1997 Plymouth Voyager 3.3 dies at idle hesitates during acceleration
Dies at every other stop light. When first accelerating hesitation happens then you give it more gas and it takes off. Have replace plugs,plugwires,throttle position sensor, air filter, pcv valve, cleaned throttle body, new fuel pump and filter, doesn't throw a code on a code reader, had dealership run tests with no results. They thought it was throttle position sensor and the throttle body plate needed to be cleaned, but I had already done this before bringing it in. The looked at the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. Thought they were o.k. Changed parts of the wiring harness hoping that maybe I had a bad wire. No luck! At first it would die at an idle a couple of times a month. Slowly started happening more often. Now it dies every other stop. Also when you first give it gas to take off the vehicle bogs down or hesitates during the first bit of acceleration only- then you give it a little more gas and it jerks and takes off, almost like there is a dead spot in the accelerator pedal. Barely give it gas and it dies or hesitates and give it more gas and takes off with a jolt. (throws you back in your seat a little) The dealership had van in shop for 3 days and couldn't find the problem. Largest Mopar dealership in Seattle. 3 different top mechanics there tried everything and had no luck... Please help...This van ran great until it had this problem. Starts up everytime with no problems.
no codes thrown, both the dealership has checked, firestone and another personal mechanic. I'll check for vacuum issues. the only vacuum issues I haven't check are the transmission.no codes thrown, both the dealership has checked, firestone and another personal mechanic. I'll check for vacuum issues. the only vacuum issues I haven't check are the transmission.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
A lot of new parts! Have a compression test done to gauge the engine's internal condition, and go from there. If compression is good on all 6 cylinders, scan for trouble codes. The compression test may find your problem, something like an exhaust valve burned or not seating properly.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Might be corroded contact points where the ignition wires plug into the distributor or connect to the spark plugs. Could also be moisture or corrosion inside the distributor itself.
CHECK FUEL PRESSURE MUST BE 3.0 BARS AND MUST NOT DROP UNDER 2 .0 BARS AFTER 10 MINUTES.LET ME KNOW IF U NEED MORE INFO AND TELL ME THE RESULTS OF THE ABOVE.
You may have two different problems. The rich mixture could be several things including a faulty O2 sensor or leaking injector. If a sensor fails it should set a code in the computer. The stalling could be a dirty throttle body or a problem with the idle speed control valve.
A long list of things. Is the check engine light on when you are driving ? Have you checked the fuel pressure after replacing the pump ? Have you checked the throttle position sensor ?
there is a wiring harness that goes over the trans. bellhousing that has a tendacy
to short internally, wiggle the wiring harness and see what happens. not a for sure fix ,but hope it helps.
could be the type of plug you are using.I was told only to use ngk plugs.I recently put bosch plugs in my mazda 3 and the check engine light came on and it started missfiring.
no codes thrown, both the dealership has checked, firestone and another personal mechanic. I'll check for vacuum issues. the only vacuum issues I haven't check are the transmission.
×