2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

first of all that fluid stinks !!! period!!, so dont worry about that, you will want to remove the rear cover and drain it and check for metal filings, remove the drive shaft and remove the nut that holds the yoke in place, impact driver works well, you may need a puller to remove the yoke, pry out the old seal and install the new, fill the rear end to the bottom of the filler hole and youre done, unless the rear end was making noise you should be ok

Some times there are different ring gears that the factory installs, you might check this out. If that is not your case then you might try starter shims. It is just to close

You do not list the engine size. This truck comes with 3 engines. 5.4 V8, 7.3 Diesel, and a V10. Your owner's manual will list the capacity. The add mark normally means add 1 quart on a V8. Add 1/2 quart wait 5 minutes and check the level again. The 5.4 L V8 capacity is 6 quarts of 5w20 with filter change. If it is a diesel then it requires a special oil for diesels which is 15w40 weight and it holds 14.5 quarts.

I'm assuming you have spark and fuel.

Do a compression check on all cylinders, all should read the same.

R134A. make sure you check the tag under the hood for the correct charge amount. more is not better, more will blow things up!

You can not reset the the keyless entry as far as i know. You can program in a new code but you must have the old code to do that. If you lost your code card go under the drivers side up inside under the radio. in the center above the hump. You may need to pull the carpet back or even some insulation. There you will find the module with a white tag on it that gives you the 5 digit code to your keyless pad. otherwise you will need to take it to the dealer for reprogramming.

Got a check light on or codes stored?
If the plugs are okey ,you may have a bad COP Coil on one cylinder.
Clean MAF Sensor ,with CRC MAF Cleaner

if it looks like light chocolate milk then you have water in the gearcase and you should renew the bearings and seals prior to lube change out otherwise 90-140 weight will work in these

Gear oil comes in 90 or 130 weight. depends on where you live and how you use your truck what you use. Your Ford Dealer is best fitted to answer this question ... probably for free if you give a call.

Depending on where your truck was made you will either find the fuse under the gauge cluster or under the hood in the power distribution box. The fuse for the trailer lights is separate from the fuse for the truck brake-lights.

If they are dragging there are 2 possible problems. 1st would be crud built up on the rails that the caliper moves in and out on. Clean road grime, rust, etc. and use brake grease to lube and prevent corrosion to all caliper surfaces that move when the brakes are applied and released. The 2nd possible problem would be corrosion inside the calipers. 2 fixes for that, 1. replace the calipers with new or rebuilt ones, or 2. you can get a kit to rebuild them yourself. If they don't fully release, it is most likely due to corrosion inside, not allowing the piston to completely release. Whatever you do 1, or 2, bleed the system to flush out the old fluid, otherwise you may have the same problem again, as the fluid may be contaminated (fluid absorbs moisture, never add fluid from a container that was left open or not tightly sealed), and corrosion will occur again.

check wiring at a/c condensor and the a/c clutch fuse/relay

That sounds like the culprit. the seal inside the caliper cylinder goes bad and leaks past the piston.

you have to have 3 ft long extension with a swivel socket and get underneath truck and go along side and pver transmission

remove the top fill plug and on level ground, stick your finger in the hole. the level should be 1/2" from the top of the hole

All ford juntion boxes are under the hood next to the brake booster

If you are doing this in park or neutral the computer is shutting the fuel off . This is normal

Yes you'll need to replace them, no wonder they don't blow a fuse been the amps there pulling.

Remove the wheel. Remove the two bolts at the caliper. Take a C clamp prefferbly a 6 inch type and compress the brake pads as far as they will go into the caliper.
remove the caliper
Now remove the two bolts to the calipers saddle that holds it in place
I think a 17 mm wrench will do
Now you can remove the rotor by removing the bearing cap and the rest is easy to figure out by punching out the bearing races as well as the seal
Clean thoroughly before installing the new parts

possible has a loose wiring connection in the steering column near the key cylinder.