1991 Plymouth Sundance - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

there is another fuel pump relay. also check oil sending unit, sometimes they are wired to shut fuel pump down upon low oil pressure.

mass air flow censor

Sounds like one of your pulleys is bad. Alternator, water pump, don't know till you find it. You say you have more than one belt-try taking one off at a time, run engine for a couple of minutes and see if squealing goes away. Maybe you can isolate it that way. If belts are off, you could spin each pulley by hand to see if you could catch the one that is bad. Any little wobble or play in any of the pulleys would be very suspect as the likely bad one.

detent cable way out of adjustment

Many auto parts stores will do scans for free to display what the check engine light is on for.

Bearings often will calm down with noise after they get hot. Just because the idler bearings, belt may be new it could still be a bearing in an alternator, AC, power steering, ect.

run fault codes and check for cam/crank position sensor problem/ Check that the camshaft is turning ( broken timing belt/chain) check operation of the immobiliser

The oil pressure light can/will keep power from reaching the fuel pump. So you would need to check oil pressure first. Then once the oil pressure light problem is resolved checking the fuel pressure might be next.

auto parts store can order rebuild engine or go online look for rebuild engine for 91 plymouth.should find one on internet.

overheating sound like faulty thermostat.thermostat either sticking close or could have blown headgasket if you see a lot of white smoke coming out of exhaust.if headgasket is leaking check engine oil should look milky.also check water pump look around weep hole or see coolant leaking around water pump replace water pump.also check water pump drive belt.make sure drive belt not loose slipping.

THe clutch is located in the flywheel housing directly behind the engine. Put you foot on the brake while having you foot on the accelerator and at about 1500rpm let out the clutch pedal. If the engine dies immediately the clutch will be good . If the engine continues to rev with the pedal full out you have a clutch problem This test should last maybe 5 seconds.

You change the head gasketThe spitting is cylinder pressure or combustiongases blowing out coolant

Have a radiator pressure test done for blown head gasket

did you try the pick up coil or hall effect,its under the dist cap with a wire coming out to a plug.

Your timing belt could be broken or perhaps the Drive chain that drives the two balance shafts behind the timing belt

what type of car do you have?

Disconnect the battery for a couple minutesIf you have problems, don't clear,a shop willneed the data stored to diagnose

About what gaskets? Send us year car and model.

Yes, I think I can help you. Isolating which system is causing the problem is the SECOND step in ANY automotive diagnosis. (you might want to remember this for future reference - it can make your life a whole lot easier) The FIRST step is to "verify the customer complaint". Since you ARE the customer, then you have already verified that the engine keeps dying, so that makes "isolating the sytem" the FIRST step in your case. This is where your problem lies. You are replacing parts trying to fix the WRONG system..that is why it is still dying. The problem is the IGNITION system NOT the FUEL system.With all that said, your ignition system is shutting down. The MOST LIKELY cause is a bad distributor pick-up coil. It is located in the distributor under the distributor cap and looks like the picture below.

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