Jaguar Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

yes I have your answer seen this vast times and know how to find this. first off NO COUNTRY TOLD at all , not one clue and PCM are not the same world wide, for sure the OBD2 or EOBD jack. The USA car pin 16 OBD2 jack is power +12vdc, hot.. https://components101.com/connectors/obd2 if not the fuse to that pin is blown FOR SURE. or not using OBD2 2008 newer scan tool the old tools can not do CAN_BUS comms, in fact the pins are missing if you look. pin 6 and 14 must not be missing on the tool or dead. if the car warns you any bulb on car is out,it has CAN_BUS CAN has been a standard on some US cars and light trucks since 1994, but it wasn't made mandatory until 2008 (2001 for European vehicles). CAN_bus here. (the best tools are 2008 up) IMO> ! and this ISO spec,. CAN. 1898-5:2007 , (best ) this is why 2008 cars have and JAG and FORD are married. https://www.scantool.net/blog/how-do-i-know-whether-my-car-is-obd-ii-compliant/

I have worked on a 2003 x-type with the same problem. Unplug your fluid level float and e brake switch. Remove instrument cluster. On the right side connector,(White) cut the zip tie on the connector, slide the white clip off on the left side of the connector. It should slide out of the connector. You want to cut 2 black wires from pin 12 and 15. Pin 12 (Master cylinder float) will be the second from the right in the top row. Pin 15 (E brake switch) will be the one all the way on the left on the bottom row. Make sure you cut about 3 inches from the connector. Plug the instrument cluster back in and check if the light went out. If it goes out, you have a short in the harness. You will have to run a new wire to the float or e brake switch. If it stays on, strip all 4 wires and connect them all together and solder them. Check to see if the light went out. If it is out, you just saved yourself from replacing the instrument cluster. This happens when one of the outputs does not have the needed 10 volts comming out of it. By combining them it gives the 10 volts or more to the dead side of the input. If you still have a brake light after combining them, then get a fuse holder and a fuse tap and put a .5 amp fuse in it and combine it to the four that are combined. Make sure you fuse tap a fuse that goes on and off with the ignition switch. If this fails, then you have a bad instrument cluster. About $150 online.

NO YEAR CAR TOLD NO COUNTRY (or VIN) NO ENGINE TOLD, impossible. the answer is is USA or N.America cars. here (read the service manual) 1983 UP only https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

The common cause could have faulty ignition switch.use test light to check if power going to starter if not check ignition fuse to starter.if power going to starter, more likely starter solenoid or starter faulty.if ignition fuse okay and starter and solenoid okay still no start problem could be in the ignition switch or inhibitor switch faulty.

Sounds like overfill oil pressure too high. Oil level is critical. Engine can be damaged.
See my Solution for oil change.

the video will be too long do that right. plenty there most are dead wrong. step 1, evacuation, not done. learn to google this, or buy book on topic, no lack of good books on topic, endless. really. take the ASE class , on HVAC

do not guess, or wreck the transmission you will millions have,. now./ so bad they took the dipstick off. some can only be done with the transmission hot. and in a specific range of hot, via the scan tool sorry RTM read the manual fully. sorry too xj8 many have many kinds of transmissions. is car a USA car? no told country, and engines and trans vary by you guessed it, the sold to 1st country the VIN tells this. not told. ZF 6SPEED BOX THERE WERE RECALLS ON THE ZF LISTED UNDER JAG TSBS' THERE ARE 12 TSB IN FACT RELATED TO TRANS. ERRORS DONE BY OWNERS

1. WRONG FLUID ADDED, ATF. EXACT TYPE.
2. ADDING TOO MUCH,
3. NOT ADDED IN PARK
4. NOT ADDED HOT ENGINE OR AT RIGHT TEMP, TRANS SENSOR TOLD. each box has and exact temperature to test levels.
5. OVERFILLED IT AND IT FOAMED UP STARvING BEARINGS AND ALL BEARINGS A WRECK (FOAM IS AIR AND AIR IS NOT ANY GOOD AS A LUBRICANT.
6. read the service manual on your car, from the dealer in your country./

in what country is car, or sold to new.?first. VIN codes tell this. RHD cars are not like LHD USA uses LHD, see? left hand drive. this is a WWW forum word wide , and can not be guessed ever. your dealer has service manual. or your dealers web site shows the BCM and where it fits on the car. most do. better makers of cars sure do. and question #1 by them is VIN, no vin NO JOY. period also know that BCMs lie to you (as do all computers on earth) if battery voltgage is slow 10vdc is fail, or alternator is bad caused battery to fail (cause true and effects all)( did you scan your car first. see DTC errors first and check all fuses first firsts? loose or rusty battery lugs? clean them or reset the BCM ,by pulling battery neg lug for 1hour. ? or more. there are some Idea's hope i saved you $500 USD

I hope the God that you have not gone to the dealer to get this simple thing done.
Call me and I will do my best to coach you a process that should take you about 20 minutes the first time. my number is 407.718.6145
Regards,
Frenchie

Question edited for clarity Question moved to model category. Why do you want to cook and clear the computer? You can clear it by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, but you open up a whole can of worms, resetting the anti-theft system and immobilizer, finding the radio code and all the things that need re-learning. The proper way to clear codes is with a scan tool. If you want to clear all historical data, you need a pro grade scan tool COMPUTER, and that is what you need now, not to clear the codes but to diagnose all the computer modules, sensors, and transmission solenoids that are causing the issue. It is a known issue and it might be a cheap fix if it is the shift linkage. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Jaguar+S-type+3.0%2C+won%27t+move+in+gear ..

You need to do a full drive cycle if they cleared the ECM. It is more specific than driving at 50. https://www.google.ca/search?q=drive+cycle+procedure ..

Question edited to clarity. Question moved to model category. It has a speed limiter on it because the tyres are not rated for its top speed. I wonder if that is what the 'L' stands for? https://www.google.com/search?q=2011+jaguar+xjl+speed+governor+problems& The base car will execute 0-60 mph runs in 5.4 seconds; with the supercharged 470-hp engine, it'll take only 4.9 seconds; and in the Supersport it's estimated at just 4.7 seconds. All versions are limited to a top speed of 155 mph ..

It is a regulatory safety device. You need to fix the Emergency Brake, not find a way around defeating it. Check out the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+jaguar+s+type+emergency+handbrake+release ..

you can reset the engine warning light by taking the earth lead off the battery and connecting it to the positive lead, then switch on the ignition,. Reconnect the earth lead to the battery and the light will have been reset. What you are doing is discharging the diagnostic chip to earth, which is exactly what the jaguar main dealer equipment does.This works on all cars.
PLEASE NOTE, make sure you disconnect the earth lead from the battery .

Unfortunately this is a well known issue and well documented. https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+Jaguar+XF+3+liter+Diesel.+Water+in+diesel+warning+light ..

There is a small bulb or an LED under the cover. Some are replaceable, some are soldered.

Question moved from 'Edge Computers'. It could be that the compressor itself is failing. It could be the electronic clutch on the unit. It could be the belt slipping if it makes a loud unnatural squealing noise. That is very low mileage at nearly 13 thousand miles, but as a 1994, the AC may need refrigerant gas.

The car is showing a hard code which I would need to tell what is the problem when the computer locks it out it mean a danger problem is set good luck Mike L.

you have fault in the ecm network malfunction.

code --dealer with vin and proof of ownership