JBL Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

I have the same problem and the same conditions.
The tweeter is good, 3.8 ohms.
Some points of solding (donuts), have bad aspect.
I resolder the power transistors to the PCB and I solve the problem.

Same here. Streaming from Spotify from iPhone5..... every 10 minutes enters sleep mode. WTF? No idea how to get around it. Only FW upgrade I guess, if there any...

I had a problem with the speakers not working properly. The green lights lit, but the amount of sound coming from the speakers compared to that of the sub was much lower.
I decided to take it the speakers apart.
I found that the magnets on the speakers had moved forward slightly in the plastic cage they sat in. I pushed them back as far as they would go, and Hey Presto! working again!
I hope this helps someone!

Hi,

Initially, have you tried a full hard reset? The reset button is at the panel at the back of the faceplate, bottom left side. Of course doing so will also erase all presets and user settings & configurations.

Additionally, pls verify that the multiple contacts pins are clean, free of corrosion and makes a positive contact with its mate at the rear of the faceplate. If the unit is used in a salty environment, it may be necessary to manually scrape of whatever blue green build up develops between the connector pins and the plastic insulator. You can try using an old toothbrush and WD40.

Further to check are:
1. the red, yellow and black wire are tightly connected where they are supposed to be connected. If the unit is used onboard, it might be to your advantage to likewise check the grounding system;
2. one of the rear connector is for a remote, pls likewise check that none of the pins are shorting and no presence of any corrosion.

If problem persists, it may be necessary to seek the services of a qualified professional as this involves opening the unit up and tracing the circuitry of the logic/controller circuit.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

i have the same problem. don't as yet have a solution

What passkey do I need to connect to a monitor

PAIRING THE JBL SB400 FOR WIRELESS OPERATION After turning the soundbar and subwoofer on for the first time, you will need to "pair" the subwoofer and soundbar so they both operate at the same wireless frequency. To pair the units, press the Wireless Pairing switches on both units within 30 seconds of each other. The units will communicate with each other and operate at the same frequency.

You are not summing the signal you have one side out of phase with the other. Swop + & - around on one speaker.

It blows the fuse because a semiconductor device has developed a short (in otherwords acting like it was just a piece of wire). Because of the noise I would suspect the main amp device is the cause. It will be most likely on a heatsink.

As long as its not blowing the fuse it can be saved - look for Edwards Electronics - Ebay - We fix them . Thanks.

Should have used a giddy height
I’m afraid a good height is not good enough

Also I note that you are turning it on
I read that the proper procedure is OFF & ON again

I recomend joining the Percussion section of your local Orchestra to make full use of your modified device

Access free Product Manuals. Safe download. findproductmanuals.com I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/latoya_8ed1bf3dc615c15d

If the red light is flashing you have a short in a speaker wire. IF that light is on all the time it indicates that the voltage to the amp is too high.

Page 168 of the manual onwards.

2008 Toyota Solara Owners Manual and Warranty - Toyota ...

www.toyota.com > owners > resources > solara > 2008

Find everything you need to know about your 2008 Toyota Solara in the owners manual from Toyota Owners. ..

The process involved in troubleshooting and repairing that amp requires specialized tools and meters. You would need to check all the capacitors to see if they are okay by using ESR and capacitance meters, To check the semiconductors you need to unsolder at least one leg and check them unless they are integrated multistaged devices. IF they are you need to check their current draw.

An answer I given to another post. While walking in my neighborhood, a JBL PB10 was thrown away for garbage pickup. I can use another subwoofer so I brought the orphan JBL PB10 home. It has the same problem. I am a retired electrical engineer. If I get the schematic, I might be able to fix it. I indeed found the service manual from the following URL. It turned out you can fix the problem by just cutting off one pin of a transistor. I don't think most people are interested in theory, but just a brief and then the solution. JBL PB10 service manual http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10004/JBL%20PB10%20Service.pdf The manual is for the version 6.3 circuit board. I have a version 7.3. But, they are the same for my purposes. The LED lights are controlled by an integration circuit shown on page 28. When the signal at the low level line input is smaller than 5mv rms, the LED lights are set to red. In the meanwhile, the integration circuit set the Q1 junction FET transistor to on so the SIG signal is grounded to subdue any nuisance of noises (no sound produced). When there is a significant signal at the line input, the integration circuit set the LED light to green and turns off the Q1 transistor so the SIG signal can be freely amplified by the AIM power amplifier.When the integration circuit malfunctions, most probably C42 fails (could also be C40 and/or C41). I don't have any capacitors at hand to fix so I just cut off one of the three pins in the Q1 transistor to disable it from grounding the SIG signal. Q1 location could be found on page 26. The pin to cut off is one of the two outer pins. It is the one further away from C40. Once you cut the pin off, the sound will be back. But the LED lights remain red.

Hello
For the JBL Awake
I just had the same issue and i found a way to solve this :
1. Unplug the power supply
2. Plug it back while holding the [ON/OFF] button
3. The screen shows “UP9” again
4. Do the update with the JBL Music app (I did it with my old iPhone 4s plugged on the 30pin connector)
5. Finish the firmware update ... until the app tells you to unplug the power before restarting the device
(Sorry for my bad English, i’m French)

To reset JBL LINK VIEW PRESS THE PHYSICAL VOLUME UP & DOWN BUTTON TOGETHER FOR ABOUT 8 SECONDS ....CHEERS

Maybe because they are difficult to find now a days and there are a lot of them around too.

Check your charger point