Kicker Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

there are two different power supplies at work here that are acting against each other when you remove a fuse one power supply is cut and the other works fine in other words the system is not hooked up perfectly and one part does not need to be connected at all get advice from a radio repair shop

sounds like you need to get a 2nd amp for the woofer, then bridge the two amps but be sure to adjust the output mode to lpf for your woofer and hpf for the 6.5s. hope this helps.

bad amp. the blinking is an indication reading out a error code.

yes. i know where you can get them but this information i keep to myself. contact me at [email protected] and will get you some new cones (cover only parts need to be reused)

yes. google, impedance calculator and it will help you out on how to wire it

Ok, so you have a single 2 ohm speaker and a 4 ohm speaker with dual voice coils? The JBL Is a 2 Ohm load I believe.I ran through the maths...Series parallel with the 4 Ohms in series in parallel with the 2 Ohm gives you 1.6 Ohms2 x 4 ohms in parallel with a 2 ohm in series gives you 4 Ohms which is no good.All three in series give you 10 ohms which is no good.All three parallel gives 1 ohm.So with this set up you cannot create a perfect match. So you will always run the risk of bad audio or the amp blowing at high output.

I have contacted Kicker and Crutchfield, they can not help :( As my last resort i will try to resolder the connector. Apple IPod iPhone IPad 30 Way Female Connector Used on speaker docks NEW

U don't - if abused the insulation on speaker windings will expand and wedge the voice coil in the magnet gap. Only fix is to replace entire driver - sorry.

You need to figure out what ohm capacity is of the amp and the speakers. It then comes down to wiring.

first check to see that the fader is not programmed to the front speakers fading it rear might solve your problem, second if your stereo has a 4 ohm load requirement at the output and your new speakers are 8 ohms this will cut the power output in half, your best bet is to get an amp if these do not solve the problem.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?