Replaced oil pan gasket 2003 ford taurus with 211,000 miles. ran fine that night then next day rocker arms loose. i took off valve cover lifters are not collapsed. is valve springs wore can i put washers under rocker nuts as no more adjustment or use longer pushrods until she gets money if valve springs wore.

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Rick M

Ford Master 4,148 Answers
Posted on Dec 26, 2017

Rick M

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If this all happened after pan gasket change, chances are you knocked the oil pump pickup and the pump is sucking air. You've lost oil pressure. Fix that. Do NOT add washers. That's not your problem.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

625 Answers
Posted on May 28, 2008

SOURCE: 2003 F-350 6.0 TDI, Front Main Seal, Head Gaskets, and Valve Cover Gaskets

ok make sure to check or replace the unexpensive pcv valve
if that one is cloged it will coause all kind of leaks even whit new seals

and on the head gaskets problem i will recomend to get your radiator serviced or replaced because 90% of the mechanics check your radiator for cloged lines but they always do it at the top and by gravity all the garbache acumulate on the bottom, if you don't beleive it ask your mechanic hos does he inspect your radiator

Anonymous

962 Answers
Posted on Nov 02, 2008

SOURCE: '89 2.9l, 194,000 mile Ranger

Stuck Valve.Or just about ready to stick.

Anonymous

1118 Answers
Posted on Jan 08, 2009

SOURCE: Rocker arm and pushrod have a gap of about a quarter inch, noisy,

you might want to try tapping it back in, but only if you got a brass drift as that will not mare the stud or threads. back in the day i would drill and pin each one to keep them from pulling out. as this was a commen problem with early ford and chevy high R.P.M. engines. that went away when someone invented the screw in stud. but you can drill and pin each one with out pulling off the heads it can be a chore but its a cheep fix compaired to the alternative. also did you replace the lifters? i ask this because if one was stuck maybe the rest will stick too. i am a chevy person, but i am a little parcel to fords as thats what i had in the day a 1967 fastback 289 4 speed. hope this helps.

Jason Phillips

500 Answers
Posted on Jul 05, 2009

SOURCE: timming chain cover coolent leak 1997 ford explorer 4.0 pushrod

no they dont make a partial gasket kit... unless youve damaged the oil pan gasket, the one that ison there should be fine... put some black silicone rtv sealant where the front cover and oil pan/ block meet. if youve damaged the gasket you have to drop the pan.

Marvin

85242 Answers
Posted on Oct 19, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 ford focus oil leak

Sounds like the valve cover gasket, clean off all the oil on the engine with a pressure washer or a steam cleaner and then drive it and recheck for the leak, that way you can pin it down for sure.

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Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

In engines with rocker arm valve systems, the procedure I'm familiar with is to remove a rocker arm cover, and (one at a time!) while the engine is running, slowly back off the rocker arm retainer nut or bolt just until you hear the lifter tapping, then tighten it a quarter turn. If you can identify a lifter that is already tapping, tighten its rocker arm slowly until it stops tapping, then adjust it. Do not over-tighten! This can damage the engine.

Listen carefully to how the engine sounds; if it starts to stumble when you tighten a loose rocker arm, you've gone too far. If you cannot get the engine to run well without tapping, you may have too much wear in the valve train and may be due for a head overhaul, or you don't have adequate oil pressure in the lifters in question.
Repeat until all rocker arms are done. Replace the rocker arm cover using a new gasket, then (in a V-engine), repeat the procedure on the other side of the engine.

Wearing safety goggles, or better yet, a transparent face shield, is strongly recommended. Sometimes oil will squirt out a considerable distance from the lifter side of the rocker arm during adjustment, and the direction is not readily predictable.

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Apr 03, 2015 • Cars & Trucks

1helpful

6answers

Lifter is making loud tapping sound like rocker roller is hitting valve cover, and it squeals when I first start the car. This is a new reconditioned 455 pontiac trans am. 325 miles. is this serious or is...

here is the truth if the lifter is gone no adjustments can be done they will have to be changed it will not do serious harm it will just go tick tick louder and louder the lifter can do this beacuse of to things ,,,its worn out or the oil pump is not pumping the oil up right ,,,,,,

Read full answer

Jul 28, 2008 • Pontiac Firebird Cars & Trucks

0helpful

1answer

What causes engine knocking and stronger engine knocking at higher speeds?

Some details here:
COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Read full answer

Aug 22, 2012 • 2004 Dodge Intrepid

2helpful

1answer

Clicking noise when accelerating

Hi there: first, check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Read full answer

Aug 06, 2012 • 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer

0helpful

1answer

Knocking when cold starts

Hi there:
Before to thnik isn some replacement, I suggest to check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Read full answer

Jun 27, 2012 • 1999 Ford Expedition

0helpful

1answer

Truck made loud noise while driving on freeway.once turned off ,would not start.we replaced starter and silonoid and a fuse that blew.truck started and ran fine until we took it on the freeway again 3 days...

Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Read full answer

Jun 05, 2012 • Cars & Trucks

0helpful

3answers

I have a loud ticking under my valve cover. 97 ford escort. I think its a loose valve but is it some thing i can fix. I know a little about cars. but not an expert

not a valve, but a lifter. I will paste procedure below. You judge if you can do it or not. Recommend you replace them all while you're in there. If you let this go, the lifter will wear out the camshaft. Lifters are $22 each, and you have 8 of them. You will also need a new valve cover gasket.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

2.0L Engine
SOHC engine
See Figures 6, 7, 8 and 9

Disconnect the engine air cleaner-to-valve cover hose from the cover by compressing the hose clamp with pliers and sliding the clamp back, then separate the hose from the cover.
Remove the spark plug wire separators from the valve cover and set the wire assemblies aside.
Unfasten the three valve cover retaining bolts.
Remove the valve cover and gasket from the cylinder head.
WARNING Do not use any abrasive grinding discs to remove gasket material. Use a plastic manual gasket scraper to remove the gasket residue. Be careful not to scratch or gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces when cleaning them.

Remove the old gasket material from the cylinder head and valve cover mating surfaces.

Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the spark plug wire separators from the valve cover

Fig. Fig. 7: Compress the engine air cleaner-to-valve cover hose clamp with pliers, and slide the clamp back ...

Fig. Fig. 8: ... then disconnect the hose from the valve cover

Fig. Fig. 9: Unfasten the valve cover retainers and remove the valve cover-2.0L SOHC engine

If removing more than one valve lifter (tappet), mark the lifters and their locations as they must be installed in their original bores.

Remove the rocker arm(s).
Unfasten the lifter guide plate retainer.
Remove the guide plate and the lifter.

To install:

The oil feed hole in the lifter must face away from the oil feed hole in the cylinder head.
Lubricate the lifter(s) with clean 5W-30 engine oil and install them in their original bores.

Make sure the lifter guide plate retainer tabs are towards the rear of the cylinder head, and the lifter guide plate tabs are towards the front of the cylinder head.

Install the lifter guide plate and tighten the retainer.
Install the rocker arms.

Do not use any sealer with a silicone type gasket.

Install a new gasket and the valve cover.
Install and tighten the valve cover retainers to 71-97 inch lbs. (8-11.5 Nm).
Attach the spark plug wire separators to the cylinder head.
Connect the engine air cleaner-to-valve cover hose and engage the hose clamp

Read full answer

Jan 19, 2011 • Ford Escort Cars & Trucks

4helpful

3answers

Vortec 4.3 Ticking that is present at start-up and speeds up as I accelerate, what would cause this?

If you have good oil pressure, a few things come to mind, first it could be a loose rocker, secound it could be a woren or broken rocker, third it could be a weak or calaps lifter. If it sounds like its lower in the engine like around the oil pan it could be a rod or maine problem. But you say its a ticking noise witch leads me to believe its a valve trane problem.

Read full answer

Jan 13, 2010 • 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2helpful

2answers

1977 malibu classic 5.7liter eng. i accidentally ran a qt low of oil and notice a lil clicking .upon noticing it i added some oil it persists come to find out the rocker arm slipt off the seat and the...

it sounds like the valve lifter may have collapsed try an engine flush if this doesnt help you will have to replace the lifters

Read full answer

Jan 02, 2010 • 2008 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

0helpful

2answers

Roker Arms

sounds like your lifter are damaged if your rocker are loose you may need to replace cam and lifters

Read full answer

Nov 04, 2008 • 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais

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2003 Taurus

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Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

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Related Questions:

Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

Lifter is making loud tapping sound like rocker roller is hitting valve cover, and it squeals when I first start the car. This is a new reconditioned 455 pontiac trans am. 325 miles. is this serious or is...

What causes engine knocking and stronger engine knocking at higher speeds?

Clicking noise when accelerating

Knocking when cold starts

Truck made loud noise while driving on freeway.once turned off ,would not start.we replaced starter and silonoid and a fuse that blew.truck started and ran fine until we took it on the freeway again 3 days...

I have a loud ticking under my valve cover. 97 ford escort. I think its a loose valve but is it some thing i can fix. I know a little about cars. but not an expert

Vortec 4.3 Ticking that is present at start-up and speeds up as I accelerate, what would cause this?

1977 malibu classic 5.7liter eng. i accidentally ran a qt low of oil and notice a lil clicking .upon noticing it i added some oil it persists come to find out the rocker arm slipt off the seat and the...

Roker Arms

Not finding what you are looking for?

2003 Taurus

Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

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Related Topics:

1 Answer

Rick M

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Anonymous

Anonymous

Anonymous

Jason Phillips

Marvin

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Attachments: Added items

Related Questions:

Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

Lifter is making loud tapping sound like rocker roller is hitting valve cover, and it squeals when I first start the car. This is a new reconditioned 455 pontiac trans am. 325 miles. is this serious or is...

What causes engine knocking and stronger engine knocking at higher speeds?

Clicking noise when accelerating

Knocking when cold starts

Truck made loud noise while driving on freeway.once turned off ,would not start.we replaced starter and silonoid and a fuse that blew.truck started and ran fine until we took it on the freeway again 3 days...

I have a loud ticking under my valve cover. 97 ford escort. I think its a loose valve but is it some thing i can fix. I know a little about cars. but not an expert

Vortec 4.3 Ticking that is present at start-up and speeds up as I accelerate, what would cause this?

1977 malibu classic 5.7liter eng. i accidentally ran a qt low of oil and notice a lil clicking .upon noticing it i added some oil it persists come to find out the rocker arm slipt off the seat and the...

Roker Arms

Not finding what you are looking for?

2003 Taurus

Ok so ik I'm posting allot haha but does anyone know where or how to adjust lifters just found out mine r just now needed adjustment in near mount Vernon WA or a price at least haha

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