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Anonymous Posted on Jul 07, 2017

What else can I do to remedy hard brake pedal pressure and poor braking (only the left front works)? I replaced all four calipers and the master cylinder. Only the left front caliper can be bled. Flui

I went with the theory that fluid return to the master was blocked, or that an individual caliper or two was binding, thus the replacements. In fact, two calipers and pads were burned up - couldn't depress the caliper cylinder to replace the pads. I cannot find any pinched brake lines, but a couple brake lines should be replaced soon for rust. The ABS warning light does not come on. I suspect the ABS unit. Please help. Thanks,

1 Answer

Dan Hooper

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  • Chrysler Master 4,523 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2017
Dan Hooper
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I would change the rubber flex hose that goes from the body to the suspension.

5 Related Answers

Frank Chen

  • 330 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 26, 2008

SOURCE: new brakes

Still have air inside, because you used gravity feed method.

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Thomas F. Schneider

  • 2715 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: brake pedal will not depress

Let the fluid out of the master cylinder or from a line. If the pedel  then goes down w/o the fluid, then the booster is working ok. Rebuild or replace the master cylinder. 

Anonymous

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2009

SOURCE: i have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock

If the pedal drops to the floor without you stepping on it or with very little effort then i would say bad booster or bad check valve on the vacuum line going to the booster. Hops this helps.

Patrick Rayome

  • 1757 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 01, 2010

SOURCE: Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels.

Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

james dunn

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2011

SOURCE: I replaced the left rear caliper and bled the

open bleeder see if it releases. if it does , replace brake hose

Testimonial: "i got the same answer from another site. I have not replaced the hose yet, but am going to try that.Thanks for your response."

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2002 Dodge Dakota club, 3.9 auto. Brake pedal is soft, brakes but no resistance, pedal almost to floor. Changed booster and master cylinder, same issue

You have air trapped in the braking system somewhere. Have you bled the system thoroughly at all four wheels?
Have you changed the front calipers recently. Many years ago, I helped a friend mount new calipers on his vehicle, and we put the new calipers on the wrong side -- right one on the left side and vice versa. In this configuration, the bleeder screw wound up on the lower portion of the caliper instead of at the top, where it needs to be to allow trapped air to come out. Just a thought.
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What is next? Brake pressure is non-existent on all but front left. Pedal pressure is very hard. Replaced all calipers and master cylinder. Fluid does not exit nipple when bled on all but left front.

Its possible that your rubber lines are collapsed. I've had them keep fluid from going thru as well as not releasing pressure. See if fluid gets to caliper thru rubber. You can plug it with your finger and release pedal. If you feel vacuum and fluid flows well when you push brake, that's probably not the problem. Its somewhere to start tho.
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Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.
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I just replaced my front rotors, pads, and calipers on a 98 olds achieva. After doing this I bled the the front brakes but am now experiencing a very soft pedal. I am wondering if something else could be...

Because of the ABS system if you press the brake pedal with too much pressure then it will give you the illusion of a soft pedal. Does it feel like a soft pedal when the vehical is in motion and you then press on the brake pedal (normal)? The other thing is if your pads and/or caliper were frozen, when you changed them out. The brakes are not going to feel or brake exactly the same, after the repair. But you are there, if the pedal is real low or goes to the floor then there is still air in the system or for some reason, your master cylinder is defective.
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either your calipers are sticking and need replacing. OR the hoses have failed internally. and need replacing.. very rare but possible the master cylinder is not allowing the fluid to return usually caused bu a booster failing and causing some down travel in the master cylinder. I'd start by raising the front end up. appling hard brake pressure. turn the tire.. then loosen the brake bleeder to check for pressure. if the bleeder sprays fluid and the brakes release forget the calipers. if they are still tight then replace the calipers. pump them up again if they released.. and break the line free at the master cylinder. if they don't release then replace the hoses..
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Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.
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hello rule of thumb never push pistons back on calipers without master cyl cover off pressure blows seal out on mastercylinder what you need do is from the firthest wheel pass rear bleed first then drivers rear then pass front to drivers side to mastercyl lines rear to front sounds like trapped air in proportioning valve with two people pump pedal up 3-4 hold take cover off master watch brake fluid take foot off brake pedal quick watch for air bubbles or small geiser like movement you need to work the air out reinstall cap repeat again if needed there shouldnt be any ripples when the peddle is let go if rear calipers have built in emergency brakes use emergency brake to wind caliper piston a few times goodluck
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hello i think you should have the system power bleed with a power bleeder theres a good chance the plunger in the proportioning valve is sticking if you have this truck power bleed it will push out the old fluid replacing with new usually if theres any type of contaminates especially oil ,or power stewering put into master by mistake it would swell any rubber piece to the point of a hard pedal and nothing working then you would have to replace everthing like your being told the only thing you could still use would be the lines wich would have to be cleaned with denature alcahol i would have it bleed in sequence firthest tire down to the closest to the master goodluck
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