Jaguar Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Replacing a blown heater hose requires the engine coolant to be cool in order for you to not be burned. If the hose has burst a substantial amount of coolant will already have been lost. Identify each end of the hose and remove any hold down attachment clamps. Remove the clamps from the hose where it attaches to the engine and at the heater core. Obtain a new heater hose of the same size (diameter and length). Slide end clamps (best to have new clamps) onto the hose (each end) for a distance of about 2 inches.Connect the new hose into place by sliding the new hose over the bard-like connectors. Slide the clamps back toward the ends of the hose and tighten. Fill the radiator with 50/50 antifreeze mixture. Crank the engine and allow the thermostat to open (opens automatic when appropriate temperature is achieved). Continue to slowly add antifreeze until the radiator is full and most/all of the air has been removed. Replace the radiator cap. Add antifreeze mixture to the remote reservoir until the proper fluid level is obtained. Check for leaks. Check the temperature gauge if equipped. Turn on the heater (high) and observe the coolant level in the reservoir. If it drops substantially add more antifreeze. Drive the car for several blocks and check for leaks and reservoir level. Add antifreeze if needed. If the heater hose is the GM hose with molded on attachment ends, get a shop to replace the hoses as the ends require special disconnect tools and the ends are prone to break when removing them. Replacing a radiator hose is much the same procedure as replacing a heater hose, except there maybe more difficulty in removing the radiator hose and it may be more messy. Be sure to obtain the correct hose from an auto parts store. It is best to use new hose clamps. Allow the air to escape as described above, including running the heater.

I'm not sure of the years but your model may have been under ford management. Chances are you changer is common in other years and models. I have a Ford expedition an had trouble fixing and then finding a replacement which made the price of it ridiculous. I crossed over some numbers a found there were literally tons out there but for a different vehicle and at a fraction of the price. Direct plug n play...

Check your fuses. Also check the control knob for your headlights. If you turn the knob, it usually controls the dash lights.

It's in the nearside wheel arch, at the bottom towards the rear.

You can find a chiltons or haynes manuel at most auto parts dealers that will give you detailed instructions on how to do your task.

Vacuum leak. Hand-over-hand inspect the vacuum lines for the leak, and fixya with a bit of duct-tape or a new hose.

Common problem, the slanted rear tires. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/ and search for the fix.

Typical Jaguar Dealership attitude. You didn't have them repair the collision damage, and they are punishing you. Great car, lousy dealer attitude. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x308-xj8-xjr-27/ and do a search. If no help found, join the forum and post this question.

There are a number of posts at ttp://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/ on this subject, some with photos and step-by-step instructions. Do a search. The type of fluid you use is critical in the Jaguar X-Type automatic transmission, not so much for the manual tranny. Read up on it, those transmissions cost a BIG bundle to replace..

Check the connection to the fluid level sensor for corrosion. Try jumping the connection with a paperclip to see if the light goes out - if it does, replace the sending unit.

There ARE NO BOGS and SPUTTERS with or in a Jaguar. It is the finest automobile ever built!

Battery likely shot. X-Types simply eat batteries. Could be bad cables or corroded connections, too. Turn the lights on and try to crank the car. If the lights go out, (or fail to even turn on) then problem is one of the above. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/ and do a few searches. If no answer found, join the forum and post your question, Member "Thermo" will have the 100% answer to your problem, I promise. He wires up Jaguar X-Types AND nuclear submarines. The X-Type is about as complicated as the nuclear submarine, but is a great World-Class car. Congrats on your ownership of it.

Battery likely shot. X-Types simply eat batteries. Could be bad cables or corroded connections, too. Turn the lights on and try to crank the car. If the lights go out, (or fail to even turn on) then problem is one of the above. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/ and do a few searches. If no answer found, join the forum and post your question, Member "Thermo" will have the 100% answer to your problem, I promise. He wires up Jaguar X-Types AND nuclear submarines. The X-Type is about as complicated as the nuclear submarine, but is a great World-Class car. Congrats on your ownership of it.

Ahhh, you have the notorious Jaguar always-on passenger airbag light, too - eh? So do I. I "fixed" mine by covering the light with a spot of black tape. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/ and search for the problem in the specific sub-forum to your car. That one is usually related to a bad ground to the passenger seat, or a loose wire under the seat, but it can be a myriad of things. You will find ideas and answers at the forum website if you search. Just reach up under the seat and start wiggling any and all the wires you find. More often than not, that will fixya! The Jaguar dealership will charge you an arm, a leg, and your first-born to effect the repair if it is not under warranty or recall. The folks at the Jaguar forum will charge you nothing to diagnose your problem and tell you how to fix it yourself, and do a better job.

Best chance of a precise answer to that question is at http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/ Helpful people, and they can answer EVERY Jag question, every model. Join, read the "New Member" instructions, and ask away. If i were to guess, I would venture it to be a clogged cat convertor. Great instructions on that forum on how to service one by soaking it in citric acid (vitamin "C'). Works better than replacing with aftermarket unit.

More than likely is the "Blend Door", a common Jaguar problem - most all older models. Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/ and search for specific problem, answers abound.

Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-15/ and do a search. Consider joining the forum, it is a great place for instructions and ideas. Nice folk there. PS - You made an excellent choice in cars! Nothing beats a Jaguar. If you will notice, that little print message in the passenger-side rear-view mirror does NOT say "Things in mirror are closer than they appear": on a Jaguar it says "Things in mirror are losing"

Wiggle the wires on each of the wheel speed sensor units. They are the likely problem, and the connection is the likely cause. The sensors are the only thing down there in the wheel-well with wires to them, and are easy enough to find!

Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/ and do a search for the codes you are getting, or the specific problems you are having. Consider joining this forum, they can answer ALL questions you may have now or in the future about the car, and are really nice folks! (and to answer this question as asked: Yes, the transmission on a Jaguar usually is the fault!) Your Jaguar is a World-Class Motorcar. Do NOT drive it like it is a Sportscar, it ain't. The very first thing you will "munch" will be the transmission if you do. I know, I learned the hard way. My Jag was over ten years old when I had to replace the transmission. That alone set me back over seven-and-a-half thousand dollars. Even though your car can likely go over 150 mph, take your time getting to high speeds. "Goosing" it is the #1 tranny killer. (The other killer is the 150 mph. at that speed, if you can take your foot from the gas pedal to the brake pedal in 3/4 of a second, you will have traveled 165 feet before you even start stomping down on the brake!) See ya in the forums! Bruce.

Adjust the tricky trans band in trans make sure gears arent shredding away and torque converter is up to date