If it is just a fluid issue, the problem is that there is air in the system, and every time air gets to the water pump, it can't pump anything. You need to pull it up on a sharp incline (as close as you can find to 45 degrees, run it for a bit and then turn it around on the hill to force the air out of the system.
HOWEVER, I'd bet that it's the water pump. The water pumps used at that time had plastic impellers, and they disintegrate and little chunks get all through the coolant system. The dealership wanted almost $1,200 to replace it and I had to leave it for a week. I limped down the street to Firestone Auto Care and they did it for $450 in four hours. 50,000 miles later, no problems.
depends on load , case ply rating, speed , operating conditions
for a normal highway tire 35-38 psi
some tire manufacturers run different tire pressures to suit tire construction so talk with a tire retailer for best specifications
tire pressures are also on the compliance plate for tires on the door pillar or door edge
there is probably nothing wrong with the compressor
the pulley cab be removed and the bearing replaced if necessary
if the clutch coil is going to ground and blowing fuses then that also can be replaced all without removing the compressor from the vehicle
the not blowing cold air could be that the ac clutch is not engaging either fro going to ground or a faulty ac relay that is going to ground
I suggest that you find an accredited ac specialist and get a proper diagnosis and a quote first as the replacement compressor ( if a different gas is used ) will require a complete system replacement and not just the compressor as proposed
even then compressors are not cheap so checks first may save you lots of cash
well answer to your question , yes they do have lots of pressure (60 to 110 psi) that's a lot !!
second the device that its job is to regulate the fuel pressure is the fuel pressure regulator , now more modern types use a sensor and a separate pressure relief device but in your case its all in one device , follow your fuel injectors fuel supply rail to there end !! there your gonna see a black device with three lines run to it (one is fuel input, one is fuel return to tank, one is manifold vacuum ) all these hoses need to be ck for holes/cracks/kinks/ b4 you replace the regulator
Lights inside come on, so you have a working battery and connections to it
Not even a click when trying to start. You already know the battery is good, so that means you're not getting any power at all into the starter.
From that, I'd start with looking in your manual for the location of the fuse(s) for the starter motor / solenoid.The starter, like most other important subsystems in the car, is on it's own fuse, to help protect it in the case of a short circuit (especially since the starter draws a ton of electrical current)
If it's not a fuse, there'll also be a relay for the starter, to handle the larger current draw. Check that too.
A longer shot, though it's happened to me once, is that the primary positive lead wire from the battery usually comes down to the starter first, with tons of other circuits picking up their hot lead at the same screw terminal. It's possible that this wire (or the nut holding it to the threaded post on the starter body) is loose. You should be able to trace the wire from starter to battery + lead (be careful what you touch) and just wiggle it gently to see if it's loose. Tighten if necessary.
Hoping that might help. A problem with the actual key switch could also do it, but again, you seem to be able to turn it on enough that the cabin electrical comes on.
Cheers
D
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