Jamo Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

to rectify this problem you will have to replace few capacitors in the power supply circuit. Caps to replace are C16, C17, C21, C26, C27, C32, C47. Be very careful with two screws located under the heat sink. DO NOT MIX THEM WITH THE REST OF THE SCREWS.

Hi,
You don't need such cable, although you can use it if you have one. If receiver has only mono SUB output (as majority of receivers have), you just connect it to the Left socket on the Sub and it will work.

Using the Y cable would probably cause that you will fed the same signal to both left and right sockets, but half the intensity (you would divide the output from receiver by 2). So in the end the Sub would receive exactly the same signal as when using normal straight cable.

For PC music ( I suppose mainly mp3) you don't need any extra-quality amp, any older Yamaha stereo amp will do. I don't know which of them are available in stores near you, but if you write some model numbers I can check their specs and advise more.
If your PC has spdif output (coax or optical) go for amp which has digital input available.

Try doing an auto-calibration through your amp to check that all the speakers are correctly connected, if they are then try play around with the EQ. otherwise, chances are it's a manufacturing fault

i have a pair if you want, 07985481708

You need to determine if the power is getting to the audio amp section. For instance with the volume full up is it humming etc?
As a 'rule' it's unlikely that both left and right channels will fail at the same time (unless you have done something silly with the amp) you are looking for something that is common to both channels. Which is why the power section is first suspect. The exception to the rule (above) is where amps use say an IC power amp for both channels. You will find this IC on the big heat sink. Check whatever is on that anyway for damage or burning.
The only other area could be the pre-amp part. Again this could be a single IC controling both channels, so it's failure could cause a loss of sound. By the way if you can hear music/sound coming through when you put it up to full volume the pre-amp will be generaly good.

I could be replaced even if not the original what make and modle is it Pro Line Music 215-736-8055

Hi.

The first step is ensuring that it does not depend on the speaker.

I assume that talking about center speaker you do not refer to a sub-woofer, but to a 5+1 surround system center speaker. In that case the center speaker will be passive, and can be swapped with one of the side speakers.

Ensure that center speaker wires are connected properly, and that positive and ground are not inverted.

Try swapping the center speaker with a side one, so to see if the problem depends on the speaker. If the problem depends on the speaker, then replace the speaker.
Use the same technique to test the speaker wiring (if this is not integrated with speaker). Swap cable and eventually replace wires if defective.

If the problem does not depend on the speaker, then the DMR 60 is faulty. Probably a contact or a faulty component on audio output circuit.

In that case, instead of disassembling the unit and starting to test , I suggest contacting Jamo, at the number written on user manual, and getting the unit replaced or repaired.

If you cannot find your local Jamo contact , write them an email at [email protected]. , or see Contact.

Use the PRE-OUT SW (subwoofer) output and connect it to the left RCA socket of your subwoofer.

More likely there is a bad solder connection or a bad connector contact inside the unit, could also be a blown or dried up electrolytic capacitor.

Check the line signal input plugs, if they are soldered directly to the board then check the solder around the pins - if it has circular cracks, you need to resolder the pins.

Also check any other components on the board for such cracks on the pins, including internal connectors, disconnect, clean the pins if necessary and reconnect them.

If any electrolytic capacitors have a bulged top, they are blown and need to be replaced.

It could as well be something else, but your description suggests either a fault at the input connectors or some trouble with the input signal level sensing circuitry (no signal to the sensing circuit may be caused by connectors, no response from the sensing circuit may be caused by bad capacitors or other faulty components in or around that section).

Hope you can find out what it is and fix it...

regards

3rq8 (Triarcuate)

if so let me know. I will buy the control unit off of you. email me at [email protected]

there will be bad caps on the power supply pcb assy,change those capactors that have been bubbled,tops pushed outward, and it should work.

no the problem is not solved, not a happy camper :(

tech support might say its this charge me then get it repaired by a techy
.

Sounds like your unit is toast. Almost any unit made by any manufacture will work with your speakers. Here is the website http://www.jamo.com/na-en/ of Jamo. If your unit is bad, the Jamo DMR 70 would be a direct replacement for your unit. Jamo http://www.jamo.com/na-en/products/dmr-70-description/ or you can contact them at 1-877-456-JAMO or send us an email:[email protected]. and possibly have yours repaired if it is cost effective which it may not be. Now the good news is your Jamo DMR 60 has a 24 month warranty so you should get it repaired free of charge. Call Jamo today.

these guys just want our money

YOU NEED TO PLUG THE RCA INTO THE SUBOUT FROM THE AMP,THUS YOU ONLY USE 1 CABLE FOR THE SUB

Clean the head,if it not load the disc you need to change the head unit.

your prplem in the circuit inside there capaster for that

have you tried changing the charger or charging it through a computer. some chargers are too outdated for the ipod to charge!

one will do just fine if you've tried one and its not working try to refer to manual on how to set up in the receiver function menus and if the sub is powered by an external amp which most are