Ignition replaced but need code - 2003 Nissan Altima

If you changed the switch you will have to go to the dealer and get the key coded. Ignition keys are coded to the specific computer and the key has to come from the dealer who knows the codes. This is what I had to do on my Camero. If this does not help call your Chevy dealer and ask them if they can code the right key.

Code 12 is a Pass- no codes detected. So that's no help. The damp weather is affecting your ignition system components or the associated wiring and their connectors, or it could possibly be a low fuel pressure problem. Also, if your spark plug wires are original equipment (like nearly 25 years old now), that may be the problem. If spark plugs have more than 30,000 miles of use, replace the plugs.
I would have the fuel pressure checked to eliminate fuel pressure as a problem. See if you need new spark plugs and plug wires. If no help, the ignition system will need attention-you should have it diagnosed by a well equipped shop to fully analyze the ignition system. Otherwise, you are just guessing in the dark and replacing parts that should be tested.

Here is the entire description for the code -

When is the code detected?When the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not sent to Engine Control Module (ECM) during engine cranking or running.

Symptoms- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

P1320 NISSAN Description The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM) is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit
Possible causes - Faulty power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted (circuit to ignition coils)
- Ignition primary circuit poor electrical connection (circuit to ignition coils)
- Faulty ignition system condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor circuit

Help with this Tech notes The most common cause that will trigger the P1320 code is the ignition coils, one or more ignition coils may have failed. Even tough the coils may be working OK, the resistance for one or more of the coils is greater or smaller that what the Engine Control Module (ECM) is expecting. Measuring the resistance with the coil out of the vehicle may not show any failures, usually the coil fails under heavy conditions (hard acceleration) or certain temperatures.

The P1320 code means that there is problem with the "Ignition Coil" or the wire to the ignition coil. For some models without individual ignition coils the Ignition Coil is inside the distributor and the distributor need to be replaced to fix the problem.
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1320_nissan.html#ixzz2EJsrz4BZ

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1320_nissan.html#ixzz2EJsktmXX

Code 14 means igniter signal to ECU missing and a code 24 means intake air temperature signal fault or your air temperature sensor is bad and needs replaced.As for the igniter i would check all of the connections and the ground going to it.If it still does'nt work replace the igniter.

unlike setting code for radio when you disconnect or replace battery...hum...did u buy new or used...if used get vin from that car and call dealership...if you got new...call dealership....LOL...hell...this has not happened to me YET......been through the radio thing...replaced with used sony/am/fm/cd/ cut all that anti-theif **** taped ends of wires....end of story....codes/codes/codes/ love my ole honda but **** did they overdo the reset code thing. maybe a local pro can bypass and unhook or cut some wires,,,,,,not me ...i would end up with a mess and $$$$$$$$wish i could do better...maybe someone with a bit more experence can get u through this! good luck!

code po690 power control module power relay sense circuit high voltage.

Typically code 24 is reserved for the ecu to ignition amplifier. Recheck your fault code by just switching the ignition to "on", wait 5 seconds, then re-check your code(s). Code 24 is uncommon, and very few people have documented this

Other possibilitie is the ignition amplifier is bad or the connection is corroded. The part is easy to get to, and is easily replaceable, but I would not suggest trying to test it yourself unless you know how to use a voltmeter.

If you want to replace it I would first buy a Haynes manual and follow the instructions (they have pictures).

Check additional details in the Jaguar Online Manual in this link: jag-lovers.org/ebooks-index; check the section 10 Engine >> 10.14 Ignition amplifier module (need to register for free).

Also, check this interesting info AJ6 4.0L Engine Management System Diagnostic Guide (pdf format).

Hope this helps; keep us updated.

P1391 - Not a valid obd code.
B1391 - Oil Level Switch Circuit Failure
C1391 - Not a valid obd code.
U1391 - Not a valid obd code.
Its possible you may have misread this code. If it is B1391 that would be the only code with 1391 for your vehicle.

P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction. The ignition signal from the Powertrain Control Module or Electronic Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns ON and OFF the ignition coil primary circuit. This ON/OFF operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

Possible Causes:
- Open or short in the ignition coil circuit
- Ignition coil circuit shorted to ground
- Ignition coil connector
- Damaged ignition coil
- Damaged PCM

P0352 - Ignition Coil B Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction.
Same repair info as P0351.

P0353 - Ignition Coil C Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction.
Same repair info as P0351



Solutions:
- If damage, repair ignition coil circuit
- Replaced ignition coil
- Replaced PCM or ECM

The Ignition switch could help and it is an inexpensive part to try. I would also try to get hold of a scanner and see if the computer is working and showing any problem Codes.

The recoding process is different even within the same Manufacturer. Usually you have a Coded key and insert it into the Ignition, then remove it and turn the Ignition 4 times or hit the Doorlock button 4 times and insert the blank key. The Ignition imprints the blank with the computer access code.

A bad Ignition switch would prevent the Codes from going through the key. But you may have to use a Vin# if you do not have a Coded key to duplicate and you will need to go through a Dealer.

Once the dealer hooks up their computer and activates the ignition you shouldn't need to go back, The code that you were given is usually just a temp code to get you to the dealer.