20 Most Recent 1993 Mazda Protege - Page 8 Questions & Answers

you mean the #3 fuel injector? start by checking the wire harness that plugs into it. sounds like an internal break in one of the wires. most fuel injectors have power going to them and the pcm grounds each of them individually to make them "fire" the gas charge. it is also possible that the injector is plugged up with debris and you will need to replace the injector. you should have a misfire code for #3 cylinder if you ran a scan with an OBDII error code reader.

its a relay clicking, you must have a bad ground and its looking for another path to follow

Relay with a loose wire going to it unless its only when you use the indicator's then its the flasher unit which makes a oise anyway. Check the wires if its a relay that is clicking

open your oil fill cap if you see white milky stuff you found your leak

no the ford is a 2.5l but the protege for 1993 is a 1.8 liter

Here's the firing order, hope this helped :)
1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Diagram: http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2149/firingorder.gif

4 pin connector next to distributor

Throttle position sensor is bad or dirty fuel injectors

The car overheated and something caused the overheating. Bad thermostat, low coolant level due to a leak or busted radiator hose, inoperative cooling fan, or a bad water pump. Lots of things can cause an overheating condition and I am not really sure that any blame can or should be assessed to anyone regarding what caused the overheating....something caused it and I would be hesitant to blame the driver. I doubt that the person did anything devious like drain the coolant out. However, poor judgement was used in continuing to drive the vehicle after it overheated. This can cause major problems like a blown head gasket or even a completely blown engine. Maybe the lady panicked or was unaware of the damage that it could cause to keep driving. I suspect that it wasn't something malicious (she probably feels bad enough, already), but just a simple error in judgement. I would probably give her the benefit of the doubt and explain (calmly), the mistake that she made and why it was a mistake. She didn't cause the original problem, she just handled it badly. I would check the condition of the vehicle out and go from there. What's done is done.
Start by trying to find out what caused the overheating and if it caused any permanent engine damage. Some of the things that I mentioned earlier would be a good start, or you could have a certified auto tech take a look at it. It was really nice of you to lend the use of your car to someone. I am really sorry for the trouble you are having and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

blown head gaskets,holes in the top of pistons,spun bearings,warped block and heads, burned valves, but most likely you blew a head gasket

mazda rx -7 taiming

I would return it to the place that did the AC repair and tell them the scenario. They should fix it problem-free, considering they created the problem while fixing another one.

your car temp is hot because the air-con automatic fan/cooler on the condenser is not functioning. check the electrical connections from the switch as well as from the compressor. otherwise check the thermostat. the fan should run when the aircon is switched on.

1. check the fuse if there is. 2. switch on the wiper, if you hear a humming noise the motor and switch is okay. 3. if you don't hear anything, it the motor or the switch. 4. test the motor. plug off the two wires that connect to the motor (under the hood) place the two wires on the positive and negative battery poles. it runs, it is good, 5. test the switch. place a lamp to the two wires that lead to the wiper motor. if it lights, the switch is okay.

JUST LOOSEN THE BOLTS OF THE POWER STEERING PUMP TAKE OUT THE BELT FOR THE PUMP THEN REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR BELT AND STEERING PUMP.

REPLACE THE WATER PUMP.

you can take your vehicle to any service center or somewhere like auto zone or advanced auto they will either use an inductance ammeter to check for current flow (alternator charging) or a vat40 or similar machine which can check battery condition, starter (cranking draw),and your alternator if everthing checks out ok then you may have a poor or corroded battery connection, or your alternator may have a loose connection or a damaged wire. hope that helps

At the bottom of the pillar between the front and rear door is a round plastic plug that pops out of the plastic cover on the pillar. Inside is the electrical connection for the automatic seat belt mechanism. DISCONNECT it. Also in same hole at the bottom of the pillar is a hex head (allen wrench) bolt. Insert the proper size hex/allen wrench (six sided) into the head of the bolt and turn clockwise (if driver side) until you hear a CLICK. This will release the shoulder harness latch that is in the upper track in the window and it let's it return to the closed door and fastened belt position. DO NOT reconnect the power that you disconnected. This keeps the latch in a stationary position so you can use it manually. On the passenger side turn the hex bolt counter clockwise to release the latch and return it to the closed door position.
Now you have a shoulder harness system that is NOT automatic but it WORKS. You will have to manually latch the shoulder harness in addition to the lap belt. A TWO STEP process just like the older Toyotas. If you really want to fix the automatic system then you need to take apart the doors to get at the track and cables and motor--NOT EASY. Or you can let dealer fix for two hundred dollars each !

get a new panel and wire it up or let shop wire it up.