Electrical Supplies - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Check the draft inducer air switch ( vacuum diaphragm switch) If the switch is opening when the burner starts, you might have a blockage on air piping coming into the furnace. Also prime the condensate trap on the condensate drain from the combustion fan. Also check the gas pressure, if your gas pressure is dropping, the gas pressure switch will shut it down. If it's too high the moment it comes on could raise the pressure in the furnace dropping out the combustion fan proving switch.

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Nov 22, 2010


Hi,

I would get an amp metetr on it and see what the load is.... if it is running continually at over 40 amp. then you are overloading it...and need to shed some load...

If it is not then the breaker is going bad and needs to be replaced...

heatman101

Electric General... | Answered on Nov 16, 2010


Take your voltmeter and verify your voltage at the switch. If it is 11.5 or better, try reversing the motor. Reverse direction requires less ampreage to run and should work fine, then try forward or wind.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Electric... | Answered on Nov 04, 2010


Are you sure you have correct number? Here is a link to an online cataloghttp://www.fujielectric.com/fecoa/pdf/mccb_pdf/USEH605a.pdf

The ones in this catalog are UL listed. If your number is correct, it may be an import that is in fact not UL listed. Contact Fugi direct to clarify.http: //www.fujielectric.com

Electric Fuji ... | Answered on Oct 02, 2010


There must be a short in this circuit. First determine what devices are connected to the circuit that is not working. Unplug any device plugged into the non working outlets. Try again. If unit still trips, Try to start at the logical beginning of the circuit to see if you can begin disconnecting until circuit is clear. It could be a bad switch, light, or receptacle. What does the circuit control?

Electric... | Answered on Sep 24, 2010


I am wiring a Superwinch 4500 to my Yamaha Rhino.
Problem the two red wires go to the key switch.
Do they just splice into the 12 wire ?

Electric... | Answered on Sep 21, 2010


It is a clear case of metal contacts getting heated/melted/burn out due to overload/short-circuit inside. Please get the circuit breakers replaced with a new one to avoid fire hazard.

Electric... | Answered on Jul 31, 2010


You can do it by a UPS like system, but do you think, that you will pay less for it.
Your generator produces power and uses fuel proportional to the output power.
The efficiency of the generator at half or low load is less, than on full, but that of the UPS and the battery is much much less than this.

Electric... | Answered on Jul 21, 2010


That kiln requires a 30 amp circuit, minimum. 24 amps x 125%= 30 amps per National Electric Code (NEC).

Without more info, I'll need to make a few assumptions. For the sake of estimating the cost I'll present the following scenario:

1...The distance from your electric panel to the pergola is approximately 100 feet.

2...The circuit will be underground. I'll assume that you will be able to hire someone to dig an 18 inch deep trench from the electric panel to the pergoda for $10 hr. While this should only take 3 or 4 hrs, depending on soil conditions, it could take all day. So I'll assume $80 for this.

3...This will be a 240 volt, 30 amp circuit (see why below).

4...Since you posted under the Intermatic T171, and since that is a 120 volt timer, that the kiln is 120 volts.

5...Unless the pergoda is fully enclosed, NEC still requires a weatherproof installation.

For starters, I don't recommend a 120 volt kiln. Most people I've known who had a kiln always seemed to want a bigger one ;-) Again, I'll do the estimate for a 240 volt, 30 amp kiln, as the price difference compared to a 120 volt circuit is about the same.

Also, I strongly recommend using 3/4 inch PVC conduit as opposed to 1/2 inch PVC or UF (direct burial) cable. 3/4 inch conduit doesn't cost much more than 1/2 conduit and will allow you to install wire up to #6. UF cable, in my opinion, is out of the question because if you ever decide that you want a larger kiln the direct buried UF cable is _not_ easily replaceable. A conduit and wire installation is about the same price as UF anyway.

Here's the breakdown (US dollars):

$ 10 - 30 amp, 2-pole circuit breaker
120 - 300 feet of #10 THWN COPPER wire (40 cents a foot)
20 - 1 bundle (100 feet) 3/4 inch PVC conduit
10 - 3/4 inch PVC elbows, fittings, straps
20 - Weatherproof box and weatherproof cover
+15 - 30 amp receptacle
______
$195
+100 - 2 hrs labor @ $50 hr. (possibly 3 hrs.)
______
$295
+80 - labor for trench
______
$375
+140 - Intermatic T172R (weatherproof) 240 volt timer
______
$515

Other considerations are that, if indeed, the circuit is 100 feet, you should consider using a #8 THWN COPPER wire to account for voltage drop (add $60, @ 60 cents a foot) Using a #10 wire at that distance may not allow the kiln to get to the desired temperature.

If you are anticipating things like lights, 120 volt receptacles, fans and such, the best way to do all that is to install a subpanel at the pergoda.

That should get you in the ball park as far as price. Of course, you can make adjustments accordingly. Remember that prices can vary greatly depending upon geographic location. Also, if you call a contractor for an estimate, _after_ they give you the price, _then_ ask how much they will knock off if you dig the trench.

A contractor price of $600 would not be unreasonable.

Hope this helps.






Electric... | Answered on Jun 02, 2010


The problem is that you need to understand that the red and black wires may not be power and return. The main red line is broken at a point and a new cable run to the light ( red + black) or (blue+ brown) this is merely the switch circuit fore that light. So if you mistake the two points it may be that what you have is red+red to your globe. ( Is that clear?) you would need to find the common black + the red to take power to the Red+black to your new ceiling rose, but breaking the now new red wire somewhere and joining in a new red_+ black that goes down to the switch


Use a power checking device as sometimes in some roses where multiple circuitsw feed fom Black and Black can be live
Please rate my help++++Thanks for using FIXYA

Electric Door... | Answered on May 29, 2010


I believe you need to get 3-way dimmer set (control and remote) to be able to dim light from two locations.
http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/page.aspx?id=16993#dimmers
Hope that helps.

Electric... | Answered on Mar 13, 2010


The pressure relief valve will be to low, or your load will be to heavy.
Kind regards Marcel van ****

Electric Power... | Answered on Feb 10, 2010


most likely yes.. sensors are inexpensive, although not so easy to change on a water heater. It is easiest to take the whole assembly burner and all out and change it on the bench.

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010


used a multi tester to locate the right terminals

Electric Door... | Answered on Jan 02, 2010


this cannot be easily answered, if the power supply is in the fixture simply run a new wire to the new switch. if the power is in the switch run a wire from the same switchbox to the new location and wirenut the wires on the switch to your new wire. remove the switch to the new location and ummy off your old switchbox.in either case the latter should be the easiest and safest way to go. always be sure to turn the power off at the panel box. and remember electrical work isnt like your typical trades bad things can happen when very quickly if you dont know what you are doing.

Electric Door... | Answered on Jan 02, 2010


The interior flood light bulbs were the new flourescent energy savers. I replaced them with incandescent and it worked with the dimmers.

Electric... | Answered on Dec 17, 2009

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