The items that cause changes in the air/fuel mixture are
Heated oxygen sensor( in the exhaust manifolds before the cat converters
Map sensor
Baro sensor
Maf/vaf sensors
intake leaks ( vent on canister , vacuum hoses etc )
failed cat converter blocking exhaust system
The first place I would look at is the heated oxygen sensor(HO2S) as it has rather delicate wires that regularly fail and that causes erratic messages to the ECM
SOURCE: Ford Contour apparently starves for gas, dies.
tell your mechanic to replace the fuel filter. This part is usually less than $10. It should be replaced aout every 50K miles.
SOURCE: My 99 ford explorer doesn't want to start on cold
Change the coolant temp sensor.The sensor could be sending warm up signal,all the time.
SOURCE: TOO LEAN CODES
yes very very common code for these motors i get them all the time. now the first thing i do is listen to the pcv valve for noise if it is rattling this is the problem and is the most common of all. another thing is the intakes leak from cracks in them but the only way to find it is with a smoke machine. now the one other thing i have seen before is debre like a leaf in the mass air flow sensor but you have replaced it so most likely no that.
do your self a favor and change the pcv valve it only cost under 5 dollars. if this is not it you will need to find the leak in and around the intake or a vacuum hose.
because you have two lean banks this mean if it is a leak then it has to be in common with both banks and that is the vacuum line system intake etc...
let mew know if you have any more question. good luck man
SOURCE: Our 1985 Ford F-150 V8 truck keeps cutting off. We
could be the cam sensor....and maybe cracked cap, bad plugs cloged fuel filter bad wires...
Engine stalls cold or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control. If the above cleaning doesn't cure your issues you need to have the computer controlled automatic idle speed control system diagnosed and repaired by a dealer or electronic engine control repair shop.
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