20 Most Recent 1995 Ford F250 Questions & Answers

You may have a bad signal switch..Your brake lights run through the signal switch..Try hitting the brakes and move the switch around and see if your brake lights come on intermittently..

should be on the top of the trannie, some have them internall yin the Rear end, very few but some do

Thats how I have done it on 2006 250. No C clamp.

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

Did you check the fuel pressure? Also I have found the fuel pressure regulator screen getting gunked up to cause random shut off while driving. Prior to that it would start losing mileage and feeling sluggish.

I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here Ford F150 F250 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1993 2003 DOWNLOAD

Did you put the ECM in from a donor vehicle? (Used). It might have to be reflashed as it sounds like compatibility issues. Make sure the ECM has the EXACT SAME NUMBERS in the ID as your previous ECM. If not, then you will need to get the exact match to get rid of the gremlins.

check the brake wire in the vehicle plug for power when the brake is applied

Please don't forget to rate!




Disconnect and remove the TP sensor from beneath the throttle body



View of the throttle position sensor mounting-4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L MFI engines shown, others similar





Exploded view of the throttle body mounting-5.0L and 5.8L engines

Next to the thermostat housing which is where the top radiator hose connects to the engine.

Remove the motor mount for another freeze plug is behind it

I would check to see if the hood release moves when the inside lever is pulled then pushed, if not the cable and latch mechanism may need lubrication or be broken.

Can't tell you that without an engine size.

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important) . You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

It doesn't have one. The hall effect sensor in the distributor does that job.

You likely have a bad canister vent valve.

You likely have a leak in either the clutch master or slave and you need to resolve that before attempting to bleed. Bleeding on that vehicle can be very, very difficult because the bleeder is at the bottom and the air will tend to rise to the top.