20 Most Recent 2000 Plymouth Voyager - Page 9 Questions & Answers

You never put brake fluid in the engine, brake fluid only goes in the brake master cylinder, which is on the drivers side under the hood, close to the fire wall, will have a small resivor.

I supported the hatch and removed the hinges from the hatch.

yes

The oil pump removal procedure for Plymouth Voyager 2000.
A oil pump is usually located in the oil pan. If you want to change the oil pump and replace it with a new one, roll up your sleeves and get ready for some dirty work.
The procedure to remove oil pump is as follows:--

• Drive your vehicle up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels so they don't roll. In addition, set the emergency break firmly into position so the car doesn't roll.
• Remove the engine front cover then drain the engine oil and take out the oil pan. It is under the engine and looks like the bottom of the motor.
• Unscrew the oil pump mounting bolts with a wrench and proceed to remove the oil pump itself by pulling it down and out of the engine. Avoid getting any contaminants into the oil pump assembly while removing.

The Water pump removal procedure for Plymouth Voyager 2000.
The water pump is the heart of the Plymouth Voyager's cooling system, circulating the coolant. When the water pump is faulty, it can cause serious damage to the engine of your Plymouth Voyager.

• Disconnect the negative battery cable.Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
• Remove the right inner splash shield and the accessory drive belts. Support the engine underneath and remove the right motor mount with the bracket.
• Take off the front cover and remove the timing belt along with the timing belt idler pulley. Also remove the camshaft sprockets, the rear cover to the timing belt and the alternator with its bracket.
• Loosen and remove the bolts to the water pump and remove it from the engine.Install the new water pump after inserting a new o-ring gasket. Tighten the bolts to 105-inch lbs. Make sure that the pump can move freely by rotating it by hand.
• Replace all components in reverse order. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 foot pounds and the timing belt idler pulley to 45 foot pounds.
• Refill the cooling system with coolant and reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks when it reaches normal operating temperatures.

Loud noises coming from the cooling system could be a sign that your water pump needs replacing. A leak in the coolant may also be an indicator. You can expect that a water pump will need to be changed every 70 to 100 thousand miles or so in a Plymouth Voyager vehicle.
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no it's on the fire wall usally on the pass side.

You can try to reset the cluster by perform an instrument calibration. If I remember correctly, push the trip odometer and reset buttons in until the gauges react. The cal takes about 10 seconds. If it's still bad after that but, the speedo moves during the cal, it's a good bet the speedo is good and the problem lies elsewhere.

If that doesn't help try removing the IOD fuse for a couple minutes. It's in the fuse/relay panel next to the battery. This resets the body control module (BCM) which controls most of the electronics in the van.

Still dead? It's either the cluster, BCM, or vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the tranny, or wiring. Since you're not complaining of shifting problems I would think it's likely not the VSS. If you go for the cluster, check the connectors contacts and solder joints closely. They are notorious for being subpar. An indication of this would be the speedo coming to life after you smack the top of the dash (common technique).

OBTW The dealer can determine the problem in minutes using a scanner.

do you notice any lights on the dash BEFORE the engine dies?

The most likely concern is an intermittent open in the CKP (Crank Shaft Position) sensor circuit

This will not set a code because the computer does not understand that you are not turning off the engine... it just sees that the engine is off!

Another possibility is an intermittent loss of power or ground to the car computer(s)
again, generally, this will not set any codes either

Therefore, you will have to have a technician with a scan tool installed and recording vehicle data during the concern to diagnose your concern... tough and time consuming unless you can get a close idea as to when the concern will duplicate

The only reason to repair/replace rack and pinion is if the wheel took a hit in an accident, or it has a power steering problem.

The rack is long and thin, attached to the tie rods on each end, which can be popped with a picklefork, or removed by twisting the toe-in adjustment sleeves (count the turns for replacement having a reasonable starting point).

Then there is just the steering shft coupling, the power steering hoses, and the 4 hold down bolts.

Since it is long and thin, it generally slips out one side or the other, as long as a wheel if off.

It probably doesn't have it's own fuse. It is on with the lights or something else, just look for the bad fuse. Might not be a fuse. The motor might be shot. If you don't use the one in the back, steal the motor out of it and use it up front, it might fit. Hope this helps.

Please confirm engine size.

its either faulty oil light sensor or a wiring problem

Check the all the door/body frames for a plaque giving this sort of info. Also, sometimes a sticker or plaque is fixed to the spare tire cover, or in the spare tire compartment.

I don't believe there is a way you can start it without turning the tumbler on the key switch. You also have a locking steering wheel which would also have to be disabled in order to drive it.

you need to remove the glove box right behind it

Even if the bolts sre loose the gasket will be damaged. There is alot of fluid pressure there so if bolts are loose the fluid will tear the gasket while leaking. You may need to lower the front side of the transmission or remove the radiator to get to it easily

We had the same problem. It was the master cylinder. There was a recall on some of the master cylinders made for that vehicle. It costs about $80 and is fairly straightforward to replace.

First, pull the dipstick on the engine and make sure you've got sufficient oil in the pan.
If not, DON"T drive it until you have sufficient oil as indicated on the dipstick
Alot of these chryslers don't have oil pressure guages, only lites to tell you when you are dangerously low on oil. if this is the case, be sure not to drive it until you have this issue resolved.
It also could be that the oil pressure sensor wire got knocked off the motor.
Be sure to have a mechanic put an oil pressure guage on your engine to physically check if you're getting oil pressure.
Don't take any chances on this... it means the difference between a running engine and one that is siezed..

If you have the harmonic balancer still attached you can align the timing marks with 0 degree to get the main block aligned. With the head removed you can turn the cam shaft till the number 1 valves are both closed and the number 3 exhaust valve is open. Take the time to inspect the valves as well. This vehicle did not come with no contact valves so when the belt broke it is possible the valves made contact with a piston and bent. I highly recommend you get the Haynes Repair manual on this vehicle from the local auto parts store as it has detailed instructions on how to get back to TDC if this happens. It also has Pictures on this. Because this belt goes around 3 timing marks aligning those after you have the pistons at TDC if you align the timing marks on the different sprockets/pullies the timing for teh valves will be correct.

You need to check your main fuses under the hood first and then check them under the driver side dash board.