20 Most Recent Electric Circuit Breaker Kit for Furnace Questions & Answers

Assuming this is residential and your voltage is 240. #8 copper or #6 aluminum on a 40amp 2-pole breaker , I'd suggest the copper. Aluminum is cheaper but you get what you pay for. If you decide on the aluminum make sure you use a de-oxidizer such as "nolox" or your connections will burn up which could be a fire hazard.

90 amps at 220 volts 166 amps at 120 vots

lament term is relay bounce. that's one. another could be that the line side of the contact is fed by parallel lines causing something called eddie current causing an unbalanced load. you may not have all of the terminals where the wires terminate tight, that will cause heat to build up at the contact. you could be using the wrong contactor for that particular application. check the life cycles, not the amperage rating. then again, check the amperage rating for contactor, then look at the device and what are the specs for that. if it runs at a higher ampacity than the contactor will burn up every time. are there thermal overloads on the contactor. if so, what are their rating........ these in fact are all valid questions I just asked you, and I can keep going, for days. you have to give more specifics than that, otherwise anyone who knows electricity will never be able to give you an accurate diagnoses. I'm more than willing to help though. it even comes down to the manufacture who makes the contact. sometimes you want a certain name brand for a certain application.

Not likely It is probably just coincidence that the igniter failed

On newer furnaces the fan starts in a period of time factory set and is initiated by the control board. The air conditioning fan is started by the thermostat and starts right away when the stat calls for cooling. You will need a tech. familiar with this model and carrying the right parts to look it over. Does the furnace fire and then shut off in a few minutes? If so, it is most likely to be the board. Sorry. It may be pricy.

Hi - I'm an electrican and would like to help. If the wire you're trying to install on a circuit breaker doesn't fit - then something is wrong. Typically, circuits are designed around the amount of voltage and current a product requires. The voltage determines the combination of material & thickness of the insulation on the wire and the the amount of current (in amps) determines the size of the conductor or wire. The appropriate circuit protection (fuse or circuit breaker) is selected to protect the circuit from trying to deliver more current than the product requires (in the case of a fault, etc.) which would cause the wire to over heat and potentially cause a fire. So, if the product requires (for simplicity) 120 volts and 20 amps, a wire is selected with the proper insulation for 120 volts or more and conductor sized to carry no less than 20 amps. Aluminum and copper is expensive, so providing larger sizes than needed is a waste of resources and money. A #12 copper wire is suitable for this amount of amps. A circuit breaker rated for 20 amps is chosen. A 20 amp circuit breaker must be able to accept a wire capable of 20 amps - other wise it's not really a 20 amp circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers are designed to accept LARGER wires than needed - because often times circuits will need a wire that is one or two sizes larger due to the length of the circuit (how far the product is from the electrical panel).If you're seeing a circuit breaker that will not accept the wire, the circuit breaker is probably the wrong size (and if you could force the wire in it - it would probably trip instantly when turned on) or someone has made a very expensive blunder when chosing the wire type and size for the circuit. If the the latter is the case, simply connect a short length of the correct size wire to the oversized wire in an appropriate connector and secure to the circuit breaker terminal screw. otherwise, have a qualified person evaluate the situation. Be smart. Be safe.

Hi,
Please check the currents draws and check your breaker size. If your furnace always trip off, check the system for malfunction. Normally manufacturer install the breaker with specific standard to protect your furnace from damaged

There should be a disconnect or switch at the furnace, otherwise you'll have to go to the Main circuit breaker or fuse panel and hope the circuits are identified correctly and turn OFF the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse. If the panel isn't labeled, just turn OFF the single pole breakers until the furnace turns OFF.

inside the furnace door might be a push pull nobb try push or try pull [ auto- on ]

Check the draft inducer air switch ( vacuum diaphragm switch) If the switch is opening when the burner starts, you might have a blockage on air piping coming into the furnace. Also prime the condensate trap on the condensate drain from the combustion fan. Also check the gas pressure, if your gas pressure is dropping, the gas pressure switch will shut it down. If it's too high the moment it comes on could raise the pressure in the furnace dropping out the combustion fan proving switch.

most likely yes.. sensors are inexpensive, although not so easy to change on a water heater. It is easiest to take the whole assembly burner and all out and change it on the bench.

This should be 110v so you will have black wires, white wires and ground wires. The grounds wires both go to the ground bar, the whites wires both go to the nuetral bar, or can be wire nutted together, the black incoming (feed) wire goes to the buss bar that the breaker plugs into and the black going to the furnace goes into the breaker lug.

Hello, You can try re-terminating the connector with a crimp on style connector. Just make sure the wire going to the element is in good shape. If the calrod heater element has shorted out it may burn the at the connection again. If not, you have fixed it! Good luck...gary

YOU COULD REMOVE THE ELEMENTS KILLING POWER FIRST AND TAKE THEM TO THE HEATING AND COOLING SUPPLIER NEAR YOU SEE IF THEY CAN CROSS IT WITH ONE THAT WILL BOLT UP OF EQUAL WATTAGE , AS FAR AS THE 72 COLEMAN THE TECH IS MOST LIKELY CORRECT .

I am assuming you are talking about a Natural Gas or LP furnace. The blower motor is powered by a separate 120 volt circuit, so flipping the 240 volt breaker for the furnace will not shut it off. There should be a regular light switch at the furnace that will turn off the blower for servicing the unit. When you take the cover off the unit, there should be instructions on how to re-set the igniter. If it won't re-set, try shutting off the gas for a few minutes, then turn it back on and then reset. If none of this works, and you can't find the owners manual, call a service technician.

the corroded surface is causing arcing wich is inturn heating up the whole works,REPLACE WITH PROPER BREAKER AND BOX AS THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD!

NORDYNE , GOODMAN, AND NUTONE ARE ALL BUILT BY SAME MFG SO IF YOU TRY ALL THESE MAYBE YOU CAN FIND THE HELP YOU NEED

you should have a 3- conductor # 6-3 copper wire running to this 60 amp breaker @ the furnace to the panel if this is not the case you should replace this with a # 6 as of now as it is a fire hazard as it is and needs to be fixed at once , # 10 -2 wire is only good for 30 amps and a 60 amp breaker will not trip under fault condition and you could have a fire , if you need further assistance on this let me know and i will try to help

START WITH THE THERMOSTAT ,MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER COMING AND GOING BACK TO THE UNIT .COULD HAVE BAD T-STAT OR BROKEN T-STAT WIRE.

If you are not familiar with electrical wiring, I would suggest an electrician. NEVER TRUST COLORS! Most of the time, white goes with white, black with black, red with red, and bare to bare. But depending upon whether this is a 110 or 220 they could be mixed up depending upon how the feed wire is wired at the box. Hope this helps! c