Jamo Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

try replace the blown fuse with ampere and check the sound if still ok.
some fuse got blown if the load current exceed. maybe high volume can cause the high current.
other cause by short circuit coming from the amplifier.

The TX has speaker setup and test tones for setting the balance and distance with test tones and proving the hardware works. If that all works the difference is probably external or settings.

What is different between the music source(s) audio and the HD movie source(s) audio? Ask yourself, how would a sub make high frequencies go missing? It can't.


Your other speakers are responsible for conveying the high frequencies.

Maybe your remote control experience some accidental dropping which can developed cracks on board or cold solder on some parts specially the Infra red LED terminal. try re soldering ..

This problem is from the main board, if you try to remove the cover of your unit you will see the main board try to check the solder parts of the pcb. for sure you will see loosed solder or cold solder specially the filter capacitor and the power transistor. If you see this loosed solder try to resolder it but be sure to unplug your unit before opening the cover. before replacing the amp. lets make some basic trouble shooting who knows you might fix it. Feel free to send feed back best regards.

That is a subjective question. Set it/them up in accordance with the manuals and you will achieve something close to the best they are capable of (*).

* If you're looking at those jumpers on the back, leave them alone and read up on the myth of biwiring (buy-wiring).

The 10 Biggest Lies in Audio:

http://www.theaudiocritic.com/downloads/article_1.pdf

Look on the web for more.

Those settings would be through your electronics that drives the speakers, usually using test tones and either special microphones or your own ears. Look at the manuals.

replace all caps in the power supply section, or send it to me , 727-289-9746

Refer to the applicable Jamo manual.

http://www.jamo.com/na-en/support/owners-manuals/

http://www.jamo.com/images/download/313.aspx

Check the red and white cables or use different ones

Hi.
This sounds like a resistor problem.
Most likely, when it got shipped to you, it jarred the electronics inside.

Now, because there are several resistors inside of it, I don't recommend just trying to replace them yourself.
I would take it to Fry's, Best Buy, or Radio Shack.

They have electronics repair technicians, and they know how to find the bad resistors quite easily with their testing tools.

I say resistors, as opposed to capacitors.
If it was that, the unit would turn on, and then always shut off within a couple of seconds.

I hope this helps you know what is going on, and I hope it gives you some idea as to what to do next.

Good luck to you, and have a good day.

select the voltage selector swich if it has one and also check fr the frequency and also buy converter fr 110 volts

Find it here...

http://www.jamo.com/na-en/support/owners-manuals/

http://www.jamo.com/images/download/779.aspx


The Jamo is self-amplified and accepts Line Level input ONLY.

The HTP-2500 receiver drives a subwoofer directly with SPEAKER LEVEL output only and does not have a volume-controlled output for driving externally-amplified devices.

You have to configure the VSX to provide LFE to the sub. Look in the manual.

You can replace DVD unit with one est?ndar for pc. The only thing you must do is remove the front of the tray.

hi,
Do one thing set the control behind the sub. set the level and cutoff control at it half position. Set phase control at "0" position. Then test the sound. if you ate using tower speaker as front speaker then you have to set the position of phase control 180 ,
ok

This site says that's a tweeter...

http://www.speakerbits.com/products/speakers/horn-tweeter-diaphragms/list-170.aspx

Hi:
First thing to do is examine the dock's connector to make sure it is not loose from the constant pluging up of the Ipod to the dock. You may just have a bad connection on the dock's connector, also try unpluging the dock from power for at least 5 mins then reapply power to the unit to reset the unit. If you still have problems check with the manufactures websites problem forum to see if anyone is or has had this problem before you. If it is a usb connection from the dock to the main unit check its connections also for either loose connector itself or bad input on the connection.

There are no official (or unofficial) universal remote codes for Jamo DVD players or any Jamo product.

The actual universal (and one-for-all) remotes are available, but there aren't any preset codes for this brand or model unit.

Since there are only two choices you could quickly try each of them. Or feed them both with the single LFE input and an RCA splitter.

Have you looked at the manuals?

http://www.retrevo.com/search?q=sony+nx810

A TV won't run external speakers directly. Besides, the TV-related audio should originate at, say, the cable Box, and go straight to your (presumed) AV receiver for the best possible decoding and reproduction.


Buzzing is an analog phenomenon and is NOT carried by optical cable in any case.

Buzzing is usally AC line noise leaking into an un-shielded cable somewhere or a floating ground. If the AC plug is reversible, try that. Sometimes the buzz is from an attached device. Make sure all audio cables are plugged in tightly at each end and routed away from or at right angles to any power cords and away from other sources of strong magnetic fields like TV's. I've also seen variable track lights induce noise but it's usually minor.

Try rotating the power cord in the wall outlet.

If it still buzzes with no cables or anything external attached there's an internal problem.

Disconnect the input(s) and see if it hums in the absence of an audio source. A bad audio cable shield or unwisely-routed audio cables will allow entrance of unwanted signals from external power sources, magnetic fields, even dimmer-controlled track lights. Sometimes, simply reversing the orientation of the ac power plug can eliminate humming.

Reverse the cables Left to Right to see if it stays with the cable or the input channel. Follow it back to the source, isolating in the same manner. Eventually you will find the entrance point of the hum. Frequently a cable's ground will oxidize over time and simply removing and reattaching the cable with a twisting motion will re-establish the shield.