Pramac Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

TRY SOME LUCAS ENGINE OIL IT WILL HELP WITH THE STUCK VALVE!

It may have a seperate starter button

Remove the float bowl and clean out the debris where the bowl nut screw into the carb. Also make sure the bowl nut itself is clean. The fuel jet is directly above the bowl nut. When they sit for any length of time water from condensation causes corrosion that falls to the lowest part of the carb and clogs the jet. Check fuel flow by turning on the fuel while the bowl is removed. It should fill a spray paint can lid in 8 - 10 seconds or less. Make sure to spray carb cleaner into the bowl nut threaded area to clean the tiny jet orifice hole. You may have to use a toothpick to remove debris in this area. Do not force the toothpick into any holes. Use it like a scraper. Let me know if this does ot get you going. There is more that can be done.

Kelly

there is a screen in the tank at the shutoff valve best bet it to remove it and tear it out and use a in line filter where it is easier to replace

Start looking at your safety circuits.

1. High water temp
2. Low Oil
3. Low water etc...

From the manual these are the protection circuits.

• Engine protection: low oil pressure, high engine temperature.
• Genset protection: under/over voltage, overload, battery charger failure, battery voltage out of limits,
under/over frequency, start failure.
• Circuit breaker protection: IV poles.
• Differential protection.


Any one of them will trip the fuel relay closed. What you may be able to do is disconnect one at a time each protection circuit and see when the fuel relay opens. (Make sure to reconnect each one if it had no effect on the fuel solenoid)

Once you isolate which circuit it is in then you can chase wires or change the bad switch.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

This may sound over simplified but..... old battery cables corrode onboth ends so you have less amperage carried by the cables. (i.e. fewer strands of copper trying to carry more amperage than they are capable of. The next time you do a start cycle place your hands on the battery terminals one at a time and check to see if they are HOT to the touch. Also do the same thing for the chassis ground and the terminal lug at the starter. ANY hot terminal is a sign the cable has broke down either from age/vibration wear or corrosion. If you suspect the battery cables are bad get a VERY GOOD set of jumper cables (2 sets connected together if necessary) and do a direct from the battery to the starter connection. This is loads of amperage so be very careful and DO NOT do this alone. But, if the starter spins faster you have battery cable problems.

IF you have an external to the starter relay that too can cause the problem due to worn / defective contacts.

I will watch for any responses.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Try to check (move up and down) the level sensor if it is really in the external tank. The flowing bowl may be flooded.

You may have temp. sensor for a bank damaged, or its camshaft rolled over.

This likely has a diode module which rectifies a low voltage AC winding to do the charging.

Things to check: There USUALLY is a fuse on the low voltage winding. It SOMETIMES is within the generator covering.

Check for loose connections or broken wires.

The diode module is usually a 25 amp block about 1.25 inches square with 4 faston terminal connections.

Use a meter set to AC to check voltage on the AC terminals... might be around 18 volts or so.

Then on the DC terminals labeled + and - with meter set to DC.

To charge a 12 volt battery there needs to be about 13.75 volts or so.

Hi ,
firstly i would do a full service on it , all filter and fluids , oil/coolant water,fuel filter(s) and air filters
pay attention to any water seperators , check all fuel line connectors and unions are tight and in good order ( drawing a small amount of air into the fuel system if often the cause of ''a lack of power '')
check your diesel as it absorbs moisture and can severley effect the running of an engine .
if this has no effect
get a rag /goggles and the right size open ended spanner and slacken each fuel injector nut whilst the engine is running , listen for the engine noise going down , if it dosent this means the injector is deffective ( might need replacing or cleaning ) do this to each injector in turn , be very careful as you do this , the diesel is at 200bar pressure and can injected you ( hence the rag )
a final one is the fuel lift pump may be deffective , they often partially work and starve the engine at maximum revs , depending on your engine this will be an electric one or driven directly from the engine block , just follow the fuel lines from your diesel tank ,.
hope this helps

Refer to the NEC (National Electric Code) for ampacity rating of cables.

These depend on the wire size and insulation and the type of cable.

When in doubt or near a limit, go one size or two larger. When cable is long, go a couple sizes larger (smaller number).

There are two 14mm bolts on both sides (lower) of the motor. Unscrew one or both and drain the oil....Replace with sae 30 or 10w30 oil and should take almost a quart. (Put the bolts back in and tork slightly.) Check oil level.

Adjust engine speed

you should have a drain plug at the side and bottom of the motor crank case its a small plug with a square head how old is your generator if new put 10w30 oil if old put sae30w if really bad add some lucas oil treatment also now a 9 h.p. should take less then 2 quarts