#1. A wheel bearing should not lock up the rear end. #2. Sounds like you have a far worse problem, probably in the differential. To replace the wheel bearing you need to remove the diff cover, take out the spider gear pin remove the locking c clip and remove the axle. Obviously the left rear wheel and rotor and caliper have to be removed as well. then the bearing ,which is pressed into the housing needs to be removed. If the bearing is that bad the axle will need to be replaced as well.
SOURCE: wheel bearing
u have to take the hub off. and press the wheel bearing out. it takes alittle time to do bc u have to take your rotor and brake assembly off to get to the hub.
SOURCE: noise in front end, sounds
You say the rear wheel axles and bearings have been replaced, you mention nothing of the front wheels, you have the symptoms of a front wheel bearing being worn out, remove them and check for pitting in the bearing rollers or the bearing races, I am sure you will find a problem. Hope this helps solve your issue with the bearing noise.
SOURCE: Rear end noise from front wheel drive car
At that mileage it could be, and most likely is given your description of the noise. I assume it reduces in volume as you slow down. If you can find a quite piece of road drive up to where the noise is apparent and lightly swerve from left to right. (Don't roll the car!! ) If the noise reduces as you swerve left then its the left bearing. If its when you swerve right that the noise reduces its the right bearing. If its both the only way is to jack the rear up and spin the wheels as fast as you can and listen. If there's a hint of a rumble from it, its that bearing or both. It should be completely quite apart from the slight hiss as the shoes rub on the drum.
35K may not seem much but if you don't know the history of the car it could have hit a bad pot hole or even had a knock on a kerb.
I have replaced bearing with a lot less miles than yours.
Cheers John
SOURCE: wheels making binding noises when turning
I have this same problem with my 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2 Wagon. There is a Subaru Service Bulletin #16-62-97 dated 5/16/97 with a Subject entitled "Transfer Clutch Binding And/Or Bucking On Turns". There is also an important follow-up to it numbered 16-64-99 dated 09/15/99 entitled "Revised Transfer Clutch Assembly Replacement Procedures" that should also be used should you decide to go ahead with the transfer clutch replacement.
I just got these Service Bulletins from my mechanic who got them from a Subaru dealer.
The estimate was about $700-$1000 to fix. This is more than likely the cause of the binding problem on slow, sharp turns.
Dan Hunt
Danbury, CT
CAUTION: The rear brake anti-lock sensor must be removed before the axle shafts are removed. The rear brake anti-lock sensor is bolted on the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate. 
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage oil seal or bearing assembly. CAUTION: Differential pinion shaft lock pin must be tightened to specification using Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA (WSK-M2G349-A1) or equivalent. CAUTION: Make sure machined surfaces on both axle housing cover and rear axle housing are clean before installing the new silicone sealant. Inside of axle must be covered when cleaning the machined surface to prevent axle contamination. Tighten the cover bolts in a crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on axle housing cover . CAUTION: Installation of rear wheel bearing or inner wheel bearing oil seal assembly without proper tool may result in an early bearing or seal failure. If inner wheel bearing oil seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install a new one. 243 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×