20 Most Recent 1992 Mazda MX-3 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

nope diffrent trans man not to mention obd1 for 92 obd2 for 96 lots of work man not somthing i would call easy

did you pull the plug out of the back of the calper and adjust the caliper after the new pads were installed?

Sounds like a faulty throttle position sensor..maybe

I found out that the 626 model has a relay for the blower motor on the drivers side firewall (in engine compartment). Not sure if it's the same location as yours, but a bad relay could be the problem.

does it vibrate durreing brak aplicatin, if so probably a out of round rotor,ifatlower speeds just driveing
most ikely a seperated tire

WHen a car overheats its alwasys one of these problems,

• thermostat failing in the closed position.
• the fan not working properly.
• radiator semi clogged.
• the water pump would cause this too but usually you will see leaking from the pump itself.
• low coolant, but it looks like you have checked that.
  

What about battery and alternator (serpentine belt).

I have the same vehicle and had the same problem. It could be one of three things. Yes your timing could be off. 2nd- Your crank positioning sensor could be bad or disconnected.3rd your distributor went out and needs to be replaced. Most likely it is your timing off or your distributor went out in which case the distributor is an easy fix to do yourself but expensive for the part. Did it run before tightning the belt.

Let me explain real quick the fuel pump circuit, when you crank to start that is a straight circuit to the pump via a fuse in most cases, when the engine starts and you release the key the fuel pump relay is energized and keeps the fuel pump running, it sounds like the fuel pump run relay may be the problem with your car, replace it or bypass it to test, if you don't understand how a bosch relay is wired don't jump it yourself, you can burn up the wiring.

Vibration during acceleration is probably from axle going bad. Intermittent vibration at high speed could be a loose piece of plastic under the car or in the wheel well.

had the same problem and my oil level was low..... filled it up and havent had a problem since....

the timing belt adjuster is automatic
if there is slack, the belt is beyond its service limits and should be replaced before failure
timing belt failure includes severe engine damage
belt breaks
crankshaft continues to rotate
camshafts stop
one or more valves jam open,
jammed valves smash the piston crown on the next upstroke
large fragments of steel destroy the bottom end

Engine $thousands or Belt and adjuster kit $200

i don't know, but i'm pretty sure there is a throttle position sensor of sorts on there. that sounds like the reason. as far as that and your check engine light, go to autozone or advance auto and get them to check it for free. or go to your local garage and have them read it (may cost you, may not). if you go to one for free be prepared, take a pen and paper to write down whatever the codes are. this way you can have the info for your mechanic or you can fix yourself.

see if you have disc or drum system brakes at rear if it is dics
try to replace brake caliper it might be stuck and make sure your emercy brake is off

I think someone is pulling your leg, there is more chance of the pope going on holiday to the moon than there is any engine being fitted with a plastic oil pump and oil doesn't turn to varnish petrol/gasoline left for a very long times can (but not always) turn to a varnish like substance inside the fuel lines.
I restored old cars for a living for about twenty five years and I only ever saw fuel go like that once.
Whom ever told you that I think is a little confused, the fuel can sometimes go like varnish and fuel pumps do have plastic parts, but the chance of the plastic degrading and falling apart is nil to zero and the only thing the fuel might do is clog the pump.
Being a Mazda the actual manufacturer hasn't been in business long enough for one of their very first cars to be reaching a point where the fuel would have degraded.

for what motor? need more info to solve the problem

i would check the fuel pump relay...or the ground might be bad on the tank under back seat i know i have a 92 myself

actually the knock sensor has nothing to do with the idler
but yes you are right the code # 5 means knock sensor problem
most of times knock sensor is located on either side of engine block but if you don't know how it looks like just buy a new sensor and compair it with the one on your car, if you are planing to instal new sensor is ok but if codes keeps coming on then it migh be the circuit from sensor to computer or the computer it self, but again i don't belive it has nothing to do with idle problem. hope and this help

clutch is not disengaging when pedal is pressed no hydraulic fluid slave cylinder leaking clutch master cylinder failure air in system clutch cable broken take it to a clutch and brake specialist shop not a clutch problem