Was driving and just stalled with no signs of anything wrong, allready changed the distributor, coil ohms out good on primary side, but it only ohms at 4.5k ohm on secondary... codes: p1400 and p0375 or somthing like that both of witch deal with the knock sensor but that wont make it not run, crank position sensor ohms at 485 and is normal anything it could be/common problems with these symptoms?
SOURCE: engine shut off while driving, cranks over.
Hi, I had the same problem, no spark. I check coil it was good, check the injectors for pulse they are fine, I checked the four wire harnes conected to the distributor are fine, I check resistance at the power transistor in top of the air filter assembly and it was wrong, I just replaced the power transistor and the car is running good again.
I hope this help you.
Thanks
SOURCE: nissan altima crank positioning sensor
What is the actual code? I have a feeling you are misinterpreting the code.
First, verify all connections at distributor (both ends of each cable) are securely connected and inspect all lengths of each plug wire to make sure there are no major breaks, cuts, burns, abrasions that would be causing a short. Then, try another plug just to make sure it's not a bad spark/coil wire. If still no spark, then I would say rotor/distributor cap/distributor/ICM module (Ignition Control Module) is the problem. You can generally buy those parts seperate, or you can buy a whole distributor that typically has all combined. The ICM can usually be removed without too much difficulty and taken to an autoparts store for a test, but not always. If you go with the "piecemeal" solution, start with ICM test (if removable), then rotor cap, then move to distrubutor cap. If nothing has worked to this point, you can replace the distributor, but you have already bought everything BUT the actual distributor. It would make sense to price everything seperately versus cost of new distributor...up to you.
If you do replace the distributor, be absolutely sure to mark the position/direction the rotor cap is pointed on old one, so you can re-install the new one in exact same position. Otherwise finding TDC (top dead center) on #1 cylinder is another whole process.
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