering wheel side. Now place a threaded bolt in the slot on the outside part of the bar.

Run the bolt down into the steering wheel threaded hole on one side. Make sure it goes in at least 1/2 inch. Do the same with the threaded bolt for the other side.
Adjust the length of the threaded shaft of the puller, so that the two outside bolts will go in as advised. Adjust the threaded shaft out, or in. Be SURE the two threaded bolts, are threaded down into the steering wheel the same depth, and the bolts are the same length!

Now turn the threaded shaft of the steering wheel puller in, with a ratchet and socket, to remove the steering wheel. (Turn the shaft to the Right)

6.Now remove the steering wheel lock ring. The steering wheel lock ring tool is now used.
There is a cylindrical shaped piece that has threads on the inside of it, and has a hole at the top, that a lock pin slides through, for the above tool. This cylindrical shaped piece is threaded down onto the steering wheel shaft.

The tool has a handle shaped like a screwdriver handle, and a shaft attached to the handle. The shaft goes down into the cylindrical shaped piece. Then the lock pin goes through the cylindrical shaped piece, and also a hole in the shaft of the tool. This lock pin locks the cylindrical shaped piece to the shaft of the tool.

BEFORE the cylindrical shaped piece is pinned to the shaft, you slide a U shaped piece up on the shaft. (Thought it would be better to explain it this way)
The opening of the U, goes down towards the steering wheel. It's U shaped to clear the steering wheel shaft.

As you turn the handle of the tool to the right, it pushes the U shaped piece down. The U shaped piece then depresses the steering wheel lock ring down.
(There is a Thick metal spring under the steering wheel lock ring)

You have to take a metal pick, and a small flat tip screwdriver, and remove the round snap ring. May take a little finesse, and a few tries. Use patience. Now back the steering wheel lock ring tool off. (Turn to the Left) The steering wheel lock ring will come up, so that you can take it off. Remove the spring. Remove the plastic horn contact assembly. Now you can see the screws to remove the turn signal switch.

Here's another thought - if the stud isn't too badly stripped, you may be able to use a re-threading die to restore the threads. The thread type and size will depned on the make and model of your car. An autmotive parts store can usually help with this.
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If you must replace the stud,

A bad stud can usually be driven out through the back of the axle flange. You said the stud was stripped. You can:

Force one of the lug nuts onto the stripped stud maybe two to three turns , then take a drift pin and drive the stud out the back. The stud will have grooves that hold it in place on the axle flange. You willl hhave to hold the stud head with vice grips and remove the lug nut to get the stud out.

To install a new stud, insert it from the back, add a little grease to the knurls (grooves) and pull it into place with a lug nut. The stud must be firmly seated in the axle flange.