20 Most Recent 2005 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

Check that the heater pipe are hot, there are 2 pipes 1 in and 1 out. if both cold could be stat .If 1 is hot and the other is cold it could be air or blocked heater matrix, with car running take cold pipe off . if water flows out check its warm, if it flows out cold leave till water warms up then put pipe back on, make sure you keep radiator topped up while your doing it, if no water comes out when you take the pipe off the matrix is blocked, take both hoses of and flush through with a hose pipe.

You have either an external (wiring/grounding) or internal (component) problem. A couple of things come to mind that could cause the freezing - received RF signals get interupted (loose antenna connection somewhere), or internal component failure (such as a component in the radio overheating). If internal, you will probably have to replace the radio, as it would be cheaper than trying to repair it.

Well first of all it sound like your fuel pump is dead, To get to your fuel pump you need to take out the back seat out because it is located under it in the middle. Or you can drop the gas tank to get to the fuel pump. And the relay switch should be in your fuse box Now if memory serves me correctly you should have 2 fues boxes in that model. Check the engine area for that relay for the fuel pump.

In the worst written English I have in a long time "they don't got no filter" :>D https://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/automatic-transmission-filter-for-a-2005-civic-lx.228766/ You can buy externally mounted aftermarket add-ons. https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/honda/civic/transmission/automatic_transmission_filter.html .. ..

Low fuel pressure

Spray oil in the latch and open close real fast

Follow the link Fix Honda Radio Enter Code lockout after dead battery EpicReviewsTech CC

ok your radio displays ERR , OK 3 options let it sit for an hour turned on , to reture to CODE display , or pull the radio fuse out for a minute and put it back in , returning to the CODE display , or disconnect the battery for a minute , returning to the CODE display . you got the ERR display because the code was wrong or not entered correctly , make your choice of getting the radio back to the CODE display by 1 of those 3 choices , while the radio displays CODE , use the preset buttons , if the first number of your code is 4 , then press the #1 preset button 4 time , when the first number has been input , put the 2nd number in by pressing the #2 prest button , if 2nd number of code is 8 , press the # 2 preset button 8 times till the # 8 is displayed , and so on . you see where this is giong ? when you have entered all the numbers correctly you will have you radio back . when you say you have the radio code , good luck ! were rooting for ya .

J5

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Hello Carey Martin, Totally FREE circuit drawings and TECHNICAL Service Bulletins (TSBs) are available for most USA Market vehicles (import & domestic. Registration is required as these are usually authentic/specific FACTORY drawings. Your trouble sounds a little more like some skilled advise would help... (rather than being whooshed off in the DOCUMENTS direction... (Most likely: burnt bulb/bad connection) IF your metal to metal surface (or electrical) contacts are heavily corroded together... the first REMEDY you could try... Apply some LIQUID WRENCH (sparingly) and let it soak in... Re-apply for better coverage (to soak MORE in). It is most commonly available in SPRAY cans... I do NOT recommend applying it to electrical surfaces in the spray form: Get the small drip bottle or SPRAY into a suitable container... then use a tooth-pick to apply to your HEAD-LIGHT Surfaces... KEEP all these sprays, grease & finger marks very FAR AWAY from GLASS & REFLECTIVE surfaces. When you do FINALLY expose you electrical contacts... REMOVE all dirt & corrosion. Burnish the contact surfaces with a soft pencil and put a protective layer of WHITE LITHIUM grease (or at least Vaseline... SPARINGLY) on those surfaces BEFORE reconnecting BATERY. Amazon com Liquid Wrench L112 Penetrating Oil Spray 11 oz Automotive Amazon com Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease 8 oz Squeeze Tube... Hope this gets you started (comment me back (I used to read Circuit Drawings for a living)). Carnac the Magnificent

If this is an OEM Honda radio you can get the code for free at the Honda Owners Link. All you have to do is go there and sign up. Once you are signed up just log in and click the quick link, (Retrieve Radio Code). The page that comes up will require that you have the Vehicle VIN # and your address and phone #. It will also require you to have the radio Serial #. You will be able to get the serial # off the radio display by following the directions on the site.
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?page=%2Fprod%5Fhome%2Easp

There is a wiring harness that connects all those lights on the trunk lid to the system. There usually is a connection to take the trunk lid off. IT is near the hinge support legs that lead from the lid to the hinges under the rear deck of the passenger compartment. Check that connection to be sure that it is not loose or damaged. IF it is not loose or damaged then the ground connection through the chassis parts that mount the trunk lid are suspect or there is a broken wire in the harness.

Here are the options for disarming a factory alarm while it's going off: 1. Close all doors, trunk and hood. Alarm will stop after preset time. 2. Hit the unlock or lock button on the remote. (One of the 2 works... I just don't remember which.) 3. With all doors, trunk and hood close, insert the key in the driver's door and unlock/lock the doors manually. Also, is it a factory security system? Is it a honda key fob? or a remote start system perhaps?

indicates a problem hydraulic cam followers leaking down when let sit for a time they can be removed and checked with a leak down test but for the years and the mileage , it may be best to just replace them with new units

Question - is the car running fine? - any issues? If all is fine and the engine is running like it always has leave it alone since you may have sensors sending out incorrect info. Wait till something valid goes wrong . Mechanic you spoke to is full of it. Unburnt gas in combustion chamber comes out as black carbon, a by product of incomplete combustion. Is your exhaust black? Bet you it's not!

What is a "55 Plate"?

Sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. Get a voltmeter and start probing around and wiggling connections, like the battery to engine and frame.