2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Which fuse box? there are three: The Battery Junction Block (BJB), the Central Junction Block (CJB) and the Bi-Fuel Relay Module.

Please review this article: Where's The Fuse?

Also, the information that you are probably trying to find is covered in the Owner's Manual for your vehicle. (Look under the heading of "Roadside Emergencies")
If you don't have an owner"s manual, you can download a FREE .pdf version at the Ford web site. I have provided a direct link below. You can save this file to your computer for future reference.

2001 FORD F-250 OWNER"S MANUAL

start by checking the starter relay.it should make a click when you turn the key.if not the relay may be bad. if it does click you may have to change the starter.the tarnsmission range sensor will also cause this problem.

That would probably wipe out your Drier and the soap may corrode the moving parts in the compressor.

There is a testing kit at Autozone and Advance autoparts which uses a dedicated can of dye marker. But this kit is an UV kit which has a UV source penlight, yellow plastic goggles, and a small can good for 4 to 5 tests.

When you add the UV marker, as with any others, make sure your compressor clutch is working and run the engine to circulate the stuff.

When you put on the yellow glasses, and use the UV pen, Stevie Wonder could see the leak. Now after all of this, if no underhood leak can be found, use the UV tester at the A/C drain from the Firewall. It is possible the leak is inside the cabin and the water from the ductwork drain will let the UV marker escape.

I would like to know if you bought this product and if you found the leak. Remember too, that the sniffer detector still works and may be the final way to fix you up.

ill only speak from my expierence with glow plug.they are designed to warm fuel temperture so you have combustion on cooler days like fall and winter.the ford i worked on had similar codes,it all boiled down to a shorted out glow plug.i replaced glow plug and cked wiring for bad cuts or rubbing against anything.fired truck up and it runs perfect .hope this helps you.

The air direction is vacum controlled. If you have 4X4 and ESOF ( switch in the cab) then you need to inspect the vacum lines that go to the hubs and possibly the hub seals. "default" position for air flow is the defrost position. If you DON'T have 4X4, and it's a diesel engine, inspect the vacum pump, If it's a gas engine then look at all the vacum lines from the intake manifold for a leak.

Hi,
The Alternator is JUNK, sorry.
Regards,DT

For the engine missfire you will need the coil some will show crack on top some internal, and some leak thru the boot, as for the transmission the tempsensor think its towing or a spped sensor which measure turbine, and compares to out put, wont shift your transmission is worn you can probably see it on the fluid conition being burnt(blackish)

the bake systems have'nt change much ,basically the two bolts holding the caliper

The Fuel pump relay for this vehicle is not removable, not smart on Ford's part. What I used to do is disconnect the fuel inertia switch which is located right next to the fuse panel on the passenger side lower kick panel, closest to the firewall. It's tough to get to but can be done. I've seen guys take the inertia switch to pop it then reset it when ready but I'd recommend just disconnecting the connector, and run the engine til it stalls, replace the filter then reinstall connector. The filter can be disconnected without disconnecting the switch by using the fuel clip tool and slowly pulling the line off, allowing pressure to drop but this should be done by an experienced person wearing safety glasses only.

Disconnecting the inertia switch and running the engine til stall could throw a diagnostic code/engine lamp but this can simply be erased by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes. Good luck, please ask if more help is needed.

wiring harness under dash.
wires coming off top of fuel tank.
check all fuses.
do you do a lot of off roading - you may have cut or pulled a wire out.
finally you may have:
1. a bad fuel tank sending unit - need to drop the tank to replace.
2. a bad fuel gage.
3. a bad instrument panel

Normaly an oil pump won't fluxuate output, I would suspect a faulty oil pressure sensor first. You could also have the pressure tested.
A problem with the Ford modular motors had was sludging due to longer intervals then normal oil changes , Ford went to recommending 5w20 Synthetic Blend oil in later model years to address this problem.

CHANGE YOUR THROTTLE POSTION SENSOR

In the front middle more towrd the left side tucked in behind the bumper!

Yes, the extra Voltage can overload the Relay. You have several problems here. The Batteries are suppose to be connected in such a way to give you 12 Volts. If you are measuring Voltage to the Relay without the engine running, the main battery cables must be wrong. But one of your batteries must be shorted because two X 12 Volts is 24 Volts, not 16. Unless your dash Voltmeter is pegging out at 16 Volts; you are really getting 24. Use a Multimeter set to Volts and retest to see what the actual Voltage is.

If you are measuring Voltage after the engine is running, the Regulator is bad and allowing too much Voltage in the system which can burn out about anything designed for 12 Volts. It would not be much of a factor for the Glowplug Relay though, because it should shut off before you crank your truck. So in theory you would not be generating 16 Volts while the Relay was working.

You can get a free load test on the Batteries and the Starter at Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance autoparts. Ask for a charging system test. Some Walmart stores will test, but I do not know if it is free.

I hope my solution is very helpful in providing you some items to check to cure your problem.

1. Raise and support the vehicle; Remove the wheel and tire assembly;
2. After removing the tire, remove the brake pads;
3. Remove the disc brake caliper by removing the two disc brake caliper pin bolts. Lift the disc brake caliper from the disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292). If necessary, remove the V-springs.
4. Remove the pads. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate stainless steel rail clips.
5. Remove the rotor.
6. Note: Perform this step for DRW vehicles. Remove the eight hub extender nuts, the hub plate and the rotor. Remove the eight hub plate nuts. Remove the hub plate. Remove the rotor.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

The glow plug RELAY is mounted on the left side of the engine compartment.

What engine?

in the fuel tank

Some vehicles have that sensor on them. When oil is low, they will cut off and not start. You are right. If you have another question, please contact me. I will help you as much as I can. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

there is a motor located on the transfer case check to make sure this is working