Installation of driveaxle passenger side - 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

IF YOU HAVE THE AF23-5 TRANSAXLE OR THE VT25- E VTI. TRANSAXLE YOU NEED A SCAN TOOL TO MONITORING TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE WHILE CHECKING TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE.YOUR VECHICLE TRANSAXLE DONT HAVE A DIP STICK TO CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL.YOUR TRANSMISSION HAS A DRAIN PLUG LOCATED BOTTOM OF TRANSAXLE BELOW FORWARD OF THE RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE DRIVEAXLE FACING RIGHT SIDE OF VECHICLE.YOUR VECHICLE HAS TO BE RAISED LEVEL ON A LIFT.TO CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID.YOUR TRANSMISSION IS A DEALERSHIP FIX.WAY TRANSMISSION SET UP DEALERSHIP HAS TO CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID.

Since you're looking at the driveaxles and not the wheels, I'll presume the vehicle is lifted. If that's true, this is normal with an open differential. There is nothing to control how much power goes to which wheel, and whichever sees the most turning resistance will stop.

I suppose another possibility is that the spinning driveaxle is not inserted all the way into the wheel hub. Though I can't imagine how you would get the axle nut on like that.

If it's all fully assembled and on the ground, the differential is broken and you need to replace the transaxle.

mark the relationship of the inner cv joint to the flange.place a large screw driver between wheel studs hold driveaxle and remove the inner cv joint to axleshaft flange nuts remove the freewheel hub remove the driveaxle snap ring and spacer pull the inner cv joint off the axleshaft flange studs lower the inner cv joint and pull the driveaxle assembly out of the steering knuckle.let me know if this helps.

Yes it has to run out of the small plug by the passenger cv shaft when the engine is running.

It should be right above the left side driveaxle.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the light switch,
Unscrew the switch from the case and remove the gasket,
Install a new gasket, screw in the new switch and tighten it securely.
Reconnect the electrical connector, then check the operation of the lights.

good luck them cars are headaches. but i work on similar if not the same situation but you have to raise the front of the vehicle to be sure. i do believew the bearings may be worn in either driveaxles. more than likely its the inner cv joint. passenger side

Actually, it’s a bit involved, but you can do it.
Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and install two lug nuts with 3mm washers under them to hold the disc in place (if the two disc retaining screws are still in place, this will be unnecessary)
Remove the brake caliper. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper bolts, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Remove the two caliper mounting bracket to steering knuckle bolts.
Remove the driveaxle hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, put a prybar between two of the wheel studs and against the ground, then loosen the nut.
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the lower ball joint nut about three full turns. Don’t remove it. Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle (you’ll need to get or rent a two-jaw puller for that).
Swing the knuckle/hub assembly out away from the car and push the driveaxle through the hub assembly until the end of the driveaxle is free of the hub. The shaft on the end of the driveaxle is often hard to dislodge from the hub, so you may have to tap the outer end of the shaft with a soft mallet until it pulls easily out of the hub.
After the hub and axle are separated, support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to avoid unnecessary stain on the CV joint.
Remove the four bolts that hold thehub and brake disc assembly to the steering knuckle and remove the hub and disc.
Put a pry bar or something like one between two of the wheel studs to keep the whole thing from turning as you maybe put your feet against the bar, and then remove the four bolts that hold the disc to the hub assembly. Then you will have your disc. Installation is the reverse.
I hope this helps you. Give yourself plenty to time to deal with it.

The following might help you. It is the rotor removal process for your car, most of which you have apparently done:
Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and install two lug nuts with 3mm washers under them to hold the disc in place (if the two disc retaining screws are still in place, this will be unnecessary)
Remove the brake caliper. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper bolts, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Remove the two caliper mounting bracket to steering knuckle bolts.
Remove the driveaxle hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, put a prybar between two of the wheel studs and against the ground, then loosen the nut.
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the lower ball joint nut about three full turns. Don’t remove it. Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle (you’ll need to get or rent a two-jaw puller for that).
Swing the knuckle/hub assembly out away from the car and push the driveaxle through the hub assembly until the end of the driveaxle is free of the hub. The shaft on the end of the driveaxle is often hard to dislodge from the hub, so you may have to tap the outer end of the shaft with a soft mallet until it pulls easily out of the hub.
After the hub and axle are separated, support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to avoid unnecessary stain on the CV joint.
Remove the four bolts that hold thehub and brake disc assembly to the steering knuckle and remove the hub and disc.
Put a pry bar or something like one between two of the wheel studs to keep the whole thing from turning as you maybe put your feet against the bar, and then remove the four bolts that hold the disc to the hub assembly. Then you will have your disc. Installation is the reverse.
I hope this helps you. Give yourself plenty to time to deal with it.

jack up car,, put on stands,,, take off front wheels ,,,take off brake calibers ,,, two small screws holding on disk,,,(or rotors!)
keep new disks clean with out any dirt on the back joints and fit new pads

1. Put the vehicle in gear, apply the parking brake and break loose the driveaxle/hub nut with a socket and large breaker bar.
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support is securely on lackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut.
3. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way with wire. Remove the brake disc.
4. On models with four wheel ABS, trace the electrical lead for the wheel speed sensor along the upper control arm, then forward along the frame rail and unplug the electrical connector.
5. Remove the hub assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts. Remove the brake disc shield and wheel speed sensor assembly and set aside.
6. Tap the hub assembly from side-to-side to break it loose from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub assembly off the end of the driveaxle. Wrap the end of the driveaxle with a rag to prevent damaging it. If the hub is stuck on the splines on the end of the driveaxle, use a puller to free it.
7. Installation is reverse of removal process. Be sure to lubricate the driveaxle splines with multi-purpose grease, and tighten all of the fasteners to the proper torque.