Jeep Audio Players & Recorders - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

There is some help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Jeep+Boombox+Model+%23WPSS-1A+User+Manual The Power Adapter is here. https://www.google.com/search?q=Jeep+Boombox+Model+WPSS-1A+replacement+power+adapter ..

That phrase means please wait. The issue is the BCM

iam looking for parts for my Jeep JX-CHR Boombox

check antenna

If it is just a fluid issue, the problem is that there is air in the system, and every time air gets to the water pump, it can't pump anything. You need to pull it up on a sharp incline (as close as you can find to 45 degrees, run it for a bit and then turn it around on the hill to force the air out of the system. HOWEVER, I'd bet that it's the water pump. The water pumps used at that time had plastic impellers, and they disintegrate and little chunks get all through the coolant system. The dealership wanted almost $1,200 to replace it and I had to leave it for a week. I limped down the street to Firestone Auto Care and they did it for $450 in four hours. 50,000 miles later, no problems.

Probably the reverse sense switch on the transmission http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c205/kloppk/Rusty%202-10-09/AX-5PassengersSideCloseup1.jpg

Replacing the 2 dollar battery in the remote seems like the easiest solution but you can always find the control module somewhere under the dash to get a solid id.

It sounds like your fuel pump is failing.1997 2001 Jeep Cherokee Fuel Pump Module Replacement XJ step by step

If Fuel and Spark are Correct, it must be Air. Are any codes set? If so what are they. Check MAP Sensor 96 Jeep Cherokee MAP Sensor

If it's a 1999-2004 4.0 it's EASY!!! Go through the firewall under the dash it is EASY!! Here's how to do it: 1) Remove the plastic bottom panel directly under the gauges. It simply snaps up and out. 2) Locate the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower plastic panel under the steering column and remove them along with a few phillips head screws as well to free up the panel. Remove. 3) Look behind the console and you will see a small plastic "L" shaped duct that blows air to your feet. Snap it out of its position and remove the phillips screw holding it from under/behind (or cut the plastic flange with a razorknife halfway if the screw is hard to get at - takes a shorty phillips screwdriver. This way you can still snap it back on.) 4) Pull the carpet back and tuck it under the gas pedal. 5) You will see an oval metal plate that the shifter cable runs through as it passes through the firewall. Remove the 2 10mm nuts and pull the plate back. 6) VIOLA! There is the crankshaft position sensor staring you right in the face through the hole in the firewall you have exposed! 7) Insert 11mm socket with extension and remove/replace bolt with ease.

Dear Mary. All car alarm systems drain the battery after one week of the car not being used. Also, car batteries are not always fully charged on short trips because to start the engine on each short trip it drains a tremendous amount of power and a short trips do not recharge it fully. Have the car battery checked because the alarm is always on and on standby once installed, they usually have a small back-up battery in the alarm in case of car wires to the alarm have been cut, but that battery is always kept charged by the car battery, so, that is only causing a fraction of car battery discharge. However, to stop it from draining the battery you have to disconnect the alarm, and that is not a good idea. No car alarm that I have known have caused any car battery discharge, but of course if the car is not being used, or it is driven for short periods you are likely to experience a drained battery. Some batteries last more than 5 years not stop while cheaper ones have a lesser life expectancy, but again that depends on a lot of factors, heat from the engine, not enough charge because the alternator has a burnt diode, interior lights left on, too much cranking of the engine to start it and not enough miles done to recharge the battery. Try to get the battery checked and if you do not do any driving for a week, there are a number of solar powered battery charging panels that trickle charge it on sunny days but in winter I suggest you buy a charger that you can connect to the battery to keep it charged. Once charged the charger automatically cuts off and stays on stand-by until the car alarm has discharged it a bit, then the charger sensed the voltage drop and recharges it again, repeating the cycles until you need the car to go out. These small car battery maintenance chargers are inconvenient if you're not using the car too often. Some car alarm with go off when the car battery is disconnected. It's part of the protection the alarm offer. They may not be disconnected from the car battery unless you have a key that shuts off the alarm. But remember, the key shuts off the alarm but it doesn't mean it has disconnected the power from the battery. Check the pilot light status. If it flashes after the alarm key has been turned to off, it means the power is always there. Other alarms remain silent when the car battery has been disconnected from the clamps. If you garage the car at night, you can have a switch installed in the car that switches on the power to the car alarm or you can have the switch connected to a special relay activated Kill Switch that disconnects the battery altogether, but if your car alarm starts to squeal, then you don't need this switch. so try it first, disconnect the car battery and see if the alarm goes off. If not, then the Kill Switch is an option. If it goes off, then there is nothing you can do but to try and have the car battery checked and if you're not driving much or drive short trips, either a solar charger or a Mains powered auto charger can be used to keep the battery trickle charged. But before I go, you say you got an after market car alarm. Looks like it has been wrongly wired, who know. Have it checked by whoever installed it. Good luck.

P1494: EVAP Leak Detection Pump Pressure Switch Condition http://www.autocodes.com/p1494_jeep.html

You will need to remove the door card and inspect the door latch it may be defective.

There is no dipstick it is a sealed transmission. All models have been this way since around 2004.

Have you run a fault code test on the system? If not do so and see what shows up.

Passenger side of your engine, midway down, just ahead of the transmission

depends on load , case ply rating, speed , operating conditions for a normal highway tire 35-38 psi some tire manufacturers run different tire pressures to suit tire construction so talk with a tire retailer for best specifications tire pressures are also on the compliance plate for tires on the door pillar or door edge

well answer to your question , yes they do have lots of pressure (60 to 110 psi) that's a lot !! second the device that its job is to regulate the fuel pressure is the fuel pressure regulator , now more modern types use a sensor and a separate pressure relief device but in your case its all in one device , follow your fuel injectors fuel supply rail to there end !! there your gonna see a black device with three lines run to it (one is fuel input, one is fuel return to tank, one is manifold vacuum ) all these hoses need to be ck for holes/cracks/kinks/ b4 you replace the regulator

there is probably nothing wrong with the compressor the pulley cab be removed and the bearing replaced if necessary if the clutch coil is going to ground and blowing fuses then that also can be replaced all without removing the compressor from the vehicle the not blowing cold air could be that the ac clutch is not engaging either fro going to ground or a faulty ac relay that is going to ground I suggest that you find an accredited ac specialist and get a proper diagnosis and a quote first as the replacement compressor ( if a different gas is used ) will require a complete system replacement and not just the compressor as proposed even then compressors are not cheap so checks first may save you lots of cash