20 Most Recent 1993 Mazda Protege - Page 6 Questions & Answers

could it be the power steerring pump??

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Ask your local auto parts store, they can look it up. It may depend on your specific engine, the 2003 Honda Accord used a chain on the 4 cylinder but a belt on the V6.
The belt should (usually) be replaced every 60000 miles (100000 km), while the chain should last the life of the engine (150000+ miles).
On many engines, if the belt breaks, it can cause expensive damage to the valves and/or pistons, so you want to make sure you replace it as scheduled.

if its pressurising if you start car from cold with rad cap off?? and blows out coolant then junk car as it will cost more to repair than car is worth ,its only worth 500euros at this age maximum and thats if it runs ok with a years vehicle inspection certificate

Ok, so you got the battery connections ok.

Now, the shifting into any gears problem is more due to a clutch problem than a battery problem.

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HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

1. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw on the release cylinder.
2. Place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.
3. Submerge the other end of the tube in a jar half filled with hydraulic brake fluid.
4. Slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and allow it to return slowly, several times.
5. While pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, loosen the bleeder screw until the fluid starts to run out. Then close the bleeder screw. Keep repeating this Step, while watching the hydraulic fluid in the jar. As soon as the air bubbles disappear, close the bleeder screw.
6. During the bleeding procedure the reservoir must be kept at least 3⁄4 full.

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The clutch master or slave cylinder could be leaking.

If the slave cylinder is leaking, it will have to be replaced:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped with a flexible hydraulic line connecting the slave cylinder, loosen the fitting at the hose-to-tube junction and remove the clip from the bracket. Remove the hose from the slave cylinder using a tubing wrench and plug the hydraulic line. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch release (slave) cylinder assembly
   
   
3. On all other vehicles, loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the slave cylinder. Disconnect and plug the line.
4. Remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts and remove the slave cylinder. To install:
   
5. Install the slave cylinder and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Connect the hydraulic line and tighten with a tubing wrench.
7. If equipped with a flexible hose, connect the hose and tighten with a tubing wrench. Attach the hose to the bracket and install the clip. Connect the hydraulic line and tighten the fitting with a tubing wrench.
8. Bleed the air from the system.

One might consider changing the fuel pump and fuel filter to try to get rid of the lack of gas problem.

If the fuel pump is changed, the filter is a logical thing to change at the same time.

Good luck on this repair.

the firing order is 1--3--4--2....cheers

i would start by checking all the fuses first then make sure the battery connections are on correctly and are also clean and tight, you may have a bad starter but you should be getting power to headlights and dash lights, if theres no power anywhere but the rear door then theres a bad fuse somewhere, but if the headlights work and brake lights and dash lights and the heater blower motor all work then you may have a bad starter, make sure to have the key on when checking these things.

There is a lot of reasons for stalling but start with trying to find any vaccum leaks. Then cleen the throttle plates and if you know what the idle speed control is cleen that too. Also if it has a mass air flow sensor cleen that but be careful don't brake any of the fine wires. Thats a good starting point that the only thing it cost is a can of carb cleen or throttle plates cleener.

Idles are preset ,and not adjustable on fuel injection,but look where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle,and where the throttle sets,there might be a screw with a lock nut,and will allow some setting,but not much,cause the throttle position sensor does this threw the computer.The throttle position sensor is on the throttle,on the opposite side of where the throttle cables attach.If this was helpful,then please rate,thank you.

Write down the codes , then clear them up , and go for a road test.When above event happens , stop and check the code right away , see what you find and repair according to the code.
I would lean toward TPS too, but I may be wrong.
Fuel pressure can do it too.

I AM LOOKING AT STOP UP FUEL FILTER OR FAULT IN THE PRESSURE REGULATOR SOLENOID VALVE.

Yes,but only one at a time,you need to remove the negative battery cable,and purchase a test light,they are cheap,and clip one end of the test light to the post on the batter(negative)where you took off the negative cable,and the tip of the test light to touch the cable(negative),and the test light will light up,then remove the fuse for the dome light,and then start pulling fuses,one at a time and putting them back in,if they do not cut the test light off,if it does turn the test light off,that fuse is the circuit that has the draw.Also unplug the alternator to make sure it is not the problem.

Did they install a fuel filter also? Sounds like it might be plugged or your new fuel pump might be defective.

If the car is nice, buy it from the dealer. Muffler shops put the cheapest **** parts on, and it wont last.