Top 20 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Change the filter first. The tranny may have some worn parts in the valve body or the reverse clutch may be worn too.

That's because there is no pressure when you let off and the clutches dissengage.Dodge Ram rear ends are a "chronic" problem if you read up on them a little.IMHO,if you feel the truck is worth keeping then either find someone that can pull the nest and take a look inside.Odds are (to spare the technical explaination) it wore right through and is not even rebuildable... If it were me,I'd find a "rebuilt" as opposed to buying a used one from salvage yard and ending up "exactly" where you are right now... Best of luck P.S. If possible try avoid obtaining a posi-traction and you may have considerably better luck with longivity...(you can learn the type by VIN# and calling dealer)

then you need to find the fuse that's blown

get a jump, take it to Auto Zone or other parts store, have them run a free diagnostic on the battery, and the alternator. My bet is that it's one of the two that needs replacement.

first you check if the pump is noisy when you work it.if so ,check if any of the hoses is leaking alone the way to the winshield. if there is no leak ,the pump is weak and will not deliver.you must replace, if there is a leak , replace the hose or fix it.

Try replacing the bulbs before panicing. When you replace, put dielectric grease in the sockets to resist corrosion and improve the conductivity.

if it still runs loosen distributor bolt but dont take out start engine turn just little to get into time and if wont start pull distributor up rotate tooth the rotor should face number one piston

ignition control module/shorts when it gets hot mabee?

start with the fuses-next did you knock some wiring loose while replacing antenna wiring-cheers Denny

have a compression test done and look form head gasket or cracked head. Have a coolant pressure test done and look for leaks at the back of the motor from rusted welsh plugs/head gasket

Which diagram do you need, what are you working on?

im not a dodge hating kind of person, but somewhere in the 1990's until probably 2010... dodge trucks (1/2 ton, or anything not mated to a diesel, the diesel trans was fine) but anyways the trans were junk, you might get 100,000 miles out of them before they died, around 2007-8-9 area they started offering lifetime warranties just because of it. HOWEVER, research says that the 1740 code is Torque Converter or O/D solenoid, people reporting having the problem with only 50,000 miles on there truck. could be torque converter if your having to feather the gas. its funny that it works fine in tow mode, because generically tow mode usually just disables the ability for overdrive, but you noted the problem at 2nd-3rd gear. Id get a transmission mechanic to give it a quick drive, like I said before, i dont hate dodges, but because of there problemed transmissions... a transmission mechanic would probably know pretty quickly what the problem is.

You could do that in fact I've done it a few times myself to either rule it out or pinpoint it as the problem. Your top radiator hose will lead from the radiator to the thermostat housing take the housing off and there's the thermostat. Personally I would take the thermostat in the house put it in a pan of water and see if its opening and closing right without any hitches. Also if the fan(s) aren't working properly they can cause it to hiss and spray through the radiator fill. I would make sure to test the thermostat although you don't know at what temp it opening you'll know it is opening. depending how far you live from a parts store I would drive it there and back without the thermostat the install the new and drive it the same distance to make sure it not going to overheat. each time you take the thermostat housing off you have to clean as much of the gasket and sealer as possible on both the side that connects to the radiator and the side on the block. Everything it cast aluminum so be careful not to torque it so hard you snap the bolts off. Good Luck I Hope This Helps

check the condition of the oil in the transmission and if it is not bright cherry red then replace it

Sounds like you have a leak, otherwise you shouldn't have had to add fluid. Thermostats are often blamed for overheating but rarely are the cause. My first step would be to pressurize the cooling system and look for a leak.

refer to chiltons guide

I see this is kind of old, but it could be the linkage out of adjustment, the park pin broke off or a bad neutral safety switch (park switch).

CPM? Isn't that the cam position sensor? That sensor is to let computer know when to pulse the injectors.

check all battery and starter connections and all fuel lines then see what happen or it maybe a dead battery or out of gas

Have you replaced the transmission or steering column/steering gear?