20 Most Recent 2002 Toyota ECHO - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The IAC is on the bottom of the throttle body and has a hole in the bottom of the throttle body that lets air into the IAC. YOu do not have to remove it, if you do remove it the throttle body would have to come off and a new gasket would be required. Usually spraying through with throttle body cleaner will clean the IAC so it functions properly.About your P0505 faut code, The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve controls the idle speed of the engine. At idle the throttle plate is closed, of course. The IAC is computer controlled and allows only a certain amount of air around the throttle plate. This metered air controls the idle speed. The IAC has a "plunger" or "shutter" that moves to open or close the bypass air passageway. The more air the IAC allows around the throttle plate, the higher the idle. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) uses the IAC valve to keep the idle speed correct with varying engine demands. Can be a three or four wire sensor depending on the model.The PCM monitors voltages of the IAC circuits and if it detects an incorrect voltage on one or more of the IAC motor circuits it will set P0505. NOTE: Problems with the IAC would only be noticeable at idle or when throttle is closed.Symptoms may include:MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illuminationEngine stalls and may not idle unless throttle is depressedIntermittently stalls when letting off the throttleEngine may idle too highPotential causes of an P0505 code include:IAC motor connector is damaged (check connector and pins for damage, and moisture)One or more IAC circuits open or shorted to groundOne or more IAC circuits are shorted to voltageIAC has failedPCM has failedPossible Solutions:This should be a fairly straightforward diagnosis. Start by clearing the fault codes. Then unplug the IAC and start the engine (This may cause other IAC codes to set. Just ignore them for now). If the P0505 code doesn't reset, replace the IAC. It is internally shorting one of the IAC circuits. If the code DOES return after unplugging the IAC and starting the engine, then you know it isn't the IAC motor. Visually check the wiring harness all the way back to the PCM. You may need to visually inspect the harness by removing all the insulation off the wires. It is possible that the wires could be shorting to eachother or to other wires in the harness.If there are no wiring problems, and the code keeps returning with the IAC unplugged, you can check the PCM by removing the IAC wires from the PCM connector (or clipping the wires in a location where they can be repaired easily) and then start the engine (If you're not sure, don't do it. Take it to a qualified professional). Now if the code doesn't reset there is a problem with the wiring. Check for continuity on all the IAC wires. Any resistance points to a problem. Check for voltage on any(At this point there shouldn't be any voltages on the wires because they're clipped at one end and unplugged at the IAC). Repair as necessary. But if the P0505 code DOES reset after removing the IAC wires from the PCM connector(or clipping them), replace the PCM, there's a problem internally on the IAC control circuit.Hope this helps.

how do you know the gasoline is bad? I have seen vehicles stand for several years and then start okay.Siphoning out through the filler cap is usually fairly hard to do as most cars today have a device in the neck of a tank to stop theft. If you really wanted to remove all the gas I would suggest using a hose of no more than half an inch in diameter. This may just fit down through the filler neck, you would have to play with it to be able to get it all the way to the bottom.Regards

try changing plugs and wires. if it still misses try some Sea Foam in your gas tank 1/2 can to 1/2 tank of gas...drive for about 30 minutes. if this helped can you give me a good rating...thanks, i work very hard at trying to help people because i know how expensive repair bills can be and i know i have saved $hundreds of dollars for at least 100 or more people and my thanks is positive feedback or "testimonials".. We here at fix ya need as much information as possible. You know lately i"ve been home with a injury and have a lot of spare time on my hands and i kind of miss my job..i do a lot of troubleshooting at my job and this kind of keeps the brain going. One thing i notice that would help in finding a quicker fix is for you nice people out there, is to include as much info as possible. if this doesnt fix your problem, you could have vacuum leaks going to the intake manifold, or low compression,a leaky head gasket, timing chain worn, camshaft worn, dirty or worn fuel injectors, also if its got an obdII system pulling up the codes would make it a lot easier too. mileage would also help. thank you for your question.

there are several things it could be and here are the most common ones that i have seen.there is a speed sensor that is located on the top of the transmission that give trouble and also inside of the odometer there is also another speed sensor and the only way to replace it is to buy the whole odometer.the other possible cause i have seen is a broken wire or a chewed up broken wire from a rodent most likely a mouse and also where the odometer mounts inside the cluster there is a circuit board that could be bad...........to save a lot of money i would let the dealer figure it out cause if they put a part on and it does not fix it they have to take it back off.and if you put it on they will not take any electrical parts back and that was just money wasted and still not fixed.......i hope this info helped you and if you could let me and fixya know if i was any help to you with a thumbs up i would appreciate it.been working on toyota and lexus for 25 yrs and if i can help you in any other way let me know............thanks and good luck......

well that was a waste of time wasnt it perhaps you should find a garage where they employ proper mechanics and not unit changers .Take it a proper mechanic who will make sure it works before it leaves the garage ,Now was the vacumn pipes all checked all the way along for splitting or porosity ,secondly was the steeper motor checked for functionability ? ie with a meter to check the voltages being applied to it to make sure their isnt a fault with the computer ,and lots of other checks as well too numerous to mention ,now print this answer off and take back to the so called unit changer who would be called a oiler/greaser general garage hand in my day and see if he/she is capable of a diagnosis without plugging it in to a OBDII reader.And do not pay another penny unless the vehicle is cured and then deduct the previous bill from the said bill for poor workmanship and changing parts that didnt need changing ,never heard of resetting the plug gap ?? or dont the general garage hand know what this is.Not your fault but i do hate to read about people pretending to be skillled personal when they only know how to change the oil and filters .

there is a relief valve to dump the oil back into reservoir maybe thats what your hearing ,bad for the system to keep wheels fully locked would check powersteering level

Take the vehicle to Auto Zone or Advance Auto and ask them to read the fault code for you and they will do it for free and tell you what part you need. Most likely this is a Crank Position Sensor or cam Position sensor but the code reader will tell you which one so you don't waste time or money on the wrong one.

I had this on my 2002 Yaris, with 103,000 miles on the clock. I found that the rear engine mounting rubber bush was partly torn and the charcoal cannister was loose (not inserted in bracket properly). I installed a used rear engine mount off e-bay, straightened the cannister bracket and inserted it properly. Knocking noise at low revs now sorted.

throttle position sensor or called tps

PCM or timing belt